Front Bumpers, Winches and Lights-Thoughts, Opinions Experience, etc.

Now:
rhvLH1L.jpg


Bumper: I intended to buy a full winch bumper when the truck was new but instead went with a warn hidden mount same as XJINTX. For the weight and money (600CAD vs say 3000CAD) it fit the bill and I liked the more subtle oem look.

Winch: Again, intended to buy a big 15 or 16.5K winch but I guess I needed a break from spending on the truck so I'm using an old warn M10000 (thought it was a M12000 !) that I had sitting in storage for years.

Lights: Also had some old Helle 1000s from my 'wheeling days. For a time I didn't mount them because I thought they we kinda big. Then I thought, what the heck they're old skhool and sort of cool. First trip out, a globe got rock smashed. Replacements were long discontinued, did some research on newer types but ended up with a set of same brand, halogen 4000s (like craig333), prob old stock. A a pretty good quality light all round but note they are deep bodied for mounting.

Nextime:
Bumper: I might stick with a mount only but one that is in front of the bumper which would stay back in it's orig position. Really like the idea of a front and rear hitch mount and storing the unit inside but I'd need a much lighter rig or be physically much stronger.

Winch: That I was able to put a 20,25 yo winch back into service, get a parts schematic and support from the mfr and be able to easily disassemble to r and r the unit says a lot to me about a Warn product. If but for the $$ new ??... Wouldn't buy the cheapest winch, would look a Comeup, Superwinch or something similar (suggest researching, not recommending those brands)

Lights: Out of caution I often eschew the current trend (missed the whole tiny HID thing) but I think right now, for my use, I'd look at LED light bars. Again would need to research but I like that they can be mounted in the grill or somewhere "clean" and almost out of sight.

Thoughts (blowing smoke):
Just want to reiterate a few points made by others. The hidden mount + winch (with synthetic) was only 150#. I had hoped the 6000# snowplow fr springs would be adequate. Nope, like Mighty Dodge Ram I had to do some suspension work and it took two tries. That was an extra cost.

As mentioned I replaced the beat up wire cable with synthetic (for the wt savings and just to try) also bought a synthetic extension, pulley for the synthetic, some new straps etc. That was extra cost. And, I get to carry all that stuff and wt around with me. Not a complaint mind you, because a winch is a want for me. I just think these extra things are worth repeating (and for the record, with this truck have used used the winch once for a stuck)

By choice I don't often drive at night. Nowadays I find many oem headlamps are super bright on all kinds of vehicles (from bicycles to OTR trucks) and the "dip your hi beams" seem to be a quaint thing of the past. It's comforting to have some kind of firepower.
 
I have had Warn Winch for years. I have only pulled myself out a handful of times and pulled others out lots of times. It usually gets used to pull moose out of the field after a successful day. A winch for me is piece of mind.

I use the front receiver mount on my truck and the winch goes behind the front seat out of the elements. Its always nice clean - I can leave it at home when I don't need it. I also use that hitch receiver for other stuff cargo racks etc. This works for me. I do a significant amount of off pavement driving but go out of my way to not get stuck. I will probably do the same for my next truck.

From my point of view I use the winch maybe once every 3-4 years - it does not warrant all the weight up front and possibly more expense of the lights.

There is a real argument for me to go without the winch and carry maxtrax or something similar.

The winch has saved me a couple of times - and once I really needed it I left it at home.
 
I would echo what a several others have said - do you really need a bumper/winch or is it just part of the 'package'? As you mentioned, you have gotten along fine without one for years. While I don't know what vehicle you are coming from, I am going to guess you will do less serious four wheel driving with 2000lbs of camper and gear on the back of your truck than you did previously, meaning even less need for a winch. My feeling is that a bumper/winch is a LOT of extra weight for something that is going to be rarely if ever used. Caveat: my opinions are based on the Rockies and Southwest where mud is rarely an issue and if it is an issue there is rarely anything to anchor a winch to anyway. The max trax (or clones) that you already have are a much more useful recovery tool than a winch would be.

Extra lighting on the other hand seems like a much better weight/money to usefulness proposition than a bumper. We have found that with our much extended camping season and short winter days that we are often driving and looking for camp in the dark, when even cheap and dirty lights can really help. I am sure there is a way to mount lights without a bumper. If you can stomach the bro-dozer look you could even think about mounting low profile lights between the cabover and roof of your truck.
 
Keep in mind that lights mounted up cab roof high should be mocked up and tested first. Not uncommon for them to reflect off the hood and blind you.
 
ntsqd said:
Keep in mind that lights mounted up cab roof high should be mocked up and tested first. Not uncommon for them to reflect off the hood and blind you.
Agreed. This is not really an option I would go for - but that nice flat mounting surface on the bottom of the cab over would make mounting soooo easy.
 
I would like to add a few thoughts, some of which are duplicates of those in previous posts.

I also recommend staying away from receiver-mounted winches for the reason mentioned previously: Receiver mounts are designed for pulling a trailer, not winching. They might be adequately strong for a straight-line pull, but off-angle pulls can be problematic—I’ve watched a receiver tube flex noticeably sideways under a load from a receiver-mounted winch. Plus there is the safety factor in storing the winch in the vehicle when not in use. That is a hell of a lot of potential kinetic energy waiting to assert itself in the event of a crash.

Please eschew hidden winch mounts if at all possible! Your winch should be visually and manually accessible. Correct re-spooling of the line is vital to proper winch function, and the ability to monitor and correct issues (such as gaps, or line bunching up on one side) is equally vital.

Regarding quality: You might not need your winch often, but when you do you’ll probably really need it. If price is an issue I suggest buying a used U.S.-made Warn rather than a new Chinese-made knockoff. Whatever you buy, opt for synthetic line, really the only sensible choice these days.

Early LED driving lamps showed poor beam patterns and violet fringing. Current versions are vastly better. The ARB Intensity lamps we have on our Land Cruiser are absolutely brilliant, and we didn’t second-guess the price after a single unavoidable night drive on a highway in kangaroo country in South Australia.
 
JHanson I have Warns hidden winch bumper on my Superduty and an ARB on my Jeep. They are almost identical in access not sure what you mean? Maybe some homemade hidden winch mount does not allow access?
 
The line on my Jeeps winch is due for replacement. The synthetic line is worn in a couple spots and shows some signs of uv degradation. I've been thinking of going back to steel. No argument the synthetics are safer and easier to use but I cant afford to replace my winch line every couple years. Are the new synthetics a significant upgrade over the older ones? Mine is probably five years old by now.
 
XJINTX said:
JHanson I have Warns hidden winch bumper on my Superduty and an ARB on my Jeep. They are almost identical in access not sure what you mean? Maybe some homemade hidden winch mount does not allow access?
XJINTX, what I am referring to is adequate visual and manual access to the line on the drum, to ensure it is spooling in even and tight layers and rows when you have completed a recovery, and to allow you to get to the line to correct problems. The 8274 on my FJ40 has superb access:
14660478500_0219834e9b_c.jpg


But a lot of hidden mounts do not.
 
craig333 said:
The line on my Jeeps winch is due for replacement. The synthetic line is worn in a couple spots and shows some signs of uv degradation. I've been thinking of going back to steel. No argument the synthetics are safer and easier to use but I cant afford to replace my winch line every couple years. Are the new synthetics a significant upgrade over the older ones? Mine is probably five years old by now.
Craig, it depends on what you mean by "wear." Some fraying and fuzzing is perfectly normal and will minimally affect strength. A fellow I know who trains with his Superwinch Husky has a synthetic line so fuzzed you can hardly make out the braid, but it still functions.

Current synthetic lines are highly resistant to UV degradation. Not sure about a five-year-old line, but I live in Arizona and don't worry about mine.
 
The better synthetic lines come with an abrasion guard long enough that it covers the full top layer of line on the drum. That helps with shielding the line from UV.
 
Here is an example of a winch bumper that provides virtually zero visual or manual access to the winch. Not a good design in my opinion, however stylish and well-built otherwise it may be. Additionally, many current bumpers employ this canted fairlead, which means that the line is almost always running over it in tension and thus experiencing friction during a pull.

36345453946_86e7230193_c.jpg
 
I have an Aluminess front (and rear) bumper with a Warn 10,000lbs winch and PIAA fogs. Really love itIMG_0170.JPG
 
JHanson I TOTALLY agree on that type bumper that hides the winch. I'm not even sure how he can access the freespool? I was thinking you were referring to Warns Hidden winch bumper. Mine has full access to the winch. Just not as obvious as some. It merely keeps the stock front bumper moving it forward. Has plastic fascia to keep the aesthetics of the stock look.
 
Great discussion and since I am new to power winches it helps.

I just bought a Warn 8S Multi Mount tray for use in my front [Curt] and back [OEM] receivers...weight of 8S with tray is 100lbs..on '05 Tundra Access Cab SR5 with winter and towing packages winch is snug against OEM front bumper and top of winch is level with upper edge of bumper [does not block air to motor]..the 100 lbs in front of bumper was a worry, time will tell, but it only dropped the front 1/2" or less...angled deflection or deformation of the receivers is of course a concern and I will bear that in mind when rigging prior to pulling.

It will wear a cover, primarily to keep grit off the unit and synthetic line...never thought of UV.

We are off road folks and conservative in our route selection-most of the time- but we also travel solo so self-recovery/rescue is a must if at all possible...front and back pulling also mandatory and the tray/winch with two receivers accomplishes that.

Will we ever 'need' the winch? Never know. Can't plan for all contingencies but will do my best to prepare for those that I reasonably can.

Thanks again for the discussion.

Phil
 
Follow up question: When installing a rear bumper connector/plug for a Warn winch did anyone build their own 20 foot cables from and to the battery? Can't tell if it is supposed to be "2 gauge" or "2/0 gauge". Where did you source the cables and connector?

The Warn kit is way expensive and includes a solenoid switch that I do not want....they don't just sell the cables.

Thanks for any info.

Phil
 
For an 8k winch over distance of 20 feet I think 2 ga. is way too small. It is what Warn supplies on the winch itself, but look at how short those cables are. I'm more than sure they're fine at that short length.

2/0 is more appropriate for the amps and the length. At max pull that winch draws 413 amps! Over a total circuit length of 40 feet (out and back) using Ancor Marine's CM = (10.75 * A * D)/(10% * 12 VDC) formula set of a 10% Voltage Drop I get a CM requirement of 147,991 2/0 has a CM of 133,000, that's likely close enough.
 
ntsqd said:
For an 8k winch over distance of 20 feet I think 2 ga. is way too small. It is what Warn supplies on the winch itself, but look at how short those cables are. I'm more than sure they're fine at that short length.

2/0 is more appropriate for the amps and the length. At max pull that winch draws 413 amps! Over a total circuit length of 40 feet (out and back) using Ancor Marine's CM = (10.75 * A * D)/(10% * 12 VDC) formula set of a 10% Voltage Drop I get a CM requirement of 147,991 2/0 has a CM of 133,000, that's likely close enough.

Wow! Warn said the 20 foot cables in their 'rear connector kit' were 2 gauge! I specifically asked them if they were "2 or 2/0 gauge"
...will call them tomorrow...thanks for the information..my friend on his Tacoma used a "1 gauge" cable and grounded to frame which Warn said was a no-no and might burn out motor [using frame]. As this point I am going to make up my own set of cables for the rear plug and without the "Interrupter" switch they use in their 'kit'.

Phil

Email answer from Warn:

"[SIZE=11pt]Phil,[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]The 32963 kit will come with 2 gauge cable which is sufficient enough for that application. It will also contain a “Power Interrupt” kit as well so you don’t have 20ft of live wire running under the truck.[/SIZE]


[SIZE=11pt]Regards,"[/SIZE]
 
Back
Top Bottom