"I use levelers from Andersen Mfg.
http://www.andersenhitches.com/
They are a little on the expensive side. There is a chock to slid in when you are level and to keep the truck from rolling off. They have a video you can watch. John"
Me too-and things work fine!kmcintyre said:I too got those "lego" block kind. They are cheap and work pretty well. The only time I've had trouble is when I'm on something that's not even close to being level; yes Yellowstone, I mean you! .
I actually carry 12 2x8s probably about 14" long with bevels on both ends. I find that I can climb about 3 high when they are staggered and I can lock in another stack if I need to go higher (which is more common than not). Having a few large flat rocks lying around always seems to help too.alano said:4 2x6s about 18" long with a 45 deg bevel at one end. Works most, but not all, of the time. When they start to crack, I will look into the plastic options.
LookyLou said:3/4" plywood cut into 9"x12" rectangles.
If you can get your hands on LVL (laminated veneer lumber), it works great for leveling blocks. Sometimes you can pick them up at framing job sites. Or you could even buy an 8' piece and chop it up. I've got a collection of varying thickness, ranging from 1 1/4" to 2" thick, cut with a bevel on one end. They will not crack like dimensional lumber. I even put some primer on my blocks last year when I was doing another paint job and had a wet brush.alano said:4 2x6s about 18" long with a 45 deg bevel at one end. Works most, but not all, of the time. When they start to crack, I will look into the plastic options.
I usually put the truck in 4X4 when I drive up on my Lynx Levelers, especially when the levelers are under the front wheels.craig333 said:Blocks are another reason for having 4wheel drive. A number of times I've had to engage 4low just to get up on the blocks. I do camp in some very unlevel areas on occasion. Once I had to use the entire stack on one wheel just to get level.