Installing a Trimetric 2030

[DrJ]

I've seen several requests on the Trimetric 2030 installation and wanted to post a few pictures.

Here is some information about the battery monitor in case you don't know much about it:
http://www.bogartengineering.com/products/trimetric
http://www.bogartengineering.com/sites/default/files/images/high-res/QuickReference%20TM2030%20finalwithimages031814Reference-2.pdf


In a nutshell, it's a battery monitor that uses a shunt to monitor the amp hours of your battery. As electricity passes through the shunt, the monitor keeps track of whether it is going into or out of your battery. It monitors real time voltage, amperage, percentage of charge and a ton of other things I don't even really pay that much attention too.

I installed it near the sink because I didn't have the room on the right side of the cabinets. This is where I would have preferred to place it.

The setup is a little confusing even after reading the manual. You essentially have to hook up a shunt, which is the gold/black hardware with two bolts at the top of the picture. This senses power by running it through the negative side of the battery system. You also hook up the monitors 4 wires. The white wire goes to one side of the shunt and the two black wires go to the far side of the shunt.
There is also a red wire from the monitor that goes to the positive side of the terminal.

Another view of it:

Here is how mine is hooked up:

Shunt Left Side
Negative from battery bank
White Trimetric wire to Top Screw

Shunt Right Side
Negative from solar controller
Negative from main truck camper (FWC negative)
Two black wires from trimetric to top screw

Positive Battery Terminal
Red trimetric with 1 amp fuse

Hope this helps a few of you who were looking for more explanation.

 

[Kokopelli]

Thanks DrJ!

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

As I look at the shunt one size says 50mv other side 500 amp. On opposite side -two small screws in the side.

Are left and right side as you face the side with two small screws?

Does it may any difference which end of the shunt the negative cables from solar, alternator, and charger ( my small Bat Doc)
Side of battery are attached too?

 

[DrJ]

As I look at the shunt one size says 50mv other side 500 amp. On opposite side -two small screws in the side.

Are left and right side as you face the side with two small screws?

Does it may any difference which end of the shunt the negative cables from solar, alternator, and charger ( my small Bat Doc)
Side of battery are attached too?

I am describing it with the left and right as you face the shunt - with the screws pointing up.

It did seem to spell out in the instructions which side of the shunt everything was placed on.

The shunt is just a highly conductive instrument from which all the power in your system has to pass through at some point.
If it's connected wrong it can either read the opposite result or blow a fuse. It has a 1 amp fuse so it doesn't take much to blow it.
My solar, alternator and iota charger would have all been connected on the right side. I am assuming yours would be too. But I would go with the manual if it says differently.

 

[PaulT]

The shunt is a low resistance, high precision resistor. As current flows through the shunt, a small voltage can be measured that is proportional to the current. Current going into the battery produces a voltage of one polarity. Current flowing out of the battery produces a voltage of the opposite polarity.

This allows the battery monitor to compute the amps being consumed from the battery or charging the battery. The monitor can directly measure the battery/charging voltage. Besides the current and voltage, the monitor's processor collects the data over time which allows the monitor to accumulate state of charge, amp hours, etc.

The difference between the two shunts primarily allows the monitor to collect more precise data for the lower current version. The need for the 1 amp fuse is in case of a short or failed component somewhere in that circuit, the battery does not dump mass quantities of power through the small wire causing a fire inside your cabinets.

After seeing all the good data you guys are getting, you are helping me spend more money. I need a Trimetric now and have to justify it to SWMBO. It's just a day & a half at Yosemite Housekeeping camp. Or 3 tanks of gas driving to that great camping spot.

Paul

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

We had the Trimetric and shunt installed this morning. If you are in San Diego county area and you have decided to have a shop do the work I recommend :

Mobile Electronics
2905 Oceanside Blvd Suite A
Oceanside, CA 92054
Mike Lewis - owner
ph: 760-967-1100
mike@northcountymobile.net

He charges $70 per hour. Installation cost $80
The installer Billy knew his business, read the install manual, and did a good job.

It should be less expensive for the next ones because now he knows steps to do it.

Now am testing amp usage to take Refer temp down to 39*
Temp here is 99* when I turned refer on about half hour ago. Refer temp 50* when I last checked it. Amp draw 2.7 at this point in the process. Here are the pictures:

 

[DrJ]

Jim,
That looks like a great installation.
Welcome to the trimetric family!
My wife calls it a toy for battery nerds!

I'd love to hear your measurements on your camper.
It's great to compare from different campers.

 

[billharr]

Nice install. Like the twisted pair going to meter. Only an electronic shop would do that.

Bill

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Here is the rest of pics that did't make the first page:

First Trimetric monitor. I installed it on the side of the wheel well box on drivers side Monitor is displaying amps draw on the Refer. Notice the minus sign? When system is charging minus turns off and it displays charging amp. When I started battery was a 100% of full.

I took their advice and went with the inline fuse on the combined circuit wire on left pole of push/pull switch). Wire and fuse on right pole is the Engle Refer

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Yes I will take the measurements. Now I am testing the monitor. I have the refer on with no charging from alternator, solar, or alternator.
It is very hot and unseasonably humid the past few days. We only live 7 miles from the ocean and have been running the A/C every day. It doesn't cool down until after 8 pm and humidity climbs back to 70% or higher.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

So far the Engle is drawing 3.0 amps when it cycles on. Drops to 2.5 amps after 2 minutes. Now temp 40* ...unit cycling on and off.

Engles published "running amps per hour" of Point 7....is due to system cycling on and off.

On this day at 87* temp unit was on 6 minutes every 15 min. 6 x 4 (60 minutes) = 24 minutes on out of 60 minutes.

about 40% of every hour. Multiply 2.5 amps x 40% = 1 amp per hour. .

Voltage 12.3 refer running
% of full 96%

 

[photohc]

So far the Engle is drawing 3.0 amps when it cycles on. Drops to 2.5 amps after 2 minutes. Now temp 40* ...unit cycling on and off. If 2.5 amps is the average then a 100 watt panel may not be large enough to run refer and charge battery (?). Time and more testing will tell.

Voltage 12.3 refer running
% of full 96%

I think it may be marginal. It will keep your refer running during the day but may have some problems getting the battery back to 100% by end of day. Like you said, just need to try it. I remember you having your old solar panel mobile. Are you planning to keep it that way or movable?
I'm trying something different. I removed my 100 watt standard panel and purchased a Renogy 100 watt. I'll keep my 150 watt panel on the roof and make the Renogy panel portable. I mounted the Renogy on to some left over Owens Corning Extruded Panel Foam board with bolts through foam and aluminum tape (duct tape didn't work, too hot). I hope the foam will hold out for a awhile but may need to replace if it gets beat up. Here's how it looks.

The panel weights 3#'s and the foam panel, next to nothing. I now have a very light weight 100 watt movable panel to orient into the moving sun. I'm now trying figure out some kind of stiff wiring support on the back that I can tape on and deploy to hold the panel at an angle. I'll share once I get that done. Harv

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

For the time being I will keep the 60 watt portable.

I plan to replace the MorningStar SunSaver 10L with a 20 L because if I run the 60 and 100 watt panel amp draw is 9 amps - don't want to risk burning out the controller

I have been monitoring the device use with the Trimetric so update DrJ's original post.

 

[ETAV8R]

Great looking install Jim. I may have to give that guy a call.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Programming the Trimetric
Today I unplugged the NEG cable of the battery to swap out the MorningStar SunSaver 10 L 10 amp controller for a 20 L 20 amp controller and swapped out the 10 amp fuse for a 15 amp (as I don't have a 20 amp now). If you do this also disconnect the the cable on the roof.

Anyone interested in a used good working 10 amp charge controller for $30.00?

After hooking everything back up I noticed the % full value had changed from "94" to "100". Hmmmm....

Next checked the P-1 and P-3 settings as I assumed the installer had "programmed" the "L-1" settings ...(He hadn't).

P-1 "Set point voltage" - set at 14.3. Install instructions advised 14.0 for AGM battery = I reset it to 14.0

P-3 "Battery System Capacity". Default setting "220". Exide Website not clear what amp-hour ratingfor my 75 amp battery. (don't understand - ask)

-------------------- Phone Bogart Engineering ------------

Tech advised setting P-1 to 14.2 or .3 and P-3 to "70" = I did......70 because we have a 75 amp battery.

Then reminded me that "re-booting" the meter sets the % Full to 100% until the first time the battery reaches full than meter will display the correct value.

Placed the 1.25 amp battery charger on. Battery should be "topped off" by tomorrow morning.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Turned on the Engle comp Refer Sat (9/20) noon and let it draw the battery down to 77% full as of 8 am Sunday morning.
Parked truck in front of house in the....morning overcast. Around 9 am -sun came out. Returned from church and groc store about 1:30...,

Checked Trimetric.
Voltage 13.9 .
Percent of full - 97.
Amp 1.6 indicated..
..Renology roof panel doing its job. Refer nice cool 39*.

Checked 4 pm.
Voltage - 13.5
Percent of full - 98
Amps point 6

Bogart Engineering tech advised a higher volt reading and lower amps over 95% full. Have not seen voltage reading over 14 yet.

Anyone else have any data to share?