Riverrunner
Senior Member
Thanks for the report, photo's and detail. I've added a few more to my list of places to visit.
March 2013 CA-NV-OR Loop of MarkBC
- Thread starter MarkBC
- Start date
Dughlas Stiubhart
It's good to be Stew
Great report and photos, Mark. As a old-time visitor to the Great Basin and the Black Rock, I do enjoy your desert-rat travelogs!
Lighthawk
Weekend warrior
A great read, thanks for taking us along, Mark.
Those pano's are pretty cool too.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Those pano's are pretty cool too.
Looking forward to the next installment.
SunMan
King Taco
Looking forward to the next installment.
x2
x2
OP
OP
Thanks for your patience and encouragement, all!
I made a quick trip out of town for a couple of days, got back this P.M., and am working through the last set of photos...to be posted tomorrow.
And I'm NOT drawing this out for dramatic effect -- REALLY!
I made a quick trip out of town for a couple of days, got back this P.M., and am working through the last set of photos...to be posted tomorrow.
And I'm NOT drawing this out for dramatic effect -- REALLY!
And I'm NOT drawing this out for dramatic effect -- REALLY!
Why not?
Why not?
OP
OP
OK, even though it may cause me to miss my flight to Georgia...I gotta finish this sucker! So...
Tuesday, March 26
I bid fond farewell to the mouth of McGill Canyon and headed north on the Jackson Creek Road to its junction with the Leonard Creek Road and pavement.
Looking back south at the freshly-snowed Jackson Mts:
Referring to the map I previously posted, so we don't get lost:
Leonard Creek Rd leads up to NV 140, which I followed NW up to Denio, NV and then north into Oregon.
I stopped for truck fuel, drinks, and chips at Fields Station. I didn't get food at the Cafe...I was pretending to be on a diet (so why the chips?
).
While paying for the supplies, I asked Ray (brother of proprietor Sandy and brother-in-law of proprietor Tom) about what's new at the Alvord Hot Springs, wondering if the rumored and dreaded "development" by the land owner, the Alvord Ranch, had begun. He said (though he hadn't seen it himself): "Yes".
Ray told me that there's now a caretaker building there, caretaker/attendant, $5 fee to use the hot springs, and a bright light at night. Ray said that the Ranch says, "If this doesn't work out for us we'll just take a dozer and fill in the pools."
This is a very sad development for those of us who know and love this great eastern Oregon feature...the end of an era of many decades. This really kinda breaks my heart, and that's no foolin'.
I didn't drive up there to see for myself...I'll see it...eventually.
I was tentatively planning on camping that night at the Hot Springs Campground at Hart Mt. Refuge. While still at Fields, a couple from Eugene driving a motorhome told me they had driven across from Hart Mt, that the road was fine...they also mentioned that they were out there because it was spring break for Oregon schools, which I hadn't remembered. Hmmm....I thought.
Spring break -- that's when desert-loving folks from the Valley (which in Oregon means the Willamette Valley, in western Oregon where most people live) are more likely to make the long drive out east. Hmmm....maybe the campground will be busier than I like. Where might I go instead?
Driving on, NW over a low pass of the southern Steens into the Catlow Valley and then north. I stopped at the southern end of the Steen Mt. Loop Road, just for a break:
Turned off OR 205 and headed SW towards Hart Mt:
And reached the boundary of the Refuge:
I stopped at the Refuge HQ visitor center (unstaffed, but open 24/7/365!) to use the facilities (I never turn down running water and flushing) and see if there was anything new in their "museum". In all the years I've been visiting there I've NEVER seen anyone in the compound. There are some cool stone residences there and all the usual road-maintenance equipment, etc...but they must be staffed by ghosts or some other kind of invisible beings.
On west towards the brink, where the road drops down over the edge of the scarp to the Warner Lakes Valley 2000 feet below. I'd decided I might camp down there...possibly in an area at the north end of that basin that I'd never visited. But before I went over the edge I drove up on a 4X4 road than I'd never taken before, up to a spot with a great view.
I shot a 360° panorama up there. Here's a thumbnail of one panel of that pano:
Here's a link to the full 360° pano: Pano 20
This pano includes the view down (west) at the Warner Lake Valley, 2000 feet below. Looking north along that huge west-facing scarp you can see my destination for that night: at the foot of the dark and precipitous Poker Jim Ridge.
Surprising to see this specimen this early in the season -- late March is NOT usually spring yet at 6000 feet in the Oregon desert:
So...Tuesday, March 26
I bid fond farewell to the mouth of McGill Canyon and headed north on the Jackson Creek Road to its junction with the Leonard Creek Road and pavement.
Looking back south at the freshly-snowed Jackson Mts:
Referring to the map I previously posted, so we don't get lost:
Leonard Creek Rd leads up to NV 140, which I followed NW up to Denio, NV and then north into Oregon.
I stopped for truck fuel, drinks, and chips at Fields Station. I didn't get food at the Cafe...I was pretending to be on a diet (so why the chips?
While paying for the supplies, I asked Ray (brother of proprietor Sandy and brother-in-law of proprietor Tom) about what's new at the Alvord Hot Springs, wondering if the rumored and dreaded "development" by the land owner, the Alvord Ranch, had begun. He said (though he hadn't seen it himself): "Yes".
Ray told me that there's now a caretaker building there, caretaker/attendant, $5 fee to use the hot springs, and a bright light at night. Ray said that the Ranch says, "If this doesn't work out for us we'll just take a dozer and fill in the pools."
This is a very sad development for those of us who know and love this great eastern Oregon feature...the end of an era of many decades. This really kinda breaks my heart, and that's no foolin'.
I was tentatively planning on camping that night at the Hot Springs Campground at Hart Mt. Refuge. While still at Fields, a couple from Eugene driving a motorhome told me they had driven across from Hart Mt, that the road was fine...they also mentioned that they were out there because it was spring break for Oregon schools, which I hadn't remembered. Hmmm....I thought.
Driving on, NW over a low pass of the southern Steens into the Catlow Valley and then north. I stopped at the southern end of the Steen Mt. Loop Road, just for a break:
Turned off OR 205 and headed SW towards Hart Mt:
And reached the boundary of the Refuge:
I stopped at the Refuge HQ visitor center (unstaffed, but open 24/7/365!) to use the facilities (I never turn down running water and flushing) and see if there was anything new in their "museum". In all the years I've been visiting there I've NEVER seen anyone in the compound. There are some cool stone residences there and all the usual road-maintenance equipment, etc...but they must be staffed by ghosts or some other kind of invisible beings.
On west towards the brink, where the road drops down over the edge of the scarp to the Warner Lakes Valley 2000 feet below. I'd decided I might camp down there...possibly in an area at the north end of that basin that I'd never visited. But before I went over the edge I drove up on a 4X4 road than I'd never taken before, up to a spot with a great view.
I shot a 360° panorama up there. Here's a thumbnail of one panel of that pano:
Here's a link to the full 360° pano: Pano 20
This pano includes the view down (west) at the Warner Lake Valley, 2000 feet below. Looking north along that huge west-facing scarp you can see my destination for that night: at the foot of the dark and precipitous Poker Jim Ridge.
Surprising to see this specimen this early in the season -- late March is NOT usually spring yet at 6000 feet in the Oregon desert:
OP
OP
Here's a detail map of the Hart Mt and Warner Lakes Valley area, showing some highlights:
After dropping down to the Valley floor I took a road that I'd never been on before, which (mostly) crawls along in a narrow zone between the shallow lakes (or lake beds, depending on the water that year) and the base of the scarp.
I passed one other rig, parked off to the side, and had to skirt or storm through a few mud-holes...though nothing too scary -- as we know, I don't like to get stuck! And I reached the Stone Corral. I'd never heard of it before, and I know nothing about it...but it looks quite old, and has been there long enough that they named the nearby lake for it:
This corral is circular...and so, I felt it would be interesting to shoot a 360° panorama from its center -- so I did (only more-or-less centered, however). Thumbnail of one view:
Link to full 360° panorama: Pano 21
There was a herd of feral horses in the area...maybe instinctively and perversely drawn to the corral
. The stallion checked me out for a while, trying to figure out if I was a threat.
After 6 miles (from the main Warner Valley Rd) of slow travel I reached my destination at the foot of Poker Jim Ridge. The road splits, and the main "through" road continues on along the base of the scarp. I know where it re-joins the pavement, between Burns and Frenchglen...to be explored another time.
I followed a spur of the road that lead out to and into Bluejoint Lake...though it looks like it's been a long time since it was a wet lake.
I stopped and camped at the edge of the "lake", which I referred in a Facebook posting as "the yellow sea".
Of course, I shot a panorama at this cool spot.
Thumbnail:
Link to full 360 pano: Pano 22
The cliff is 2000 feet high!
I spotted this broken point lying in the road:
After it was too dark to even try to shoot pics I went inside the camper to eat, etc.
Before dark I'd noticed some horses grazing out in "the yellow sea" (yes -- sea horses), and when their day was done they attempted to leave that area...only to find me -- an intruder even less native than they are -- blocking their standard path. (even though they could have easily walked around me and not come within 200 yards.
) Oh, the stamping and whinnying and galloping back and forth that ensued! They seemed quite upset...but eventually "found" a way around my camper.
After dropping down to the Valley floor I took a road that I'd never been on before, which (mostly) crawls along in a narrow zone between the shallow lakes (or lake beds, depending on the water that year) and the base of the scarp.
I passed one other rig, parked off to the side, and had to skirt or storm through a few mud-holes...though nothing too scary -- as we know, I don't like to get stuck! And I reached the Stone Corral. I'd never heard of it before, and I know nothing about it...but it looks quite old, and has been there long enough that they named the nearby lake for it:
This corral is circular...and so, I felt it would be interesting to shoot a 360° panorama from its center -- so I did (only more-or-less centered, however). Thumbnail of one view:
Link to full 360° panorama: Pano 21
There was a herd of feral horses in the area...maybe instinctively and perversely drawn to the corral
After 6 miles (from the main Warner Valley Rd) of slow travel I reached my destination at the foot of Poker Jim Ridge. The road splits, and the main "through" road continues on along the base of the scarp. I know where it re-joins the pavement, between Burns and Frenchglen...to be explored another time.
I followed a spur of the road that lead out to and into Bluejoint Lake...though it looks like it's been a long time since it was a wet lake.
I stopped and camped at the edge of the "lake", which I referred in a Facebook posting as "the yellow sea".
Of course, I shot a panorama at this cool spot.
Link to full 360 pano: Pano 22
The cliff is 2000 feet high!
I spotted this broken point lying in the road:
After it was too dark to even try to shoot pics I went inside the camper to eat, etc.
Before dark I'd noticed some horses grazing out in "the yellow sea" (yes -- sea horses), and when their day was done they attempted to leave that area...only to find me -- an intruder even less native than they are -- blocking their standard path. (even though they could have easily walked around me and not come within 200 yards.
OP
OP
Wednesday, March 27
Getting on home day.
Before I hit the road I checked out this abandoned farm implement at the edge of the Yellow Sea:
I backtracked 6 miles back to the "main" road, stopping a few times to look at stuff, stuff that I hadn't noticed on the way in the evening before and/or stuff that looked different in the morning light.
Lots of opportunities for lichen-on-basalt pics in southeast Oregon:
This is either Stone Corral Lake or Campbell Lake. Whatever it is, I shot a (partial) panorama. Thumbnail:
Full-size image: Pano 23
I noticed a large broken egg perched on a roadside boulder:
I'm no expert, but it looks goose-size to me (my hand to provide scale):
Speaking of large birds, the evening before I heard the distinctive sound of Sandhill Cranes off in the distance.
Reaching the Warner Valley/Hart Mt road I headed off on the shortcut to the Hogback Rd and US 395 (shortcut if you're headed north), and I stopped to shoot a bit in this scenic spot...where I've stopped many times before.
This is where the road cuts across the Valley, at the south edge of Flagstaff Lake. Looking back, east/south-east, at the west-facing Hart Mt scarp towering 2000 to 2500 feet above the Valley. Partial panorama, thumbnail:
Full-size view: Pano 24
I followed the Hogback Road to US 395, which it joins just north of and with a slight view of the very-cool Abert Lake. Then on north to the junction with US 20 at Riley (where I bought gas for the first time -- because I had to), and on home to Bend.
It was another fine high-desert, northwestern Great Basin trip! Made even better by driving some new roads and visiting some new country!
THE END.
Getting on home day.
Before I hit the road I checked out this abandoned farm implement at the edge of the Yellow Sea:
I backtracked 6 miles back to the "main" road, stopping a few times to look at stuff, stuff that I hadn't noticed on the way in the evening before and/or stuff that looked different in the morning light.
Lots of opportunities for lichen-on-basalt pics in southeast Oregon:
This is either Stone Corral Lake or Campbell Lake. Whatever it is, I shot a (partial) panorama. Thumbnail:
Full-size image: Pano 23
I noticed a large broken egg perched on a roadside boulder:
I'm no expert, but it looks goose-size to me (my hand to provide scale):
Speaking of large birds, the evening before I heard the distinctive sound of Sandhill Cranes off in the distance.
Reaching the Warner Valley/Hart Mt road I headed off on the shortcut to the Hogback Rd and US 395 (shortcut if you're headed north), and I stopped to shoot a bit in this scenic spot...where I've stopped many times before.
This is where the road cuts across the Valley, at the south edge of Flagstaff Lake. Looking back, east/south-east, at the west-facing Hart Mt scarp towering 2000 to 2500 feet above the Valley. Partial panorama, thumbnail:
Full-size view: Pano 24
I followed the Hogback Road to US 395, which it joins just north of and with a slight view of the very-cool Abert Lake. Then on north to the junction with US 20 at Riley (where I bought gas for the first time -- because I had to), and on home to Bend.
It was another fine high-desert, northwestern Great Basin trip! Made even better by driving some new roads and visiting some new country!
THE END.
SunMan
King Taco
Nice BIG loop and storyline, thanks for the effort, hope you don't miss that flight!
OP
OP
Nice BIG loop and storyline, thanks for the effort, hope you don't miss that flight!
Thanks. My flight is actually 1pm tomorrow...but I do have to drive to Portland to get it, and -- as usual -- I'm not packed yet.
Thanks. My flight is actually 1pm tomorrow...but I do have to drive to Portland to get it, and -- as usual -- I'm not packed yet.
takesiteasy
Senior Member
I enjoyed your report. The panos are great- really give a sense of the wide open horizon. I will have to visit the Hart Mountain Refuge some day. My daughter spent a summer camped there in college, catching birds, banding and counting them for an annual bird count that has been going on for a couple of decades. It was a great experience for her.
Nice BIG loop and storyline, thanks for the effort, hope you don't miss that flight!
Thanks much for the fun and enjoyable trip report................now get packed and don't miss your flight. Have fun in Georgia.
Thanks much for the fun and enjoyable trip report................now get packed and don't miss your flight. Have fun in Georgia.
OP
OP
I noticed on the 3rd and 4th night you camped near King Lear. That has been on my peak to climb list for years!
James,
Many years ago...in the early/mid '90s, I think, my first visit to McGill Canyon, Jackson Mts, was in order to climb King Lear. And I did. I used John Hart's book, Hiking the Great Basin, as my guide. (this was the climb in shorts in which I severely scratched my legs, as I said earlier)
This climb was part of what became one of my very best trips EVER!
On this picture (taken on this recent trip -- the white speck is my truck/camper) I've drawn the route I took those many years ago...as I recall, anyway.
The dotted lines are supposed show where my route was hidden down in the valley (not in a tunnel
). The last hundred yards or so are 3rd-class...maybe 4th class. I was still actively rock-climbing back in those days, so it wasn't technically challenging...but the exposure was significant...and I was by myself...so any error might have had serious consequences. But no errors were made.
Just below the summit, on the way down, I saw some bighorn ewes -- quite close. This was either the first or the second time I'd ever seen bighorns...so just another thing that made this special.
Another animal encounter that made it special: I got back down to my truck and put on sandals to get in the creek to wash off, cool down. I walked a little ways up the canyon to where the vanishing creek was running strong. At one point I stopped and happened to look down at the ground. Less than a foot away from my nearly-bare foot was a coiled rattlesnake! I shot into the air kinda like a rocket -- instinctively, and came down a safe distance from the beautiful reptile. Now, I like snakes -- including rattlesnakes...but this was and still is my closest accidental encounter with a rattler.
(that is, not counting the 2 times I've intentionally touched a rattlesnake).
James,
Many years ago...in the early/mid '90s, I think, my first visit to McGill Canyon, Jackson Mts, was in order to climb King Lear. And I did. I used John Hart's book, Hiking the Great Basin, as my guide. (this was the climb in shorts in which I severely scratched my legs, as I said earlier)
This climb was part of what became one of my very best trips EVER!
On this picture (taken on this recent trip -- the white speck is my truck/camper) I've drawn the route I took those many years ago...as I recall, anyway.
The dotted lines are supposed show where my route was hidden down in the valley (not in a tunnel
Just below the summit, on the way down, I saw some bighorn ewes -- quite close. This was either the first or the second time I'd ever seen bighorns...so just another thing that made this special.
Another animal encounter that made it special: I got back down to my truck and put on sandals to get in the creek to wash off, cool down. I walked a little ways up the canyon to where the vanishing creek was running strong. At one point I stopped and happened to look down at the ground. Less than a foot away from my nearly-bare foot was a coiled rattlesnake! I shot into the air kinda like a rocket -- instinctively, and came down a safe distance from the beautiful reptile. Now, I like snakes -- including rattlesnakes...but this was and still is my closest accidental encounter with a rattler.
highz
Retreaded
Really nice trip report with some great panos. Thanks, Mark. Have fun on your trip down South.
craig333
Riley's Human
Thanks for finishing up. Any antelope on the refuge? I guess I skipped it on my trip report but I stopped at the Alvord hot springs. Much as you described. Bench by the pool, some rims in the pool to sit on. Nice gravel path out to it. Guy follows me out to the pool, wasn't sure who he was until he says it's 5 dollars for a dip. I declined and headed on out.
firemen7
Senior Member
Mark, your trip report makes me want to load the FWC and head to the high desert. I really enjoyed this report and have added it to my list of places to explore. Thank you
OP
OP
Thanks, all.
I'll print out his pic next time I attempt this coveted desert summit. Our ascent of "faux" King Lear Peak was epic and probably rivals your true ascent. Spending an entire day trying to match up a map and written description to the wrong canyon/peak takes great skill and lots of imagination not to mention a steady diet of Ranier Ice. Come to think of it that Ranier Ice was responsible for a lot of derailed adventures on this expedition.
Oh, to be young and reckless again...
Oh, to be young and reckless again...
Dughlas Stiubhart
It's good to be Stew
Many years ago...in the early/mid '90s, I think, my first visit to McGill Canyon, Jackson Mts, was in order to climb King Lear. And I did.
Hey, Mark, love the route photo and the climbing tale! We tried getting to the top of King Lear from the east maybe 10 years before you were there. We drove up a dirt road along Ceder Creek as far as we could, set up a dusty car camp only to be chased away by rain in the morning. On the way down, one of our vehicles got its second flat and we had to drag the tires miles up the road to a friendly rancher to have them patched and pumped. After fixing the tires, the rancher didn't want any payment but he did request we leave my friend's son behind for a few years so they would have enough kids in the area to keep the local school house open.
On that same trip (and a few other times) we drove over the Jackson Range from the east, going up Trout Creek, over the divide by the ruined mines, and then down Jackson Creek to the route you followed. Every time I've been along Jackson Creek there has been running water and cottonwoods to camp under--a great find near the Black Rock! I just wondered if you had been up Jackson Creek on your wanderings, Mark?
Last fall, three of my geezer friends from Tahoe (one from our '80s trip) did manage to complete our route on Lear from the east, but, alas, without me.
King Lear Peak from the east in 2012.
Hey, Mark, love the route photo and the climbing tale! We tried getting to the top of King Lear from the east maybe 10 years before you were there. We drove up a dirt road along Ceder Creek as far as we could, set up a dusty car camp only to be chased away by rain in the morning. On the way down, one of our vehicles got its second flat and we had to drag the tires miles up the road to a friendly rancher to have them patched and pumped. After fixing the tires, the rancher didn't want any payment but he did request we leave my friend's son behind for a few years so they would have enough kids in the area to keep the local school house open.
On that same trip (and a few other times) we drove over the Jackson Range from the east, going up Trout Creek, over the divide by the ruined mines, and then down Jackson Creek to the route you followed. Every time I've been along Jackson Creek there has been running water and cottonwoods to camp under--a great find near the Black Rock! I just wondered if you had been up Jackson Creek on your wanderings, Mark?
Last fall, three of my geezer friends from Tahoe (one from our '80s trip) did manage to complete our route on Lear from the east, but, alas, without me.
King Lear Peak from the east in 2012.
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