The fuse/breaker size depends on the size of the wire you run. It needs to be smaller than the max ampacity for the wire.
Which solar charge controller are you using?lmwilco1 said:I have a slightly different problem that could use a similar solution. I have the Renogy DCC50S DC-DC charger, 2 170W Rich Solar panels, and a Progressive Dynamics Lithium changer for my 190AH LifePO4 battery. The Progressive Dynamic charger is effectively a 14.6v power supply. I was thinking about connecting it in parallel with the solar cells so when the converter had power it would be able to charge the battery using he charging profile of the DC-DC charger.
This seems to be a pretty similar use case to what is done in the thread, and thoughts if this is workable?
I looked at those too when I installed mine. Set it low enough so that it would never try to engage if your starting battery was draining... anything less than 11.5V looks dangerous to me, so that is where I set the bottom number. Top number I set to something above my fully charged Optima Yellow top sits at... so that if it is higher than that, the alternator must be running. 13.8v works for me.buckland said:Installed the Victron Orion-Tr Smart non-isolated DC to DC charger... removed my Blue Sea 7622 ACR. just a quick question: In the settings. Default is LiFePo4
Is there a specific voltage to set the Input Voltage at? As it is adjustable (as is the shutdown detection voltage).