Installing camper techniques

I cut pieces of carboard from a TV box to use as a guide. I glued some foam underneath so they will stay put on the bed rails. I only used them once but they really seemed to help me back up straight and get the camper centered in the bed. camper 007_opt.jpg
 
I used to live in a 8 foot cab over. When I was on a job I took it out of the bed and set it down on 4x4 seting on rv jack stands. It only took me one time putting it back in to figuer out I needed help, so what I did was determine exactly which rib on the bed was center, I then painted it saftey orange from front to back. Why safety orange you ask it was what was in the tool room on the job! I then deturmined the center on the front of my cab over and painted a stripe there. Now the next time I had to load it I just lined the stripes up and backed in.
Here is another tip after you pick up your camper but before you let it down take a mgic marker and mark the leg so you won't have to guess how high you have to lift it to clear the truck next time.
Sometimes I would be on a job for 3 months to a year but when it came time to leave I could have the camper preped, loaded, and secured within an hour
 
I've loaded/unloaded my current FWC and my older FWC about 20 times. What I find works for me is to get the truck all the way backed in (after stopping and checking alignment a couple times while I'm backing up). Then, with the camper lightly touching the front of the bed, i have my wife (she's strong, but only 105 lbs) push on whatever side is to close to the bed. She just kind of leans on it with her body weight as I lower the camper onto the bed. If it's not quite straight, I raise it 1/2" or so and do the same thing til we get it centered. My FWC only has about 1/2" clearance at each side of the tailgate, so it's a pretty close fit to begin with.
 
I made a spacer that sets the distance between the wheel well and camper box.(convienently it is the exact width of a 2x4...) I just lean against the camper and reach in and drop the spacer into place. Keeps centered distance intact as I continue to lower. :oops:
 
If you have a flat garage or storage area you could always bolt (or weld) caster wheels to the bottom of your jacks and maneuver your camper onto your truck. It also helps to roll the camper into a nice tight corner of the garage when not in use.
On my Finch, I have a 1/2" on both sides of my camper to play with. I just take a 1/2" strip of plywood and place it in that gap as Im lowering it onto the bed. I've found that also helps keep the camper snug in the bed and I have to retighten the turnbuckles a lot less...
 
If you don't happen to have a paved area you can still use the caster system as I just did getting the camper in yesterday. First get the camper nearly onto the truck - backing the last few inches is the hardest bit to get right.
Lay a piece of plywood down under one of the rear pole jacks. The camper will balance on three jacks so lift one to put plywood and wheels under it. I used a wheeled lift jack as my wheels - a very heavy duty plant stand might work too. Now switch the weight to the wheeled pole and you can slide the rear around to exactly line up with the truck.
 
I have found that I can rock it and slide it while its an inch or so above the bed. Then lower it in. A half inch off center doesn't seem to matter:)
 
I unloaded my Hawk for the first time today. I put the jack feet on 1x4x12 lumber. When I reinstalled camper, I lower the front until just touching the bed and kicked the jack feet until clearances were equal on both sides. After adjustments; lowered front and then rear.

Not sure what the issue is with the turn buckles. Sean (WI FWC dealer) had me mark the UP position for each TB for "righty tighty". I simply install the TBs and hand tighten, then insert a screw driver and tighten another 1/2 turn. Back into an upslope and retighten if loose.
 
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