Installing Yakima Tracks

[Espresso]

Can anyone provide a picture of where the Yakima tracks are mounted on the roof of the camper? I have a Thule track system from my van and I only need to purchase the rails an mount them on top of the camper. I assume they mount on the metal "joists" that run the length of the camper, but I'd like to see a picture of a factory installation to make sure I'm on the right track. (pun intended)

 

[Lighthawk]

Sorry, no photo, perhaps someone else can help out.
But yes, the Yak Tracks mount directly over the first joists inboard the edge of the camper. Mine run within probably less than six inches of edge, front to back. I've found it valuable to have the ability to move my rear cross bar as far back as possible, when rolling kayaks up over the Hully Roller system.

 

[Samo]

Good info Andy!

This may help.

 

[Espresso]

Thanks for your replies. The outboard joists seem like the most logical location. I wanted to verify the location because this mounting point makes it a long span for the rack crossbar. I can always add an extra support in the middle if necessary.

 

[Lighthawk]

What some folks have done is add a third crossbar. The benefits are to distribute the weight (if that's an issue) and potentially support a short platform for fuel, etc. See Sunman's Roof Rack thread

 

[Espresso]

Great thread. Very helpful. Thanks Andy!

I don't think I want to carry gas cans on the roof, but I am thinking of rigging an extension to the crossbar so I have a place to hang a solar shower.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

What year is your camper ?

If you look up on top of the camper roof, do you see a bunch of screws attaching the aluminum roof skin to the roof frame ?


.

 

[Espresso]

Stan,

I think it's a 2001. Yes, the roof is screwed to the roof frame.

How long are the tracks you show in the picture. I've seen 54" tracks, but the 60" or longer tracks state they only mount to a fiberglass (or non-metal) roof.

 

[camelracer]

Great thread. Very helpful. Thanks Andy!

I don't think I want to carry gas cans on the roof, but I am thinking of rigging an extension to the crossbar so I have a place to hang a solar shower.

I use the Yakima Boatloader to hang the shower on. I fits inside the crossbar and pulls out and locks as needed.
http://yakima.com/shop/water/load-assist/boatloader

 

[Espresso]

That's what I'm looking for. I have Thule racks, but I'm sure they make something similar. Putting a pair on the front and rear crossbars open up a number of possibilities for hanging wetsuits, easier storage of surfboards or kayaks, etc.

 

[BSS]

The roof screws on your FWC should be 12" apart, which (conveniently) is the same as the hole spacing on the yakima tracks. This I know for certain as I've installed three sets now.

Yakima and thule mounting feet (the ones intended for use with this particular type of application) and roof rails are interchangeable between brands. The extrusions are slightly different, but the fit inside the actual channel is identical. So just buy whatever ones you can find a better deal on. Might even check your pick n pull first. That's my #1 source for rack parts and they sell yakima & thule stuff super cheap.

Whatever rails you end up using, make sure to test an assembled mounting foot with your intended hardware before mounting to the camper. The screws that come with the rails are slightly smaller than the self tappers FWC uses from the factory, and you want to reuse those holes if at all possible so you might need to source these fasteners separately. The concern here is that the mounting tabs on the bottom of the foot pack, when installed in the track, do not make contact with the heads of the screws you used to mount the rails with - which will prevent your feet from sliding back and forth in the track. Just something to be aware of. Test it all out on the bench before installing.

Ideally you want a button head type screw with a built on washer with as much surface area as possible but still sitting flush in the bottom of the rail channel. You"ll know what I mean when you have it all in front of you.

 

[Alley-Kat]

Here's some info I put together about owning Thule rack equipment components already, or if a owner prefers to have Thule components instead of Yakama components (there are big arguments all over the web on which system is best). And, the items below work with Yakima basic tracks (I'm not sure Thule even has the basic tracks, I've never seen them).

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Thule Roof Rack Mounting Components for camper mounted Yakima Tracks.

Base Rack Attachment

TK1 Tracker Kit 1, MSRP $59.95, UPC 091021431171

The Thule TK1 Tracker Kit is the base rack solution for cars with factory racks. The Thule TK1 Tracker Kit
attaches to OEM factory rack tracks on multiple vehicles, replacing the factory crossbars and creating a
dependable Thule load carrier.

This also fits the Yakima Tracks (mounts directly to them).

· Sold as a set of four TK1 Feet

· Kits used with Thule 430 Tracker II foot pack or Thule 430R Rapid Tracker foot pack, both sold separately

FootPacks (select only one type, 430 or 430R) A foot pack mounts to the TK1


430 Tracker II, MSRP $139.95, UPC 091021430174

The Thule 430 Tracker II is the base rack solution for cars with factory racks. Thule Tracker II 430
attaches to factory rack tracks, replacing the factory rack and creating a dependable Thule load carrier.
Set of four feet.

· Redesigned foot with Click-on/Click-off technology for maximum user-friendliness

· Requires Thule TK Tracker Kit, sold separately

· Innovative kit system simplifies rack transfer between vehicles

· Convenient push button release for rack removal when not in use

· Includes 4 Thule end caps

· Uses the older, rectangular Thule load bars

430R Rapid Tracker, MSRP $129.95, UPC 091021430976


Thule is proud to introduce the Thule 430R Rapid Tracker Foot Pack, a part of the newer Thule Rapid Aero System.

· New foot packs are designed to work exclusively with Thule rapid aluminum load bars (kind of Oval-ish shape).

· Seamless look achieved with integrated foot and rapid aluminum load bar

· Product range fits more vehicles than any other rack manufacturer

· Customize rack with any Thule accessory, Xadapt kit required for certain accessories

· Includes 4 Thule Rapid Aero end caps

· Xadaptors are required to mount some accessories

Locks (in case you want/need locks)



544 4-Pack Lock Cores, MSRP $48.95, UPC 091021000247

Thule's lock cylinders lock and unlock with the same key to eliminate the hassle of multiple keys.
When ordering Thule One Key System lock cylinder packs we recommend that you purchase additional
lock cylinders in anticipation of adding accessories.

· One key system secures all your lockable Thule accessories

· One key to unlock everything

· Enter your lock code in your order comments to match your current Thule locks

· Includes 4 cores, 2 keys and change key to remove lock cores

· Matching lock cylinders can take up to 2 weeks, should we not have them in stock, as they are special order from the manufacturer

No matter which way you go... Thule or Yakima, for NEW equipment the best prices and most outstanding service that I've found is at RackAttack. For USED equipment it's Ebay or my local CraigsList for me.

 

[SLO_F-250]

(I'm not sure Thule even has the basic tracks, I've never seen them).



Alley-Kat, GREAT WRITE-UP!

Here is a link to the basic Thule Track. Im sure other places sell them as well.

 

[Alley-Kat]

Well, thanks and I stand corrected, now I've seen 'em.

Wonder if they go longer than 42" & 54" shown?

Such as the Yakima Basic Tracks that go 60" ($175), 72" ($225), and Full Length of the roof ($300), that the guys at All Terrain Campers offer.And, I think those might be installed prices, but, the guys at ATC could confirm that or deny that (or maybe Jay will see this, he'll probably know).

 

[super doody]

The screws that come with the rails are slightly smaller than the self tappers FWC uses from the factory, and you want to reuse those holes if at all possible so you might need to source these fasteners separately. The concern here is that the mounting tabs on the bottom of the foot pack, when installed in the track, do not make contact with the heads of the screws you used to mount the rails with - which will prevent your feet from sliding back and forth in the track. Just something to be aware of. Test it all out on the bench before installing.

Ideally you want a button head type screw with a built on washer with as much surface area as possible but still sitting flush in the bottom of the rail channel. You"ll know what I mean when you have it all in front of you.


For the yakima tracks, which screws did you end up using or did you buy new screw? If so, can you tell me what size you used?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[Espresso]

Great info BSS and Alley-Kat. I have the TK1, although I didn't know the part name until I read your post. I ended up with Thule because a buddy passed along many of his components when he bought a new car and they didn't fit. Now I'm too invested to switch, not that I see any reason to move to Yakima.

It seems it would be best to reuse the original screws because you want the threads to match. Do they end up being too short and/or do the heads stick up too high?

Very good to know the tracks are interchangeable. There is a shop in San Francisco near the ball park that stocks Yakima tracks. I'll swing by and pick up 2 or 3. (I'm thinking of adding a 3rd track down the middle for mid-bar support or to provide mounting options). Hopefully they have them in 60" lengths.

The install looks pretty easy. I plan to use plenty of silicone caulk.

 

[Alley-Kat]

The install looks pretty easy. I plan to use plenty of silicone caulk.



You may want to search the WTW Forum using "Sealant" or some other search words to do a little research.
If nothing else, it's interesting reading.
Once you've read the comments, you can make up your own mind on what to use.

 

[Espresso]

Good suggestion.

 

[WaltK]

For the yakima tracks, which screws did you end up using or did you buy new screw? If so, can you tell me what size you used?

Thanks,

Jim


No way I'd use the original screws, though you do want to match the size and thread pitch. I've seen enough rusting screws on FWC roofs, I'd only go back with stainless steel, it's only a matter of time until the screws there rust. My roof does not leak, but the sealent is pretty worn off, I expect to replace all the roof screws in the course of my rebuild.