I have been working on learning about our new to us (2007) Hawk this summer. The fridge has been a constant battle. I have never had it working where it cools to the point I like. It does cool just not well enough. On our first trip it stayed lit while travelling down the road O.K., and seemed to cool just O.K. not great but acceptable, of course it was our first trip out and still was cool in the early Spring and we were using the buddy heater at night, so it really did not have to work that hard to be cooling just O.K. as the summer went on performance declined to unacceptable.
I followed one of the instructions here for cleaning the burner and was looking at all the tin/baffles behind the fridge and thought they were restricting air flow behind the fridge too much
I removed baffle (15) thinking that the heat building up behind fridge would exit the vent easier. I did this before finding this image in the install manual. Needless to say performance on our Labor day trip to OK was miserable temp in the fridge was up to 80 and nearly all items got moved to an Ice cooler brought along. Temps out side was up to 100 so it was cooling around 20 degrees which seems to be the best performance I have achieved. One of the biggest problems I noticed by doing this was the flame did not stay lit at all while travelling.
So more adjustments. I took the burner apart and cleaned it again, It does seem to work but I question if the flame is strong enough. It does light well with the igniter on the front fridge panel and the thermocouple has a red glow in pict
From the service Manual - found here - http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/n300.pdf it states
" The thermostat is not an automatic gas control. .... If the cooling load changes, you must manually change the gas control to maintain the same temperature inside the refrigerator." Where do you make this change to the gas control?
I also cleaned the flue with a bore bush, - be careful of dropping it down there ;-) and put the tin baffle back in place and sealed up the top of the fridge so ho heat/exhaust would get trapped above the fridge.
Original seal on top of fridge,
With 3M tape rated at 300 deg.
Put the baffle back in after trimming it down to 7in cut off about 3in that was just folded over by upper fins on fridge, now it looks more like the diagram. Also taped the edges of it to make all air flow through fins on fridge.
I put in an indoor/outdoor thermometer over the weekend and have been trying to log the temps on gas/electric still only getting about 20 deg cooling vs outside temps. Only seeing modest gains on the adjustments I have made. Did I do something wrong or missing anything, or is this just the limited performance I can get from this 3-way.
I think I have nearly done all I can do short of having a tech check the ammonia levels, or pull the fridge out and roll it around to 'burp' it. I think if it does get pulled out a 24v/110v compressor one will replace it.
Frustrated.
I followed one of the instructions here for cleaning the burner and was looking at all the tin/baffles behind the fridge and thought they were restricting air flow behind the fridge too much
I removed baffle (15) thinking that the heat building up behind fridge would exit the vent easier. I did this before finding this image in the install manual. Needless to say performance on our Labor day trip to OK was miserable temp in the fridge was up to 80 and nearly all items got moved to an Ice cooler brought along. Temps out side was up to 100 so it was cooling around 20 degrees which seems to be the best performance I have achieved. One of the biggest problems I noticed by doing this was the flame did not stay lit at all while travelling.
So more adjustments. I took the burner apart and cleaned it again, It does seem to work but I question if the flame is strong enough. It does light well with the igniter on the front fridge panel and the thermocouple has a red glow in pict
From the service Manual - found here - http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/n300.pdf it states
" The thermostat is not an automatic gas control. .... If the cooling load changes, you must manually change the gas control to maintain the same temperature inside the refrigerator." Where do you make this change to the gas control?
I also cleaned the flue with a bore bush, - be careful of dropping it down there ;-) and put the tin baffle back in place and sealed up the top of the fridge so ho heat/exhaust would get trapped above the fridge.
Original seal on top of fridge,
With 3M tape rated at 300 deg.
Put the baffle back in after trimming it down to 7in cut off about 3in that was just folded over by upper fins on fridge, now it looks more like the diagram. Also taped the edges of it to make all air flow through fins on fridge.
I put in an indoor/outdoor thermometer over the weekend and have been trying to log the temps on gas/electric still only getting about 20 deg cooling vs outside temps. Only seeing modest gains on the adjustments I have made. Did I do something wrong or missing anything, or is this just the limited performance I can get from this 3-way.
I think I have nearly done all I can do short of having a tech check the ammonia levels, or pull the fridge out and roll it around to 'burp' it. I think if it does get pulled out a 24v/110v compressor one will replace it.
Frustrated.