How to remove a Norcold Fridge

Garden-gnomes

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Joined
Sep 7, 2015
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Anyone have ideas on how to remove the Norcold from a CO. It appears to be too wide to get out the door or one of the drop down panels in the CO.
 
Some older pull behind campers have the same problem because during assembly, the interiors were installed before the walls and roof were put on. Maybe Alaskan did the same... interior in, then top half installed. So, raising the top half off of the lower section may be one way to get the fridge out in one piece.
 
Got it figured out. Was just able to pull the unit into the galley area. Rotate on its face and pass out the upper part of the door. Did have to remove the door and the flange. Will replace with coolers and a 12v unit in the truck cab. My goal is to have the camper as simple as possible for extended trip.
Adding an extra battery and direct charging connection to the truck battery with welding cables. LCD lighting, High Mount brake light and way too much wood replacement.
 
You don't have to run a big cable . If you have a camper truck, that came with the plug in the back . It is set up to charge camper battery while driving. Run brake and running lights, and not discharge truck battery while stopped. Look at 50 amp battery wires aren't that big.
 
I do have a camper truck with a plug at rear and mid frame but the wires are only 12 ga. It just takes a long time to charge the house batteries and the voltage drop over 20 feet of wire is rather significant. Welding cable is overkill but I happen to have a lot of it. Considering placing a pure sine wave 1500 watt Inverter in the truck or the camper. Will want to run good size cables off the truck battery with the house batteries as the surge supply. Isolation switch when not running the truck engine.
Open to any suggestions. Really do not want to carry a generator and headed to some rainy country. Solar not the best.

Picked up a 2004 Chevy 2500 HD long bed with 60K miles absolutely perfect condition. 8.1 engine with the big Allison transmission. 2wd. It carries the Alaskan with ease.
 
Ditch the 12ga and replace with 6 if you have it, 8 minimum. That should get you some good charging with little voltage drop. Marine cable works well so I'm told :)
 
Welding cable vary in size depending on the application. Mine are 6 bundle with 25 strands in each. Diameter is similar to a # 1 but with more strands. They will carry the load just fine. System will be house battery to fuse and isolation switch. Inverter behind the drivers seat in the truck and continue into the camper with 2 batteries. Likely another fuse between the inverter and the house batteries. Will be camping in cold weather. Need to be able to run the furnace over night. Can start the truck to run bigger electric loads.
 
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