awesome, thanks for all that detail.
HQST 100W flex solar panels
- Thread starter Will.I.Am
- Start date
carld
Senior Member
That wouldn't really work for me, the wiring on the panels is on the back so they don't sit flat on the surface. The panels are sandwiched between stiff plastic making them semi-rigid so they don't need any backing. Mounting them on a frame allows plenty of air flow and makes room for the wires. The roof screws don't aline with the panels, you would have to drill holes through the panels to access the roof mounting screws, or find new places to drill into the roof to mount the panels. I mounted the frame first then the panels on top and just don't see how how you can put the panels on aluminum and then access the roof screws.
takingatrip1
Advanced Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2014
- Messages
- 70
Im thinking about trying this. Did they just go around the perimeter of the panel or multiple strips ? Are you happy with the performance so far ?Stalking Light said:
thanks Jeff
Stalking Light
Feral Grandpa
Multiple strips. It seems to be staying on well after a couple thousand miles driving, no signs at all of pulling away. The panel itself is performing as expected too. I now have a total of 200w on the roof and, since I live in the southeast where it is often hazy hot and humid, I'm going to have them add another 100w in a couple of weeks when I'm back out that way.takingatrip1 said:
takingatrip1
Advanced Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2014
- Messages
- 70
Very cool, thanks for the info. Which solar controller did you go with ?
Sent from my LG-H810 using Wander The West mobile app
Sent from my LG-H810 using Wander The West mobile app
Stalking Light
Feral Grandpa
GoPower, same with the panels. They are the ones Adventure Trailers recommended and have a good reputation.
radarcontact
Senior Member
Stalking Light....when you say multiple strips, do you mean cross strips under the panel itself, in addition to the perimiter strips....or are you saying that the perimiter strips are more than one layer thick? In other words, one strip on the perimeter layered on top of another strip, in order to create more thickness? Thanks.
Stalking Light
Feral Grandpa
Not layered strips just strips an inch or so apart under the entire panel.
carld
Senior Member
Here is a crude drawing of the first frame I made for just one solar panel. It shows the solar panel in yellow on the bottom in order to see the frame in gray ( The panel in reality mounts on top of the frame). When I added two panels, I remade it longer with more cross members every foot.
Attachments
I just bought one of the HQST flexible panels to use as a portable, in addition to the 200w on my roof. Just got back from a trip and it worked great. After a week of leaning it against my camper or a camp chair, it did start to flex/bend/bow from only being supported at the touch points on the ground and the top of the panel.
Given that these flexibles should not flex (much), I would like to add some kind of light rigid backing to keep it straight. I did put it on cardboard and that was not adequate - it would still bow.
It needs to be light or it defeats the purpose of having one of these light panels. 1/4" plywood? Other? Or is there a way to position it so that it does not need a backing?
Thoughts from the group?
Given that these flexibles should not flex (much), I would like to add some kind of light rigid backing to keep it straight. I did put it on cardboard and that was not adequate - it would still bow.
It needs to be light or it defeats the purpose of having one of these light panels. 1/4" plywood? Other? Or is there a way to position it so that it does not need a backing?
Thoughts from the group?
Bseek
Gypsy Feet
A recent post had an elegant solution, pink panel insulation.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/10277-adding-a-second-solar-panel/
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/10277-adding-a-second-solar-panel/
Will.I.Am
Advanced Member
So back in July, before our trip to central Oregon, I finally settled on a roof install method for the HQST flexible 100W and 50W panels I had bought. My goal was to install these panels on our 2005 FWC Hawk in a lightweight, low profile mode, with the smallest footprint possible. I also wanted the panels to be able to get max sun at the same time our boards were up top.
I started by shortening the Yak tracks...
I then cleaned the roof, and began the panel install. I used long strips of industrial strength velcro from Home Depot on each panel, installing four lines of the self adhesive velcro on each. The photo below shows the underside of the panels with velcro before installation.
I drilled holes in four locations on each panel, corresponding to points above the aluminum ribs of the FWC roof, and dumped a boat load of silicone in each hole. I set the panels on the roof, removing the plastic protecting the velcro adhesive, dipped 1" sheet metal screws w/neoprene washers in silicone and screwed the panels down to the roof, being careful not to warp the panels at each attachment point by over-tightening the screws. I slipped a piece of clear plastic corner protector on the leading (forward facing) edge of each panel to protect them from rocks, bugs, etc. Here's a picture of the installed 100W panel leading edge.
Here's a pic of both panels, installed. I used the factory roof SAE connector and wiring.
I noticed that the "diode" (not sure what it's called exactly) on the 100W panel (top of the photo below) was pretty close or even overlapping with one of the solar cells...very different from the space between the cells and diode on the 50W panel. I emailed HQST and they replaced the 100W panel.
I ended up also installing a TriMetric battery monitor and solar charge controller. Suffice it to say the install necessitated occasional morale boosting, but was pretty straight forward in the end.
Two weeks and a few thousand miles later, the install remained solid with the panels providing somewhere around 8 amps peak power. The 150W array, TriMetric setup, and 125aH Lifeline battery kept our huge Dometic CR1110 going the entire trip, even after days in shady campsites...maintaining >50% on the battery most of the time. There were several days where battery couldn't make it past 70% however. The panels definitely warped a bit in the sun, following the contours of the roof, but they're functioning pretty much to spec. Here's a picture of the leading edge bug deflector protector on the panels post-trip.
If I have occasion to reinstall the panels at some point, I might reorient the velcro lengthwise, parallel to the roof, so that water can drain more easily. Right now it pools just a bit under the panels. I also might run larger gauge wiring to the charge controller. Will probably also add another HQST 100W as a portable panel to help out in shaded campsites.
I started by shortening the Yak tracks...
I then cleaned the roof, and began the panel install. I used long strips of industrial strength velcro from Home Depot on each panel, installing four lines of the self adhesive velcro on each. The photo below shows the underside of the panels with velcro before installation.
I drilled holes in four locations on each panel, corresponding to points above the aluminum ribs of the FWC roof, and dumped a boat load of silicone in each hole. I set the panels on the roof, removing the plastic protecting the velcro adhesive, dipped 1" sheet metal screws w/neoprene washers in silicone and screwed the panels down to the roof, being careful not to warp the panels at each attachment point by over-tightening the screws. I slipped a piece of clear plastic corner protector on the leading (forward facing) edge of each panel to protect them from rocks, bugs, etc. Here's a picture of the installed 100W panel leading edge.
Here's a pic of both panels, installed. I used the factory roof SAE connector and wiring.
I noticed that the "diode" (not sure what it's called exactly) on the 100W panel (top of the photo below) was pretty close or even overlapping with one of the solar cells...very different from the space between the cells and diode on the 50W panel. I emailed HQST and they replaced the 100W panel.
I ended up also installing a TriMetric battery monitor and solar charge controller. Suffice it to say the install necessitated occasional morale boosting, but was pretty straight forward in the end.
Two weeks and a few thousand miles later, the install remained solid with the panels providing somewhere around 8 amps peak power. The 150W array, TriMetric setup, and 125aH Lifeline battery kept our huge Dometic CR1110 going the entire trip, even after days in shady campsites...maintaining >50% on the battery most of the time. There were several days where battery couldn't make it past 70% however. The panels definitely warped a bit in the sun, following the contours of the roof, but they're functioning pretty much to spec. Here's a picture of the leading edge bug deflector protector on the panels post-trip.
If I have occasion to reinstall the panels at some point, I might reorient the velcro lengthwise, parallel to the roof, so that water can drain more easily. Right now it pools just a bit under the panels. I also might run larger gauge wiring to the charge controller. Will probably also add another HQST 100W as a portable panel to help out in shaded campsites.
Can someone who has the techno knowledge explain to me ...if we have a 12 volt system in our campers how a deal like this: 320 Watt 24 volt panel ....could be used... or can it? in the mix. I am happy with my 160 watt panel from same company. It is heavy up there...always counting the pounds (except on me). At $99 ...hard to not just say ...hey!
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_270&products_id=2922&utm_source=Copy+of+Copy+of+320+Watt+Price+Slash&utm_campaign=320+Price+Slash+%2499&utm_medium=email
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_270&products_id=2922&utm_source=Copy+of+Copy+of+320+Watt+Price+Slash&utm_campaign=320+Price+Slash+%2499&utm_medium=email
Put 2 12VDC batteries in series to yield 24VDC, connecting the solar panel across that circuit. Then divide your 12VDC load so that a portion is taken from each battery. That is, a positive and negative connected to each of the batteries. Personally, I wouldn't do it, but it's possible.buckland said:
Well... when someone personally wouldn't... there is probably good reason... I understand I think that a series set up puts 12 V in each of the two batteries rather than parallel where by two batteries are in a sense one big 12 volt (?). If I am right...it seems like it would work. Why the trepidation? My father-n-law who is an electrical guy would roll his eyes... I am a slow electrical learner.... but nonetheless want to know why.
Load balance issues would have each battery discharging and charging at different rates (and I don't know what that would do), and it violates my KISS philosophy.
Any decent MPPT charge controller should be able to handle converting the output of these panels to the appropriate voltage for a 12V system. While that panel looks appealing initially - with freight charges you are looking at a cost of $385 for a panel and they weigh 55lbs!buckland said:
PS Do not try and run two 12v batteries in parallel and series at the same time! This cannot be done - you would be causing a dead short across the low side battery.
this is almost the same system drj is running. His mppt charge controller converts the 250 watt panel at 24v to the 12v for the batteries. His system has worked really well for him. But it did add a bit of weight to the roof so he has 40lb lift assist on the roof. I went with 2 flex panels at 120 watt each and didn't even notice any additional weight. Last I checked with solar blvd 2 panels with shipping was under 250.00 bucks.buckland said:
1990 Ford F-250
1997 fwc grandby
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