FWC Floor Replacement

[Dusty Roads]

Hi all! Long time lurker, now member. Just spent most of the morning looking at all of the FWC rebuilds and dreaming. They don't come up for sale very often in the upper Midwest. I am looking at an older (probably mid 80s) FWC. It has the jalousie windows, and I think the aluminum frame. The current owner tells me that the "floor is soft" just under the door. My question is how hard is it to replace the floor. Previous owner has the interior out already as part of narrowing the camper to fit late model trucks. Also, how is the frame attached to the floor? Any thoughts on just replacing the part that is soft?

Thanks for any help and insight!

Dusty.

 

[ski3pin]

The plywood floor pack - you can get a good idea of what I'm referring to by looking at our camper build -

Building our new camper

is screwed to the aluminum frame. If the camper interior is empty, its not that hard to replace the entire floor pack, although not something to be taken lightly. I'm surprised if the camper was narrowed, a soft spot (rot) was left. If I was contemplating a project of rebuilding an older camper, I would completely replace the floor pack. But, that might just be me.

 

[Dusty Roads]

Thanks Ski! I think you are right about replacing the entire floor pack. However, time does not allow for that now. Maybe next winter when I have time. I think the PO just got ahead of himself and didn't notice the soft spot until he was doing the narrowing project. But what the heck, for $100, I'll play!

I wonder if for the next year or so I can just set the camper on another sheet of plywood in my truck? I know, temporary, but...

 

[Dusty Roads]

Well...it followed me home! "It" being the above referenced Grandby. I ended up borrowing an OBS Form from a friend to get it. I think it is older than mid-80's. The PO told me the floor had some soft spots. When I got a chance to look at it... he wasn't kidding! There is a hole about 10" long by 3-4" wide just to the left of the door, and the door frame is broken at the bottom. Not too concerned about the door frame as I have a friend that can weld it for me. The floor pack has to be replaced or at least major work so the narrowing process can be completed (turns out the PO only did one side) and the hole needs to be repaired. Overall, I think a complete new floor pack is in order.

My first question (bear with me there WILL be more) is what depth to make the new floor pack? The original is 20". My truck (2011 Dodge 2500) is 24" deep, since I have a soft roll up cover with a 1" lip on the sides. If I build it back to the stock depth, I will have to make a riser. Not a problem. But, I am going to build a new floor pack. Anybody see any problem with making the new floor pack
deep enough to not need a riser in the bed? The only problem I can think of is that the door will either need to be lowered or there will be a "step over" at the threshold. I don't see that as a problem? Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks in advance
Dusty

 

[deethe]

just a new idea if you have a hot water heater; have you considered installing a hydronic heating system with the new floorpack?

 

[Dusty Roads]

Deethe: I had really no thought about a hydronic system for a variety or reasons. If you look at some of the Alaskan builds on here (I think it was here) there is a guy that bought a used Alaskan with hydronic heat. From what I can tell, it was a major PIA and not very efficient.

My plans are for a simple hunting and fishing camper. Right now, heat will likely be via Buddy heater. I have the floor pack loose on 3 sides, (still need to do the front), all interior out, and windows and doors removed after about 6 hours. Ready to start building the new floor pack this week.

I ran into a couple interesting things. First, apparently from the factory, this camper had inverted "eye bolts", through the camper frame on the wing. I say from the factory because the interior wood and the siding showed no signs of being removed, so I don't think this was an owner modification. There was one eye bolt each under the drivers side small window and the propane tank locker. Anyone seen this? I thought the FWC's of this vintage were bolted thought the floor.

Also, it looks like somewhere in this camper's life, the board along the top of the base that helps support the cab-over portion of the camper went missing. The passenger side is there and intact, but ends just short of the cabover area. Does this board go all the way to the curved part of the front of the cabover area?

Thanks in advance

Dusty

 

[deethe]

Dusty Roads,

thanks for the tip on the Alaskan Camper forum hydronic heating thread

-deethe

 

[marty]

Dusty Roads,
Those eyes might have been for shipping the camper when it was new. They should have small eyes. The board that is missing that helps with the shear strength should stop about 8 inches from the front and it was at that time red oak. 5/8 " plywood will be fine to use.

 

[Dusty Roads]

Sorry, been away from the 'puter for the weekend.

Deethe: No problem! Hope it works out for you.

Marty: Thanks again!. The eye bolts were large, perhaps a 1" eye, and drilled through the camper frame. Also, thanks again for the tip on the plywood. Another question.....These boards just sit in the C channel. If they are to help with the shear strength of the cabover, is there any problem with bolting through the board and the side of the camper? I am thinking about extending the cabover bed and doing away with the hinged part of the cabover bed. It would be nice to bolt the rails for the bed to these boards.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Dusty