Keystone Floor Pack Modification

[Bajaian]

Hey Folks,
I'm another one of those lurkers that decided it was finally time to become a member. There is so much excellent content! In what started out as a simple cabinet remodel has turned into a complete gutting of my '88 Keystone. In the process, I discovered some rot on the floor in the right rear corner. I have the camper sitting on a horse stall mat and have realized that what is needed are runners to allow for air circulation (thanks again WTW members!). Knowing I had to replace some of the floor, I realized I could gain some interior space by removing the lower/shorter step section on each side of the floor pack. Most of the floor pack modifications I've seen involve extending it into the camper to fit the narrower truck beds being made. Are there any considerations I need take if I remove them? Do I need to modify the aluminum frame at the front side of the camper to match the new shape, or does it not matter from a structural perspective?
Thanks!

 

[Bajaian]

Here's the truck with camper on it. I hope this comes through.

 

[shellback]

The front wall and back wall aluminum framing extends down to the floor. So you would need to cut some out to eliminate the lower step section.

 

[Bajaian]

Hi Shellback, I'm not positive but I think I might have to add some framing as I would be extending the taller step all the way to the floor, correct? I'll know tomorrow when I get it off the truck.

 

[ckent323]

Bajaian,

Here is a thread on a Keystone rebuild that included narrowing the floor pack in case you have not seen it.

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/10322-keystone-rebuild-narrow-floor-pack-redo-interior-paint-exterior/?hl=%2Bkeystone+%2Bfloor+%2Bpack

If you search on "narrow floor pack" I think you can find other build threads.

I hope this is helpful.

Craig


BTW: I owned a 1986 Keystone (since sold) and I now own a 2007 Keystone. Also I have a close friend who owns a 1985 Keystone that is in excellent shape. We both just recently completed a 45 day 7900 mile trip to/from Alaska in our 1993 Dodge W250 trucks and FWC campers.

 

[Bajaian]

Hi Craig,
I'm green with envy, the W250 has the 5.7 Cummins, correct? If there was anything I would change on my F350...
And Alaska...INDEED! On the bucket list, but that'll probably be a few years out for me.
I must have misspoke in my initial positing. I'm not trying to narrow the floor pack, I'm looking at removing the lower step of the floor pack and gaining some interior space. I'm guessing it'll only be a couple of cubic feet on each side, but if I'm already replacing some of the floor, why not? Oh yeah..time, money and effort...but I can't say I don't enjoy working on it. Spent the day building a platform on casters, mostly out of the materials the flatbed was shipped on, and with any luck, will have the Keystone sitting on it tomorrow.
And I didn't know they made Keystones as late as 2007. I can only imagine the big model stopped selling so well.
Ian

 

[ckent323]

Ian,

If I remember correctly the Keystone was last made in 2011. As I also recall there was a hiatus in the manufacture of the Keytone model in the late 1990s before they started building it again in the 2000's (around 2003 or 2004) before discontinuing it again in 2011.

The floor space in the older model is much better than the newer models that are made for narrower truck beds. I miss that wider floor but I like the extended overcab Queen size bed in our 2007 Keystone. I added solar panels, two 6v deep cycle batteries and Victron controller and battery monitor to it last summer and that has worked out very well.

Yes, I have a 1993 Dodge w250 ClubCab LE with OEM captains chair seats and 5-speed Getrag. I am trying to get a custom cargo box for it completed. Once it is done I will paint the whole truck.

Before the Alaska trip I removed the interior and installed Sound damping material on the ceiling, back wall and floor from Sound Deadener Showdown. It dropped the sound by 3 - 4 dB. I still need to install the material in the door panels and under the hood. I am hoping for another 3 - 4 dB when done.

The truck has a Banks exhaust kit, exhaust brake and ISSPRO gauge set (Tach, EGT, Boost and Fuel Presssure). I also have added two 2.1 A USB outlets in the front of the cab and a USB plus 12 v cigarette lighter outlet to the cab extension behind the front seat for powering cameras, cell phones and a Dometic CFX-35 refrigerator (which sits in the extended cab area behind the center console and works great there).

I am looking at DOT/SAE compliant replacement LED headlights now because the OEM halogens are just not bright enough.

I am n the market for new seats as well because the seat back reclining mechanism in both seats are now broken. Leaning towards Scheel-Mann Vario or Recaro Orthopaed.

The truck ran great on the trip and with the Keystone camper and towing a 18 foot long enclosed trailer weighing around 6000 lbs it averaged around 13.5 miles per gallon. Without the trailer it averages about 19 - 19.5 miles per gallon.

It has around 400,000 miles on it. I bought it in 1999 with 125,000 miles on it and I put 275,000 miles on it in the past 21 years using it as my daily driver. I am confident I can get another 200,000 - 400,000 miles out of it. It is quite possible it will still be operable when I am no longer able to continue driving due to age. ;-)

 

[Beach]

If the wheel well build out is built like I think, then it is just basically a 3 sided plywood box with no framing. If you remove it the side frame of the camper should have a header running across the opening that provides structural support. You could add some vertical framing if you want but it may not be needed with the header in place.

 

[Bajaian]

Thanks Beach, been fretting about the camper collapsing after cutting out that step. I can also use the jacks to support the weight. And do one at a time.

And Craig, that sounds like a nice truck. Those Cummins engines will-go-for-ever!

 

[PokyBro]

Ian,

If your floor Pack is in good shape, you might not be gaining that much widening the floor out 4-5” on each side. If I understand your original question, I think you would need to add some aluminum tubing Down on the front wall, or possibly just use wood to fill in the area. It looks like you’re putting this on a flatbed, thus your interest in widening the floor. Just a thought, if you ever resale it, leaving as is might be better.

All that being said, good luck with your build, and welcome to the forum!

Poky