How do you keep your batteries charged when......

Old Crow said:
Several other items to add in here.... (it's never easy, is it?)


1. The Cooked batteries thread gives me pause on the subject of leaving a charger connected full-time. (I've pasted in a copy of the photo from that thread showing the scorch-mark on the floor of the battery compartment.)

(click to enlarge)
attachicon.gif
BurnedBatteryCompartment.JPG

Anyone contemplating leaving the charger on full-time may want to look into the reasons for cooked batteries. It's typically blamed on a charger malfunction, a battery short, failing to maintain water level or mismatching battery ages and characteristics in paralleled batteries.

2. I know that one of my chargers loses its settings during a power outage... including the setting that tells the charger its connected to an AGM battery. And that silly charger runs its fan full time, whether charging or not. I don't think those issues apply to a DLS-30 but may to owners thinking of leaving another charger on full time.

3. The operating range of a DLS-30 is 0C to 40C. What does it do below 0C? Do owners in cold areas need to take precautions? Also, I don't believe the DLS-30 has temperature compensation so voltages applied may not be optimum. (But is it nevertheless better than not charging?)

4. I have a Lifeline battery in the Hawk so thought I'd take a look in the Lifeline Technical Manual to see what it has to say on the subject of storage. Page 14 says a boost charge should be applied every 90 days or when the open-circuit voltage falls below 12.5 volts (and goes on to specify more details). Also, page 28 has this to say about Trickle Charging (in defining it): "Method of charging in which the battery is continuously or intermittently connected to a constant current charging source to maintain the battery in a fully charged condition. Not recommended for use with Lifeline AGM batteries."


Again not certain we are comparing similar systems. The "constant current charging source" would not be the IOTA IQ4 as the current varies depending on the phase of the converter and charge level of the batteries.

The "cooked battery thread" also mixed different systems in the discussion and there was never a definitive explanation arrived at for the burned/cooked battery.

I guess what I am trying say is that unless we are comparing identical components it would be at best a WAG as to what is causing a failure.

But I am "electron" challenged and could be wrong! :D

Phil

Ps...Page #19 of the above referenced Lifeline Technical Manual describes the preferred way to charge their AGM design batteries and it is identical to the IOTA IQ4 phased converter as best as I can tell...
 
Wallowa said:
Please explain...why use a battery tender rather than keep the FWC connected to "shore power" and use the charger [IOTA IQ4] in the camper to maintain the batteries? . . .
My reasons for battery tender:
  • I don't have an Iota IQ4 charger.
  • I do have the battery tender.
  • It is much easier to check water level and SG while on a workbench.
jim
 
JaSAn said:
My reasons for battery tender:
  • I don't have an Iota IQ4 charger.
  • I do have the battery tender.
  • It is much easier to check water level and SG while on a workbench.
jim

Thanks Jim...kind of figured out that this discussion had mixed many different types of battery and charging systems [see #21]..

I have AGMs in the Hawk and my motorcycles...no acid to spill and no fluids to monitor....my Outback and Tundra both came with acid/lead batteries and I keep them on Battery Tender Juniors....will go AGM soon in both of them...

Gosh I had forgotten about measuring SG! Seems like a long time ago that was standard.

Phil
 
After reading the lifeline manual and the IQ4 manual, I can't see any reason not to just plug it in to shore power and forget it. The IQ4 looks like a very good battery maintainer.
 
Our tc manufacturer(Hallmark) reccomended these:

https://no.co/g7200

There are several varieties to choose from but most of them include multilevel charging and float modes to maximize the longevity of our batteries...
 
captainphx said:
After reading the lifeline manual and the IQ4 manual, I can't see any reason not to just plug it in to shore power and forget it. The IQ4 looks like a very good battery maintainer.
IQ4 does 2.266 volts per cell in float, 2.366 in absorb ( 14.2) and 2.466 in bulk
http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/IQ4manual.pdf

My AGM's want 2.45v (14.7) per cell in absorb, don't care in bulk (gimme current!) and 2.3 in float (close enough). That delta in absorb phase is huge.

I bought a Noco Genius 7200 today. It gives my batteries what they want.
 
Vic Harder said:
IQ4 does 2.266 volts per cell in float, 2.366 in absorb ( 14.2) and 2.466 in bulk
http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/IQ4manual.pdf

My AGM's want 2.45v (14.7) per cell in absorb, don't care in bulk (gimme current!) and 2.3 in float (close enough). That delta in absorb phase is huge.

I bought a Noco Genius 7200 today. It gives my batteries what they want
Which batteries do you have?
 
Wallowa said:
. . .

Gosh I had forgotten about measuring SG! Seems like a long time ago that was standard.
Hope I don't hijack the thread but you have aroused my curiosity. For AGM batteries, what do you use as a figure of merit to determine 100% full? 12 hour resting voltage or something else? SG is what I use to set and check the Trimetric.

jim
 
JaSAn said:
Hope I don't hijack the thread but you have aroused my curiosity. For AGM batteries, what do you use as a figure of merit to determine 100% full? 12 hour resting voltage or something else? SG is what I use to set and check the Trimetric.

jim
Good question Jim. There are a variety of algorithms.

AH drawn is a good measure. So if the PV puts back AH drawn PLUS some a small percentage, say 5 to 8%, it considers them fully charged.

Your suggestion is good. However, if the batteries never get a chance to rest, how do you measure the resting voltage?
 
The IOTA DLS-30 output voltage can be adjusted using the small trimmer pot inside the unit. For those like Vic with AGM batteries that want a higher voltage, it should be easy enough to crank the voltage up to 2.45V per cell.
 
rando said:
The IOTA DLS-30 output voltage can be adjusted using the small trimmer pot inside the unit. For those like Vic with AGM batteries that want a higher voltage, it should be easy enough to crank the voltage up to 2.45V per cell.
Good reminder rando, except I thought the IQ4 overrides the trimmer pot... and that this tweek only works for those not using the IQ4?
 
My understanding was that the trimmer would move the voltages for all stages up and down - but I could be wrong.
 
I have an older G7200 & a newer G3500. The G3500 supports the AGM+ batteries.

It may be useful to contact Iota to see if they have a solution. Can't imagine they wouldn't be aware of new AGM chemistry and working on a solution.

Paul
 
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