Freshwater All Metal Drain Valve Replacement Parts and Pics

It'd be really cool if you could find a valve like those that had freeze protection on them. I've had my pipe freeze just a few times but it'd be nice not to have to worry about it. My older Eagle has the pipe that is mounted under the rail along the side so it's exposed. Yes, I could put some pipe insulation on it too :)
 
XJINTX - that valve has 1/4" npt threads. The eBay sourced flange I am using has a 1/8" npt female opening. You would need a fitting to adapt the two.
 
Not without a male 1/8" NPT to female 1/4" NPT adaptor fitting. The flange has a 1/8" NPT female opening and the valve you list has a 1/4" male fitting.
 
I just went to an auto parts store and bought a radiator petcock to fit into the flange. Been going great since I bought it 3 1/2 years ago. The only down side is it takes a very long time to drain. The pro to that is if some Ahole decides to open your drain valve it won't do much damage unless you're away for many hours.
 
I installed mine just as the original post showed. My only comment would be that I wish the threads on the valve were reversed so that the lever would sit on top instead of facing out. My worry is that something will bang that blue plastic lever more easily as it is currently configured. I did check and saw that the rubber door stop does keep the door from slamming into it. Other than that, it works fine and was fairly easy to install and is definitely more sturdy than the old plastic one that went into my spare parts bin. Just make sure you use something to gently pull the flexible water supply tubing out (vice grips) and set the screw tight metal band far enough back on the barbed flange to allow it to clear the camper siding when you push it back in.
 
Just finished the install of mine. For the TL;DR crowd - it was pretty straightforward and it's a beautiful bit of kit.

Overall very happy with it. The quality of the two parts is extremely good, but with shipping the cost is close to $50 for both. I also bought black anodized screws for the total black-out effect.

As mentioned, it's a bit tricky getting enough of the hose pulled out to seat the barb of the flange. I used a long needle-nosed pliers and gently worked it out. Was surprised to find a screw-type hose clamp on the hose as there is very little pressure. I reinstalled the hose clamp, figured better safe than sorry. It looked like FWC had used plumber's putty as the sealant so that's what I used.

The action of the valve is incredibly smooth, I spent a good 10 minutes just turning it on and off. Good thing the drought is over, I probably wasted 5 gallons of water.

When the valve is off, the door clears it easily. When the valve is on, the door will contact the valve if the door "stay open" latch is not used. It is possible that if the valve were on and the door was opened violently, it would hit and possibly damage the valve. I think this is low risk as the valve is off most of the time.

Some pics:

Valve 1.jpgValve 2.jpgValve 3.jpgValve 4.jpg
 
The plastic spigot looks like a cheap after thought on an otherwise top notch camper. The handle snapped off when I tried to close on in 30 degree weather and another spigot leaked. After I replaced it and did a biopsy, the plastic had been scored by sand or something. Imagine, a FWC being used where there is dust and sand! BITE THE BULLET FWC and pony up for a spigot to match the quality of your camper. Bury the five extra dollars in my $27,000.00 price tag.
 
PJorgen said:
Just finished the install of mine. For the TL;DR crowd - it was pretty straightforward and it's a beautiful bit of kit.

Overall very happy with it. The quality of the two parts is extremely good, but with shipping the cost is close to $50 for both. I also bought black anodized screws for the total black-out effect.

As mentioned, it's a bit tricky getting enough of the hose pulled out to seat the barb of the flange. I used a long needle-nosed pliers and gently worked it out. Was surprised to find a screw-type hose clamp on the hose as there is very little pressure. I reinstalled the hose clamp, figured better safe than sorry. It looked like FWC had used plumber's putty as the sealant so that's what I used.

The action of the valve is incredibly smooth, I spent a good 10 minutes just turning it on and off. Good thing the drought is over, I probably wasted 5 gallons of water.

When the valve is off, the door clears it easily. When the valve is on, the door will contact the valve if the door "stay open" latch is not used. It is possible that if the valve were on and the door was opened violently, it would hit and possibly damage the valve. I think this is low risk as the valve is off most of the time.

Some pics:

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Valve 1.jpg
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Valve 2.jpg
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Valve 3.jpg
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Valve 4.jpg
Click to expand...
May I get the source and part number or links? That is exactly what I want on mine!!! THANKS
 
John that one looks like it would be easy to get "hit" and either damaged or dump water out without us knowing. Would suck on long off grid trip ;) Guess I'll check around
 
I like the ideas in this thread and will most likely go for the flange on e-bay [expensive, but quality] and the brass valve..

As to freezing that section of the water system...if you remove the valve and replace it with a plug in winter would that less the chance of freezing the line?

Again...what is the ID of the FWC flex line inside the camper leading to that valve? 3/8"?

Phil
 
I have this flange, with a stainless valve - no issues with freezing in the winter. The tube behind it is very flexible, so there is plenty of space to expand if it does freeze. I leave the valve open when the camper is not in use.
 
rando said:
I have this flange, with a stainless valve - no issues with freezing in the winter. The tube behind it is very flexible, so there is plenty of space to expand if it does freeze. I leave the valve open when the camper is not in use.
Click to expand...

Just for reference..how low of temps was the system used in and did not freeze?

Thanks,

Phil
 
When I was getting my '76 Alaskan ready to use, I found the plastic version of that valve to have been broken so I replaced it with another plastic one just like it. I think someone slammed the tailgate of their truck on it and broke it. OK, new valve on? Check! Start to fill tank with fresh water? Check....oops, if you use much water pressure, as it fills it also shoots across the tank to the overflow hose outlet and water started appearing under the rear via that hose. OK...tried again with lower pressure, no problem!. Filled up the tank with water and some bleach and let it set a couple days. Check!

Came back to use my new outlet valve and when I opened it up, the water came out slowly at first, along with some scuz that resembled algae from the swimming pool. That cleared up in about 30-45 seconds and then a much stronger flow began to drain the tank. Check!

I refilled the tank, and while I do use that hand pump/20 gallons for many things like washing up or making coffee, etc. I carry some bottled water for straight H2O drinking only...I don't like the tap water taste nor the plastic tank taste that much.

However...I see the point of the valve sticking out where it can get broken off the same as mine does (CAMCO?) so maybe putting an in-line valve inside with a female hose fitting outside and a short length of garden hose with a male fitting on it to divert the water from getting into the truck bed would be the way to go....better yet, a RECESSED one would be the way to go!

Or, if it is an option, mount it on the SIDE and drain it that way using a short bit of hose on the valve? If it is protected that way it might be a safer place to put it if you set up your rig with or without the tailgate as a "porch".
 
I should clarify - I am sure it did freeze, but there were no ill effects from it freezing. I have used the water system in the teens (F) with this new valve. I have never tried to drain the water system at those temperatures. I did at one point buy an inline valve to put on the drain tube up stream of the external valve, but haven't gotten around to installing it.

Wallowa said:
Just for reference..how low of temps was the system used in and did not freeze?

Thanks,

Phil
Click to expand...
 
The plastic valve on our Phoenix also broke. I used a commercial grade ball valve. Ran a plastic NPT X Hose Barb 90° into the bung on the tank, brass hose barb in one end of the ball valve, garden hose X NPT adapter fitting on the other side of the ball valve.

I deliberately used a plastic fitting in the plastic tank because it has been my experience that metal NPT fittings in plastic NPT bungs just keep cold-flowing the plastic hole bigger until loose, and then it leaks so it gets tightened and the process starts over.

Just plastic tubing between the hose barb fittings, but I covered it with plumbing insulation. Partly to shield from UV, partly to lower the freezing point. The valve end sits behind the locking access door on the left-rear of the camper. To drain the tank I use our sink drain hose. Gives it a good periodic flushing as a bonus!
 
XJINTX said:
John that one looks like it would be easy to get "hit" and either damaged or dump water out without us knowing. Would suck on long off grid trip ;) Guess I'll check around
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Same thoughts, the one with the red handle looks better, but I can't look back now. To release water, the lever would have to be pull out away from the camper. May look at putting a piece of foam over it. It works great. jd
 
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