modifications

[Skysix]

After about a year of living in an '84 10' CO rear side dinette model I have discovered a few design things I would like to change on a rebuild. But has anyone else have any ideas that they have discovered?

- Push/pull pins and steel plates to lock the camper in down and up position
- Additional "runners" at the midpoint of the sides to assist in keepin top sides from splaying out
- Move rear "runners" inward so closer to the edge of the door frame to prevent rear spreading and so on when peeps haul themselves in using the doorframe
- Rear vent much larger (like a school bus roof hatch but with bug screen) so can be used as an escape hatch when the roof is down, as well as roof access hatch
- Latches at top and bottom of lower door, linked together
- Operating rod that extends from upper door latch to above where the lower door sits when lowered so can be opened from inside (some later models had this)
- Window in lower door with bug screen on inside (so can have be removed replaced when top lowered - and so can reach through to access upper door window to open etc when lowered)
- Inflatable flat hose surround on lower half top outer area so can be inflated (once up) to seal better against bugs and (when down) against road dust
- Side windows in front side/front flip up sections (later models have)
- 12v and USB power points, additional 110v power point
- Bug screen insert behind fridge vent outer panel
- Longer metal support of cabover (extending back along top of rear portion) so not as much stress on wood screws of metal brace on front wall
- 110v and RV connect plugs relocated to passenger side (110) and rear (RV)
- teak 1/2" x 2" runners the full length of the bottom that match ridges in pickup bed floor to keep up main floor ply out of condensation and rain/water etc.
- Replace all latches with marine ones to keep stuff closed when off-road
- Better securing of fridge and stove/oven against off-road motion/bumps
- Euro style flexible slats on cabover under foam for spring and to allow airflow/prevent condensation in winter
- Better roof insulation (than pink fiberglass - later models have foam), and ply strips full length on either side of hatches (marked above on aluminum as "load bearing" to allow securing stuff and walking etc.
- Rigid foam insulation of lower walls and floor
- Double windows for insulation with tinting for less heat transfer inwards
- All screens "petscreen" for durability against tree branches

 

[Ripperj]

You have some good ideas here. I am 80% done with my 8' cabover rebuild. I built the lower section from scratch(every nut,bolt screw) I extended the cabover 2' for north/south sleeping and tried to come up with way to take the stress off the cabover angle brackets, but failed. I decided to make some external props that are installed once the roof is up. I am still toying with an idea to tie the upper rear part of the side flip up panels to the mid point of the lower section with cables, will make a strong triangle.
I like the inflatable seal idea, did you come up with a material?

I looked at big roof hatches, but didn't find anything I liked, so I added a second Fantastic fan in the cabover.

 

[Ripperj]

I was also trying to figure a simple way to connect the two doors, a simple hasp would work if the hinge pivot points were on the same line, but they are not.
Re the double windows, I bought 8 new windows from Motion Rv(Peninsula Glass) I originally wanted the double pane, but the frames were thicker and I didn't think they would clear the lower section. They are also heavier(the single panes are heavy to start) and more expensive.(the 8 I got were $2500 shipped from Wa to Ct)I bought the 2 big 58x18 side windows, four 12x24 for the cabover and front lower section, and the two for the doors. The quality is very high, and the shipping crate was impressive

 

[Ripperj]

Window pics

 

[Ripperj]

The crate

 

[Skysix]

Thanks - loved your thread BTW. Stored all pics for reference! Especially using stainless exterior hardware/brass interior. Also wondering about sealing all the wood frame before adding the panels, and the panels on both sides before mounting. Then another coat before placing insulation and sealing. Also gorilla glue of all joints and screws. Butyl tape / plumbers putty under all external flush fittings.

I am looking at making the support a full length box section of aluminum with teak inside (no rot) running down the top of the lower section. Also at having the front flipup be the last thing to move, ideally as a flip down instead of up to allow use as an escape as well as open in hot weather (bugscreen and nylon tent like panel that can be 100% perimeter velcroed in). Some marine or school bus hatches are ok, and there is a 22 or 24" version of the standard 14" rv hatch that is an escape hatch. Also a roller style petscreen with velcro 1/2" strips either side and bottom - mounted above the rear door so can be pulled down/pressed against strips on wall to allow the upper door to remain open without bugs!

Playing with the idea of a LandRover series 3 style desert aluminum roof with an air gap that follows the roof lines down the curve until it is parallel with the sides of the camper. Then mounting flexible solar panels directly to it. Also re-using the old hatch covers (aluminum) as are flat and light proof (I work nights so day sleep wthout light is a plus) so they are flush with the desert roof. Sealed at the front so no dirt/bug buildup in places I can't get to easily. Fortunately the 5/4 ton can handle the weight easily.

Also a compartment that I can place a portable style air conditioner (about 10" square/30" high) that has 5" flex ducts to pull in and exhaust exterior air for the radiator) for when plugged in that can be swapped with a similar size swamp cooler for battery/offgrid use.

Along the sides of the fleetside bed ahead of the wheels (both sides) I am planning to placing a set of batteries on each side (4 group 31) then a fitted custom insulated water tank that extends back to where the Alaskan wall is at the rear of the wheel well. Those two will gravity drain into the normal tank in the camper via standard hoses and be filled directly from the gap between the box and the cab (also where the interior tank vent will be). Will shift some weight forward and keep it low.

Keeping the old school Thetford PortaPotty for really bad weather but no dedicated USAGE space, just a storage cupboard. External shower area to have awning roof/sides that go almost to ground on all 4 sides and a slide out 300# capable platform on the pax side (under the fuel tank) they attach to. Allows water drainage onto ground and will double as external toilet. Keeps it outside - an idea I got from some Romany caravans.



You have some good ideas here. I am 80% done with my 8' cabover rebuild. I built the lower section from scratch(every nut,bolt screw) I extended the cabover 2' for north/south sleeping and tried to come up with way to take the stress off the cabover angle brackets, but failed. I decided to make some external props that are installed once the roof is up. I am still toying with an idea to tie the upper rear part of the side flip up panels to the mid point of the lower section with cables, will make a strong triangle. I like the inflatable seal idea, did you come up with a material? I looked at big roof hatches, but didn't find anything I liked, so I added a second Fantastic fan in the cabover.

 

[Florida]

Be careful with that 'big hatch'. I had one on the XP and it blew off on a windy highway in Wyoming even though it was latched down. When I looked at the pieces I could see that the latch system really didn't have much to hold onto, and the plexiglass had a bit of flex. $2000 fixed it . It was a gorgeous skylight while it lasted, which was about five months.


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