I talked my brother into buying a used 2001 FWC Granby last year and about 6 sheet metal screws(on two different Latches) have snapped off. I was going to try and center drill them and use an easy out to get the screws out but I think they are really seized in there. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks
Latch screws breaking
- Thread starter chvy
- Start date
UglyScout
Contributors
I haven't had any screws break - but I had a leak in my camper and pulled out every screw on the top weather seal and about 10% of them were so rusty they could of and would have broke if used in the latches. A few broke off at the head when I tried to remove them. The water is getting into the screw, rusting them from the inside and then they snap off right at the head...
I do not have a fix or any tips, I just siliconed over the broken ones and ran a new screw in next to them.
I do not have a fix or any tips, I just siliconed over the broken ones and ran a new screw in next to them.
Crickert
Member
The previous owner of our '04 Grandby had an issue with one of the side latches. He moved the latch over one set of holes. When we got it the first big project was to replace all of the exterior screws with stainless steel screws and a dab of sealent on the screw before it was replaced. We found a half a dozen screws that were almost rusted through. A couple broke off and we were unable to extract them; we just sealed the hole and moved over 1/2" and put a new screw in. I recommend replacing your exterior screws and seal the threads with a marine grade sealant.
Another thought is maybe the previous owner had the latches adjusted to tight. If you do a forum search you can find threads about both of these topics.
-Chris
Another thought is maybe the previous owner had the latches adjusted to tight. If you do a forum search you can find threads about both of these topics.
-Chris
pods8
Contributors
I talked my brother into buying a used 2001 FWC Granby last year and about 6 sheet metal screws(on two different Latches) have snapped off. I was going to try and center drill them and use an easy out to get the screws out but I think they are really seized in there. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks
They are snapping off while you're trying to remove them or in normal use? If normal use I'd wonder if you're trying to crank down too hard on things in general, the top isn't supposed to be pulled down as hard as you can, it should still have a little spring in the seal.
They are snapping off while you're trying to remove them or in normal use? If normal use I'd wonder if you're trying to crank down too hard on things in general, the top isn't supposed to be pulled down as hard as you can, it should still have a little spring in the seal.
There is one latch that all 4 of them broke, I think just driving down the road. I am forwarding this link to him. I checked and they were tight(the latch) but not extremely. I may have him loosen them a bit. The problem is now getting the old ones out. Thanks for all replies.
Stan@FourWheel
Senior Member
Here is a general over-view for the roof latches on older four wheel campers . . .
On the older campers, if they screws holding the roof latches to the side of the camper are not broken, don't mess with them.
(if they are working and not broke off, it might be best to just leave them alone)
The roof trim screws at the top of the roof are alot more forgiving and come out easier, even if they are rusted. So if you need to change those out, there is a little less to worry about.
But for some reason with the roof latches on the sides of the camper, if the screw is rusted and you try and remove it, the screw head might very well pop off.
Sometimes just due to pressure and vibration over the years combined with rust, the screw head can pop off as the camper ages. Not a big problem, but I have seen it happen.
The best way for a fix would be to remove the latch from the side of the camper and try and get a bite on the broken screw with a pair of pliers or something small, to gently twist the tip of the broken screw out.
Worst case, you can grind down the broken screw, seal the older screw holes with a marine grade silicone, and slightly move the roof latch over on direction or the other. Drill new pilot holes and install roof latch with new upgraded screws to one side or the other of the original location.
If you had 2 good screws on one side or another, you could put new screws in those holes, seal them up, and move the latch slightly the other direction and re-mount the latch with new holes and new screws.
This way when you are looking at the camper, you will see the roof latch, and just 2 small screws new to it. This might look the best, instead of seeing 2 holes filled with silicone next to the latch.
Hope this helps.
.
.
On the older campers, if they screws holding the roof latches to the side of the camper are not broken, don't mess with them.
(if they are working and not broke off, it might be best to just leave them alone)
The roof trim screws at the top of the roof are alot more forgiving and come out easier, even if they are rusted. So if you need to change those out, there is a little less to worry about.
But for some reason with the roof latches on the sides of the camper, if the screw is rusted and you try and remove it, the screw head might very well pop off.
Sometimes just due to pressure and vibration over the years combined with rust, the screw head can pop off as the camper ages. Not a big problem, but I have seen it happen.
The best way for a fix would be to remove the latch from the side of the camper and try and get a bite on the broken screw with a pair of pliers or something small, to gently twist the tip of the broken screw out.
Worst case, you can grind down the broken screw, seal the older screw holes with a marine grade silicone, and slightly move the roof latch over on direction or the other. Drill new pilot holes and install roof latch with new upgraded screws to one side or the other of the original location.
If you had 2 good screws on one side or another, you could put new screws in those holes, seal them up, and move the latch slightly the other direction and re-mount the latch with new holes and new screws.
This way when you are looking at the camper, you will see the roof latch, and just 2 small screws new to it. This might look the best, instead of seeing 2 holes filled with silicone next to the latch.
Hope this helps.
.
.
Stan and all,thanks. We will try to spray a touch of PB Blaster in each broken screw and drill a small center hole to see if we can use a small easy out to remove them first. I guess at last resort we can move them over and drill new holes. Thanks for the offer to send stainless screws Stan.
Stan@FourWheel
Senior Member
The roof latch screws we use now are NOT a stainless steel screw.
The screws we use these days for the jack brackets, the rear camper door, and the roof latches are a tempered marine grade screw that has an anti-rust coating applied to it.
They have been working excellent the past few years !
In the very rare occassions in the past where we used stainless steel screws it eneded up being a really big hassle to do it correctly. What most people don't know is that the stainless steel screws are very soft. When installing the stainless steel screws on a new camper, the guys in our shop have to be SO careful not to over tighten them or the screw head will break off. It defeats the purpose of changing the screws out in the first place. We have done quite a bit of homework and talked to a few experts of that industry and what we are using now seems to work well for our purposes.
If you have access to a dremel and a small cutting blade for it, you might be able to notch the tip of the broken screw and use a small screw driver to back it out ?
We have done this many times with the jack bracket bolts.
But the screws on the roof latches are a bit smaller, so i'm not sure how much room you have to get a small blade on it ? Maybe worth a try of nothing else works.
See attached pictures.
Happy Camping !
.
.
The screws we use these days for the jack brackets, the rear camper door, and the roof latches are a tempered marine grade screw that has an anti-rust coating applied to it.
They have been working excellent the past few years !
In the very rare occassions in the past where we used stainless steel screws it eneded up being a really big hassle to do it correctly. What most people don't know is that the stainless steel screws are very soft. When installing the stainless steel screws on a new camper, the guys in our shop have to be SO careful not to over tighten them or the screw head will break off. It defeats the purpose of changing the screws out in the first place. We have done quite a bit of homework and talked to a few experts of that industry and what we are using now seems to work well for our purposes.
If you have access to a dremel and a small cutting blade for it, you might be able to notch the tip of the broken screw and use a small screw driver to back it out ?
We have done this many times with the jack bracket bolts.
But the screws on the roof latches are a bit smaller, so i'm not sure how much room you have to get a small blade on it ? Maybe worth a try of nothing else works.
See attached pictures.
Happy Camping !
.
.
Attachments
pods8
Contributors
Personally if you can't back the screw out I'd be inclined to flush it to the surface of the camper then use a punch to put a slight indent in the center and then drill it out, perhaps slightly oversize if needed. Then just use the next larger screw size when reinstalling.
The screws we use these days for the jack brackets, the rear camper door, and the roof latches are a tempered marine grade screw that has an anti-rust coating applied to it.
They have been working excellent the past few years !
Stan I seem to recall a WTW poster pointed this product out to you a few years back? However I forget the details, would you mind sharing who makes these?
The screws we use these days for the jack brackets, the rear camper door, and the roof latches are a tempered marine grade screw that has an anti-rust coating applied to it.
They have been working excellent the past few years !
Stan I seem to recall a WTW poster pointed this product out to you a few years back? However I forget the details, would you mind sharing who makes these?
fireball
Senior Member
How hard is it to move the latches up the camper a few feet to accommodate an awning install?
Kolockum
Still Wandering
I agree. I would try drilling it out with a left handed (reverse thread) drill bit, this is usually how I get bolts out of an engine block and header. If it goes well the drill bit will bite into the the bolt/screw and extract it. If that doesn't work keep going and you will have a new hole to tap.pods8 said:
Bombsight
Senior Member
I'm going to put clear fingernail polish over EVERY exterior screw/bolt when I get mine as a sealant from corrosion. I go to the beach often. Clear fingernail polish is tough! I tried to buff down a small spot I used as clear coat on my 2003 Tacoma and underestimated just how tough it is by burning the paint down to the primer. darUglyScout said:
After re-reading Stan's [Post #8 in this thread] comment that marine grade/anti-corrosion screws are currently being used by FWC from at least June 2011 [date of post]; corrosion then breaking of screws hopefully should be a thing of the past...unless you arm-strong them when tightening screws or over-tighten the latch and reef it closed...
Nail polish is good idea; not certain I will coat the thousands of screws exposed on my Hawk...but the concept is a good one, thanks.
Phil
Nail polish is good idea; not certain I will coat the thousands
of screws exposed on my Hawk...but the concept is a good one, thanks.Phil
Similar threads - WTW
- Jon R
- Four Wheel Camper Discussions
- Replies: 7
- Views: 640
- Altitude530
- Gear Exchange
- Replies: 5
- Views: 2K
