FWC Granby Edition in a Tundra with 6.6 truck bed

Great pics guys.Thx for adding them to the conversation. In the last pic the set up actually looks better than I would have thought !!

Looking at the overhang for sure I'd want some kind of support underneath, be it a tailgate, 2x4s or angle iron that Chrish mentioned. Not only for the camper but also for the camper floor to help with the weight of people stepping in and out.

Clearly for the OPs idea there will be good amount of wt behind the rear axle relative to payload and wheelbase. That won't matter sitting in the driveway and might not be too bad driving around on pavement. My concern would be for rougher roads where the suspension is being loaded and unloaded by the irregular surface. And where those roads might be in relation to 'civilisation', if something were to break. So, again, I think intended use should be considered.

Any thoughts on this ?
 
smlobx said:
I was just looking on the FWC website and every picture of the Grandby was on a 3/4 ton or larger truck with an 8' bed...

Food for thought....
I wouldn't use the pictures as any type of representation of requirements ...regular cab 1/2 tond are the least popular trucks sold to the public and most go to fleet and rental....but regular cab hd trucks are sold in reasonable numbers to the public...
 
Cayuse said:
Here are a couple pics... My Grandby is a 2002 with a couch batteries are at the front, 2x100W solar on top. Tows just fine, both my small trailer and my roommate's travel trailer which I initially picked up in Twin Falls, ID and delivered to Las Vegas.

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And stairs work well for getting in and out of the camper...

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Looks like a near perfect fit cayuse...
 
I'd like to add another variable to the equation: What if the Grandby is a flatbed edition, with nothing much behind the wheels except the dining area? Seems like the weight distribution would be fine then.
 
Also, make sure that the tailgate being down does not prevent you from lowering the spare tire. Not sure how Toyota does it, but a lot of trucks require that the tailgate is not down so that you can access the spare tire winch system to raise and lower it. I've heard this mentioned several times on "FWC with tailgate" threads.
 
FWIW we have a 2016 Grandby FDSC on a Dodge 2500 Quad Cab with 6'3" bed. The batteries are LifeLine 6 v golf cart batteries that weigh 63# each that are located in the driver's side rear of the camper (over the tailgate). We have Timbrens on all four corners, a 65# kayak up top, and we pull a small utility off-road trailer (Ruger 6') behind with and extension on the hitch and a couple hundred lbs of tongue weight.

Last year, down in Baja, I took a corner a little too fast and ended up over correcting and managed to drop the right front tire off the edge of the pavment (there was no shoulder). I was able to control the truck after several back and forths across the road and bring it to a stop. The little trailer was not so lucky, it took a wild ride of it's own but was still attached to the truck thanks to the articulating off-road hitch we have. The trailer had emptied almost all of it's contents but landed upright on it's wheels. We loaded up almost every thing we could salvage and headed home. The next day I discovered the trailer chains were wrapped around 360 degrees indicating the trailer had rolled completely.

Up to this point I had wondered how the truck would perform in an emergency situation with that camper sticking out behind. The truck did surprisingly well as we did not end up losing both the truck and the camper as I had imagined we would. We did have the tailgate on the truck and a platform made of 2 x 3's laying flat to support the camper floor. As I said, the trailer was another story, it had a mind of it's own. BTW, I also have a winch, highlift jack and pull pal on the front to add weight up front to help balance the load.
 
Vic Harder said:
I'd like to add another variable to the equation: What if the Grandby is a flatbed edition, with nothing much behind the wheels except the dining area? Seems like the weight distribution would be fine then.
I don't see cog on FWC's site but according to this ...cog measured back from front wall is...
Hawk 32"
Granby 43
Granby FB 36

both the Fleet and Hawk FB mentioned in post #6 are 32"

guessing the OP's truck is ~35" front box to axle.

A long(er) flat deck might change the numbers a bit.

FB spec heavier for base weight but obviously would want to compare with desired options included.

I see what tho OP means about the Granby weighing about the same as the Hawk. I figure the Woolridge Ed. (incls bigger fridge, furnace, HW tank, side awning, 2nd batt etc) would add at least 250# to those base numbers.
---

Funny about the size trucks for these campers. In the 21yrs I've been spotting other FWCs out and about, I'd say the most common has been the Ford 150, followed by the Tacoma. This observation being for all FWC models. I've always thought of the brand as a light weight solution most suited to lighter duty trucks, with the Taco combo being the best looking and 'representing' the brand best.
---

camper rich, good story. I hate that "back and forth across the road". Downright scary. Glad you pulled it back from disaster.
Well done !
 
Couple of add ons...ours is a '05 AC Tundra SR5 w/'16 Hawk...side dinette...correct on 20 gal water tank [and 6 gal hot water] and 2 AGM batteries at front of Hawk..that is a lot of weight...but forward in truck bed..

Next the tail gate is damn heavy..[75lbs?] and down to support the camper that weight gets further aft of rear axle..with Hawk and no tail gate I shaved off that extra weight.

Some even hang fuel cans or other items on rear of camper...more weight aft of CG..

Lastly...however while I love our Tundra/Hawk combo, I have no illusions that it is anything but a 1/2 ton truck....it is not, nor can it be configured into a 3/4 ton truck..we have Firestone air bags and Heliweg rear anti-sway bar...still a 1/2 ton...

Just me...but I always strive for weight near CG and low...not afraid to 'load it up" but slow down off [most of our use is off road] and on road mostly due to braking distance increase with extra weight; but also to go easy on vehicle and camper..and unless trailer has brakes, a trailer pushing you during deceleration can get scary...

Personally, I would not go the larger FWC Grandby in a Tundra but would stick with the perfect fit of a Hawk...sometimes ya just gotta say enough is enough... :D

Phil
 
Andy Douglass said:
Also, make sure that the tailgate being down does not prevent you from lowering the spare tire. Not sure how Toyota does it, but a lot of trucks require that the tailgate is not down so that you can access the spare tire winch system to raise and lower it. I've heard this mentioned several times on "FWC with tailgate" threads.
Yes good point, I did try it out and could not get the rod in towards the tire to let it down, so i made the hole bigger, and it now works with the tailgate down, thanks for suggesting it may be a problem, because it sure was, all fixed now!!!
 
Wallowa said:
Couple of add ons...ours is a '05 AC Tundra SR5 w/'16 Hawk...side dinette...correct on 20 gal water tank [and 6 gal hot water] and 2 AGM batteries at front of Hawk..that is a lot of weight...but forward in truck bed..

Next the tail gate is damn heavy..[75lbs?] and down to support the camper that weight gets further aft of rear axle..with Hawk and no tail gate I shaved off that extra weight.

Some even hang fuel cans or other items on rear of camper...more weight aft of CG..

Lastly...however while I love our Tundra/Hawk combo, I have no illusions that it is anything but a 1/2 ton truck....it is not, nor can it be configured into a 3/4 ton truck..we have Firestone air bags and Heliweg rear anti-sway bar...still a 1/2 ton...

Just me...but I always strive for weight near CG and low...not afraid to 'load it up" but slow down off [most of our use is off road] and on road mostly due to braking distance increase with extra weight; but also to go easy on vehicle and camper..and unless trailer has brakes, a trailer pushing you during deceleration can get scary...

Personally, I would not go the larger FWC Grandby in a Tundra but would stick with the perfect fit of a Hawk...sometimes ya just gotta say enough is enough... :D

Phil
Phil, appreciate the feedback, I have gotten opposite feedback from others, that have a Grandby in their 6.6 bed Tundra and have no issues, some leave the tailgate down, and it works fine, others remove the tailgate and have no issues, FWC and the dealer I purchased from say to leave the tailgate on and down, so I am doing that. If we remove the jacks we will be 100 LBS lighter than we were with the Hawk (they both weight about the same), so at 100LBS lighter, and we were fine with the Hawk at 2200 fully loaded, we should be fine with the Grandby at 2100 LBS, we may remove the rear seats of the truck to have more back seat storage as well, and remove another 50 LBS or so, so my way of thinking (not always correct I admit) I should be more than fine, the COG is not a concern I am told by the dealer and FWC (with my setup)
 
I bought my new Grandby from Rocky Mountain FWC, picking it up in mid November, almost a fully loaded unit, many have a Grandby on a Tundra DC, some with the tailgate down and some with the tailgate removed, I am going with the tailgate on and down for support. I removed the rear seats in my Tundra (70 LBS or so), I will also store the 4 jacks at RMFWC until I return to Canada, that is another 100 LBS, I will be lighter than I was last year with my FWC Hawk model, I left the 4 jacks on for 4 months, plus the rear seats in the truck, from talking to many owners, all said I will be fine. I have 2 extra leaf springs installed at Deaver Springs in Santa Ana (dangerous area at night), airbags, sway bar, and General Grabber X3 10 ply "E" rated tires.
 
otto, congrats on the new camper.

Yeah, rear seats and the tailgate are about the only things I've come up with to reduce vehicle wt, plus maybe the front air defector and removing a leaf spring or two, vehicle depending. Every other vehicle mod adds it: tires, suspension, storage structures, you name it.

I'm familiar with driving 700 and more over, tho on a different chassis with different payload and overhang vs wheelbase ratios. Prob more important I think is how and on what type road the is rig is being driven and the driver's own confidence from risk assessments.

I've driven some off highway out your way, from Points North to the Big Muddy but never in Mexico, where you're headed. I didn't realise you were going to be diving right into a long trip. I sincerely hope it goes well but don't doubt you will get though it ok, given your current deliberation and previous experience.

Around now would be a good time to get another base line wt on the empty truck.

When you return, I think the readership would be interested in another report on just how much that platform can take and over what kinds of roads.

Best of luck with the adventure and enjoy your time away from the cold GWN !

~David
 
We have some Baja friends who have a 2000 Tundra that they had removed the bed from and made an alluminum flatbed to carry a fiberglass camper on. It was extened out a couple of feet beyond the original bed and bumper that they removed and they are living in it full time ovelanding in Baja. Last year while decending the dirt road into Agua Verde they broke their frame on both sides. I wish I could tell you the weight involved but I don't know. What I do know is that they were loaded with extra jugs of water like we all are when going in there. They had it repaired in Loreto, but I don't know how that has held up. I only post this to let you know that there are limits.
 
Vic Harder said:
I'd like to add another variable to the equation: What if the Grandby is a flatbed edition, with nothing much behind the wheels except the dining area? Seems like the weight distribution would be fine then.
I'm really curious about this too..... I would love to do the setup below...

1st post here… have been reading many threads and doing searches for a while.

Have owned two travel trailers in the past, now looking to not tow.

Sometimes I go out solo, or with a pal, but often with the three of us. May want to bring a 4th person occasionally.

Current plan is: custom order (from Ford) a 2019 or 2020 Ford F150 * 4X4 * SuperCrew (with maxed out cargo carrying capacity) and keep the pop up truck camper in it always. I have no need for a pickup other than to haul a truck camper.

Would likely get Ford to put on LT245/70 R17E BSW all-terrain tires at the factory to save hassle. I believe this is possible.

I like the 3.5L V6 EcoBoost however i read that under load, it’s MPG drops a lot, but if I get the 5.0L Ti-VCT V8 Engine it hardly drops in MPG under load, so it works out better to have the 5.0 V8 for a truck that will always be hauling a big load.

Due to storage / height limitations, i am pretty sure we have to get a pop up.

My wife and our ‘tween’ daughter love camping, and I like the large amount of storage in the F150 SuperCrew rear seating area, and the flexible 66/33% flip up seats there for storing camping stuff if need be.

I dont want to move to an F250 - the F150 drives significantly better to me and I’m willing to get airbags, suspension upgrades / whatever it takes to make it ride well. Also the F-250 is going to be too big for my better half to approve. She would not want to drive it.

In a perfect world I’d get the flat bed (I love how a side entry and rear dinette would have a better traffic flow with three people, in my mind)

and would love the extra storage areas.

and on the flat bed Grandby or Hawk I could get the indoor shower option (curtain, floor drain) and this would be very handy as we like to 4 season camp, all over, and nothing like a very quick, occasional shower to freshen up! :)

but various reasons …. may have to get the standard drop in design.

So I have the same questions being discussed on this thread.... :)

On this truck, with a 6.5’ bed, am I crazy to put a Grandby?

or much much better to stick to the Hawk?

3.5 Eco Boost or 5.0 V8?

How hard is it to install a flat bed? How much do they cost, approx?

Would it be best to order the Ford F150 as it comes, and somehow store the truck bed in case i ever wanted to switch it back to being a pickup? (this sounds like a pain)

or order the F150 as a “no bed” order - bare chassis?

In that case - where do the tail lights, backup camera, etc all go? :-/

Thanks

John
 
The only person I know with a Grandby on a short bed F150 says he wishes he would have gone with an 8’ bed, and F250/F350.

Since I’m old and lazy, I have a Ford dealer on the Oregon coast service my trucks. When I was thinking about a F150, I asked the service manager and a couple of the techs about choice of engine. All said they would go with the 5.0, although they also said there were no significant issues with the Eco Boost. My son-in-law has the 3.5 Eco boost in his, and while he loves it, he’s says it’s either Eco or Boost. In other words, mileage drops with a load or more aggressive driving.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
The only person I know with a Grandby on a short bed F150 says he wishes he would have gone with an 8’ bed, and F250/F350.

Since I’m old and lazy, I have a Ford dealer on the Oregon coast service my trucks. When I was thinking about a F150, I asked the service manager and a couple of the techs about choice of engine. All said they would go with the 5.0, although they also said there were no significant issues with the Eco Boost. My son-in-law has the 3.5 Eco boost in his, and while he loves it, he’s says it’s either Eco or Boost. In other words, mileage drops with a load or more aggressive driving.
Thanks - very helpful.

Yeah I had heard exactly that about the Eco Boost.... and as the FWC would be on the back the whole time.... mileage would drop.

Is the 5.0 V8 a tried and true engine?

The only good thing about going with the F150 SuperCrew is that there is a LOT of space in the 2nd row, and with the split rear seat - it would be very easy to load some stuff (bulky) into the space and still have lots of room for our daughter.

I'd secure it somehow with a net or something. :)

john
 
Welcome LosAngeles !

LosAngeles said:
Would likely get Ford to put on LT245/70 R17E BSW all-terrain tires at the factory to save hassle. I believe this is possible.

I just plowed thru the F150 order guide and specs. My advice is to find a competent sales person to order your vehicle for the best configuration result. I'd want the highest weight ratings and would order the tires above, or the 18" LTs to ensure the higher rated rear axle even if I was going to swap the tires out on delivery.

I dont want to move to an F250 - the F150 drives significantly better to me and I’m willing to get airbags, suspension upgrades / whatever it takes to make it ride well. Also the F-250 is going to be too big for my better half to approve. She would not want to drive it.

Understood. Just one point about the ride, it really should be compared when loaded. The F250 has heavier springs because of higher curb weight and vehicle load design. There may be an inverse effect to ride quality when heavily loading a F150 vs F2/350. You are prepared for the former, fair enough, am just mentioning the later, fwiw.

How hard is it to install a flat bed? How much do they cost, approx?
Varies, I'm gonna say 5-10K without searching online. That would be with under deck boxes. If you're thinking camper slide in model to save $ over the FB model, much of the savings will prob be spent on the flat deck itself, if you are thinking one without the other ...

Would it be best to order the Ford F150 as it comes, and somehow store the truck bed in case i ever wanted to switch it back to being a pickup? (this sounds like a pain)

Agreed, good for resale if reusing flatbed but a pain if no easy storage avail.

or order the F150 as a “no bed” order - bare chassis?

Didn't see box delete as an option in the F150 literature I looked thru. Think you'd need at least an F250 long box before that becomes a factory option.

In that case - where do the tail lights, backup camera, etc all go? :-/

Good question. With factory bed delete the tail lights will be attached to the frame to meet DOT requirements (often just temporarily until body is attached). The flatbed or bumper would likely need to incorporate tail lights. For a permanent mount these could also be mounted on camper rear wall and be more visible.
 
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