Grandby Wiring

[SnowMountain]

I need to wire a plug for the bed of my pick up truck and or an inverter for my camper. I use this camper in very cold temps and need the heater to work all night long. I have a generator but no way to connect it to the camper. I have 20 feet of old jumper cable would this work the battery to battery connection (4 gauge)? Thanks

 

[K7MDL]

Need to know more details, your description of what your needs are a bit confusing.

Where and what type of heater, electrical ratings for it, same for the inverter, and are you trying to run it from the camper or the truck, and do you have an existing connection between the truck and camper, and what is that?

Other than running larger wire for faster recharge speed, running bigger wire to run bigger loads like a heater and inverter off your truck starting battery is a recipe for getting stranded with a dead battery.

A generator connection to your camper power system is better if you are not using propane. You can simply connect the generator 120VAC output to the camper shore power connection the built in 30A DC charger/power supply should take care of most situations. Inverters draw a lot of power and involve significant losses. Need details to say much more though.

 

[SnowMountain]

Thanks. The shore power only runs 1 outlet on the countertop. I was able to connect plug from camper to the ac output on my generator to keep heater running after battery died. So I guess I need some way to connect shore power on camper to the battery so when connected to generator lights and heater work. Hope the pictures help I'm a carpenter not a sparky so this is a foreign language to me.

 

[K7MDL]

Most likely you have a 30A DC charger built in to your camper that runs off of shore power (120VAC). Since you were able to run the heater off the battery, then after it died just plugin shore power with no other changes and continue running your heater, then that would confirm you have the 30A charger. It is located behind the cabinet face usually just to the right of the refrigerator location. So all you need to do is run the camper off shore power from the start, this should keep your battery charged. I do not see you need to do anything unless your heater draws more than the power supply can put out (30A DC at 12V).

I assume you are using the standard propane built-in furnace? If not, can you pass along what the heater nameplate says? Need to know what voltage and current it needs.

 

[PaulT]

You didn't mention age of camper, so If you have the Iota charger, it may not have the IQ4 smart charger adapter. Without that, the Iota is just a power supply/float charger. Fortunately, the IQ4 is available for under $25 and plugs into the Iota. At that point, anytime you have shore power from your generator or from a hook up, it will recharge and safely keep the battery topped off.

One source is http://www.amazon.com/IOTA-Engineering-IQ4-Smart-Charger/dp/B0030G7ZHM

Photos of the battery area might be useful.

Paul

 

[SnowMountain]

I think the Grandby is a 91. I do not have the Iota charger. That looks like something I need to add. The RV dealers around my area where no help so looks like I'll be doing the install. Are these easy to add to an old system? Here are some more pics of what I have.
Really appreciate the help!

 

[DesertDave]

Your camper is like my old one was. No battery charger of any kind. If you plug 110V into the exterior, it powers the internal 110V plug only. All 12V power comes from batteries. No conversion of 110V to 12V.

If you wish to charge your battery you will need to power it from the 110V circuit, via a battery charger of some kind.. Or you could get fancy and install a unit like the posters above mentioned, like the Iota, which is both a 12V battery charger and a 12V power supply. Wired correctly, it will power all the 12V circuits when it is plugged into live 110V power.

You have unlimited options, I suppose, but could get by with just a battery charger - something simple that you can wire yourself.

 

[PaulT]

The first thing I would do is to get the battery into a battery box with lid. With exposed battery terminals, a screwdriver, wrench, or other metal object could short across the battery terminals and cause a fire.

Total up your expected loads and decide if a battery charger or an Iota power supply/smart charger would best meet your needs. You could always start with an automotive battery charger like DesertDave suggested, and go to an Iota type later if it would better meet your needs or go to a solar panel system.

Paul

 

[wuck]

Paul, I think that big white box in post #3 is a battery box, it looks to have vent on it.

SnowMountain,

I didn't think my '04 Hawk had an Iota converter in it either, but digging around in the cabinets I found it, also discovering a blown output fuse. That said, with a 15 amp service (that outside connection) I doubt you have one. Follow those big wires from the battery, see if they are connected anywhere else beside the fuse panel. Another thing to look for is an AC breaker panel, there will usually be a separate breaker for an Iota.

On the DC truck connection, you can certainly use the big wire you have, make sure to fuse it properly on the truck end - typically a 30 amp automatic breaker. Somewhere in the circuit you'll also need a battery separator or automatic charge relay to ensure you have a charged battery to start your truck. This can be mounted under the hood, or in the camper.

I would recommend a large fuse added near the battery, preferably within a few inches of the + terminal.

With 6 DC fuses pictured it looks to have the normal loads - Lights (In/Out), Smoke/LPG detector, Heater, Cig lighter, Battery & Water level monitor. It does appear from the external vents that you have a 3-way refrigerator though?

 

[PaulT]

Wuck,

On second look, I believe you're correct about the battery box with vent.

Paul

 

[SnowMountain]

Desert Dave hit the nail on the head. I will be ordering an IOTA. Could not find any diagrams on installation but it looks pretty straight forward. Any advice on installation? I think it would fit nice next to the battery box. I got two young boys chomping at the bit to go camping so I better get after it. Thanks for the help.

 

[PaulT]

Be sure to specify the Iota with either the internal IQ4 or the IQ4 module. Otherwise, you are buying a 13.5 volt DC power supply rather than a smart battery charger/DC power supply.

Paul