Installing a 12 volt outlet

[RC Pilot Jim]

We have been blogging on fuses and battery monitors etc for a few days now.
I was on the Truck Camper website this morning and saw the following:

http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-tech/twelve-volt-rv-circuits-102-adding-an-outlet

Thought it was interesting that the writer said max voltage on a 12 volt outlet should be 5 amps and if you have more than one device on the circuit to be aware that running "two 5 amp devices would trip the breaker". Still not clear if my Shell has a breaker...working on it.

I just received my Trimetric 2030-RV today and am busy reading the instruction manual.

 

[Ethergore]

I just received my Trimetric 2030-RV today and am busy reading the instruction manual.

That's two people with new trimetrics on their fwcs. I'm so jealous. Have fun!!!

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Yes Ether I will report when I have more info.
I am stll dragging my feet on putting a panel on the roof. ...Though I like DrJ's idea of a flex panel glued to the roof.

At this point in my life our camper is both something to camp in and something to "experiment with". Kids are grown. I am retired. The body has lots of things it can't do...thank heavens spending money is not one of them. You all should stay in touch with me becasuse one day when I am too old to "camp and explore" I will sell it.

....Longe term in the future as 70 is the new 40...except for those parts that feel age 85!

 

[ntsqd]

I haven't used 2/10ths of what the Tri-Metric is capable of doing and I'm really happy with it. My plan was to measure our use and then size the panel as appropriate. That went out the window when someone here posted a good price on 100W panels.

As to the 5 amp limitation, that must be the specific wiring that the author was dealing with. To the best of my knowledge the sockets and plugs themselves are rated for a max of 15 amps. Or perhaps it's a misprint?

 

[Ethergore]

I have a flex panel I want to put on my roof too but I'm scared I will want to remove it one day. I'm trying to think of a semi permanent way to mount it. Let me know what you come up with.

I would have a trimetric already if I wasn't going back to school for my second career! 2 years and I'll have money again.

 

[BFH4N]

People plug devices drawing 15 or 20 Amps into standard 12 Volt power outlets all the time. Compressors, water pumps, big floodlights, etc. In general, they aren't limited to 5 Amps The outlet needs to be rated for the current, wired with appropriately-sized wire and fused accordingly.

Ethergore, I was also thinking of using a stick-on flexible solar collector and, like you, don't want to attach it permanently to the roof. I want something low-profile and light-weight and to be able to remove it and set it up at an angle on the ground when the camper is in the shade. I had FWC install a connector and a set of Yakima tracks on the roof, plus a connector down low on the back. The idea was to attach the collector to a thin sheet of something and then bolt that to the tracks. This would be about as low-profile as possible and allow a little air flow beneath the collector. There would also need to be some sort of collapsable stand for use on the ground. The big question is what would that sheet of mystery material be? Aluminum would be pretty light, tough and allow good heat transfer, but might cost as much as the collector! Some kind of plastic (plain old 1/4" PVC?) might be cheaper (not sure), but not as strong or as good thermally. Quarter-inch plywood might be OK, though not as substantial as the aluminum or plastic, not good thermally and not particularly weather-proof. It would probably need to have the edges protected by an aluminum channel. All this is just a fantasy at this point - just passing it along for what it's worth. Keep thinking! Let us know what you decide to do.

- Bernard

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Bernard - good to know that the 12 volt outlet will take .....15 amps if wire sized properly.
The ones in my Eagle are definitely 5 amp due to wire size .

Ether - congrats on your second career. Your young enough that you have time...something I am running out of...My plan is to still be exploring out there well into my late 80's...except my older buddies (late age 70's) are really slowing down . I have a positive attitude and am in Denial so I should make it well into my 80's

 

[ntsqd]

Wire size alone doesn't determine the max ampacity, though it is a big factor. Length of the whole circuit is the other big factor.

If you were to use 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant to bond the panel to the roof or to a backer then if/when you wanted to remove it an industrial heat gun will soften the 5200 enough to peel up the panel far enough to cut it loose. For this reason I'd only secure the edges of the panel.

I'd use aluminum for a backer. I would investigate thermally conductive greases or adhesives to bond it on with.
A 2' X 4' piece of 1/8" thick 6061 T6 from Aircraft Spruce run about $65. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/orderform.php?cmd=add&p=03-30350&q=1&x=57&y=16

 

[PaulT]

In my ArimaOwners boating group, there has been much discussions about the suitability of available adhesives. 5200 is considered permanent and most suitable for below the waterline for items one never intends to remove. 4200 is normally used above the waterline and where one might want to remove it someday.

5200 can separate the fiberglas gel coat from the underlying fiberglas when trying to remove something attached with it. It's bond is that strong. Better to use 4200 for bonding the PV panel unless you are sure that heat sufficient to remove the 5200 won't damage the panel, roof paint, or insulation, etc. inside the camper. What is temp at which the panel ignites or deforms and what temp softens the 5200 bond?

Of course, if you never intend to remove the panel, would it matter?
Paul

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Ok 3M 4200 marine adhesive/sealent

Paul has good questions about heat - what temp panel catches on fire? what temp 4200 softens?

 

[Beach]

If you are wiring the outlet directly to the battery, install a fuse within the first 12" of the battery connection. If you put it near the outlet and the fuse blows from a short(.ie. wiring chafe through against the frame etc.) the will be nothing to shut down the circuit for the length of the wire run and you will have a fire hazard. I would use a non conductive material for the panel backer. If you use a HDPE plastic be aware that some adhesives do not bond well, including the 3m polyurethane based.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

In our shell the factory joined the 12 volt outlets, Fant fan, and lights (converted to LED) onto one 10 gauge wire (circuit). There is an automatic circuit breaker between the battery and this wire. I have been researching installing a in-line fuse holder and 10 amp fuse before the switch?

I am awaiting advice from FWC? What is your advice?

 

[Beach]

Since you want to fuse the existing accessories and will probably add some circuits in the future, I would install something like a blue sea 5025 fuse block. (Sorry can't get it to hyperlink)