My Montana summer

kcowyo · Feb 21, 2008

A couple of days later, my supplies were running low. I had made the error of heading for the end of the road with only enough provisions for a couple of days. At the suggestion of a fellow camper, I drove back down to Polebridge in hopes of finding supplies at the Mercantile store. Turns out I got more than I needed in Polebridge.

The Mercantile had a phenomenal bakery inside. And the Northern lights Saloon served gourmet dinners and beer in mason jars. In a couple of days the village was hosting Aurorafest, their big summer concert. Local and national musicians come to play in this beautiful valley next to the Flathead River. This was beginning to seem like my kind of place.

I quickly met some locals and was offered a free campsite by the river if I wanted to stay for the week and attend the concert. The food from the bakery was so good and the free spirits of the village drew me in. I stayed and had a wonderful time. Sleeping in, lazy walks to the Merc for lunch, napping in the afternoon, a swim in the river then to the Saloon for dinner and drinking beer from a mason jar all night. Fascinating talks with people from various backgrounds and some lost souls in this village of pop. 50, run soley on gas generators, with no electricity.

The concert was a great experience with several bands highlighted by a reggae troop out of Seattle. Man, you just haven't lived until you've danced under a full moon in the middle a lost valley in Montana, to the upbeat tunes of a 10 piece reggae band. So even though I thought I wanted solitude, turns out I was needing an authentic experience. I got one in Polebridge.

Polebridge and Aurorafest -

kcowyo · Feb 21, 2008

I wound up spending 5 days in Polebridge. I somehow wound up hanging out with a nice family from Missoula, who were up for the week and some of their local friends. It was a great time full of lazy days, fascinating people and Huckleberry Bearclaws, my favorite treat from the bakery.

The concert was amazing. Great musicians, awesome weather, and fun people all around. The rest of the week I spent time writing, taking pictures and soaking up the experience. And drinking. Lots of whiskey and beer. Big partiers at the end of the road.

When the week was over I hated to leave. I didn't need to but I didn't see how it could get any better than that. And that week made me feel like maybe there was an even better experience down the road. So I regretfully left Polebridge, with a pocket full of phone numbers and email addresses for my new friends. It was a wonderful time.

More Polebridge....

Yours truly, loving those Huckleberry Bearclaws -

....more to come -

chnlisle · Feb 21, 2008

More great stories and pix. Jermiah Johnson would envy you. I know I do.

erod · Feb 21, 2008

awesome kc, great report...reminds me of a similar event in babb, mt. we have got to party/camp/hang sometime! cheers and thanks for the pics and adventure!

chnlisle · Feb 21, 2008

OK KCO, I searched the Overland Journal site and cant find the hat. Where do we get the hat.

Tomas Tierra · Feb 21, 2008

KC,
What a great rip through Montana I just had, thank you.

More great reasons to get out and "Wander the West".

So much to see within the confines of this great country!

Do you carry extra fuel??

TT

137buck · Feb 21, 2008

thanks for the thread, we were there in 2005 and i can not wait to return again, i thought the same thing about the first time i pulled into polebridge, but after listening to the kids whinning about getting out of the truck to walk around, we stopped and found one of the best bakery places i have ever had, and the people were more than friendly too....it diffiently is a must do trip imho....Paul

kcowyo · Feb 21, 2008

Jay, the hat I received for being a 'charter member' of the magazine, ie I signed up for a two year subscription right out of the gate. I scored that fashionable hat and a big ol' sticker as part of the deal they were offering. I know they've been talking about doing some merchandise, so maybe hats will be available from them soon.

"You skin Grizz, pilgrim?" Coolest thing anyone has said about me. Gracias.

erod, seems like we're constantly tripping over each other's trails. I passed through Babb on the east side of the park. Another cool, middle of nowhere Montana town. We will tip a few one of these days.

Tomas, I still haven't resolved my extra fuel issue. For now I'm using the 'on a wing and a prayer' method. I have to get that resolved. It was more of an issue in Utah than Montana. Finding gas in MT wasn't a real problem. Even Polebridge had a 100 gallon drum with fuel for purchase.

I am thinking about throwing caution to the wind and mounting a 2.5 gallon gas can carrier on the back wall of the FWC, even though I don't have the wall reinforced. But 2.5 gallons would be plenty for extra fuel. That would give me an additional 30 mile range which should be enough to find a gas station. Plus at 15lbs total, it would be lighter than a 5 gallon can so hopefully it won't damage the camper. And if I'm not gonna need it, I can leave it at home. I think about the extra fuel thing waaaaay too much...

paul, very cool that you've been to Polebridge. I would love to see it in the winter. I understand a lot of folks from Whitefish, Kalispell and Missoula go up there for cross country skiing in the winter. I was shocked to hear that a few parents in Polebridge drive their children to school down in Columbia Falls everyday in the winter. Could you imagine? Driving that road everyday? Maybe a fair trade to have access to that bakery everyday though. Mmmmm....

I've got some more pics and another story from my trip back to WY. I'll be getting those up soon -

lqhikers · Feb 22, 2008

Marc · Feb 24, 2008

KC ...

It might not be PCH but you sure have some beautifull country in your back yard as well. I hope to be in West Yellowstone at the end of May to do some Fly Fishing with an old buddy who guides out of Bud Lilly's Trout Shop. Nice pics and write up.

Marc

kcowyo · Feb 25, 2008

I don't know if you saw the single rack i made to carry 1- 5 gal gas can.It might work for you or anyone who does not want to mar out side of camper,as it mounts using jack bracket and bottom of camper,easy to remove or mount with 4 bolts....

Les, lqhkers

I did see that and I practically stared a whole in your pictures to see if that would work for me too. Unfortunately, I don't have the jack brackets. I think it may be worth adding one to try your solution. I also liked your idea of adding another receiver tube to the receiver hitch and making a slide in basket-carrier. Actually, I like all of your creative touches.

Les, if you and Marc and any other members are ever planning to be in my neck of the woods, please let me know. I'd love to try and catch up, so I could oogle your set-ups, warm my feet by your fire and trade tales of the trails.

kcowyo · Feb 25, 2008

More Montana -

After my time in Polebridge, where a new friend basically took me like a dishrag and wrung out all of the negative energy I've been filled with and then soaked me up with positive thoughts, feelings and energy, it seemed like it was time to move on and see what other unexpected gifts this trip had to offer. I didn't want to leave but I didn't want to miss out on another opportunity for a surreal experience.

I've somewhat recapped my route in a previous post so I'll just mention some impressions from my trip south, back to Wyoming -

On 8/20 I found a great campsite on Lake Koocanusa, north of Libby, MT. Clear, crisp water, the loons were calling (and I keep thinking Katherine Hepburn is right behind me. "It's me, you old poop!"), the trout were jumping at dusk and a warm breeze joined me for the evening. Don't get too excited, but after dark I even went for a quick naked swim in complete defiance of my inhabitions. As I splashed around, looking up at the stars, letting a lot of inner crappola float away and completely soaking up the experience (and dealing with shrinkage....****ing glacier water...) I could only think how proud my new friends in Polebridge would be to see me so relaxed and not trying to make sense of everything
Paid $3.46 for a large chocolate shake in Sandpoint, Idaho. When I asked if I had been accidently charged for 2 milkshakes, I was told the amount was correct. I asked if there was a milk shortage or a shake shortage or a foreign war with cows for milk, but all I received was a blank stare. When I explained that I could get a gallon of 91 octane gasoline next door for only $3.35, the hapless counter wench simply said, "Oh. But we don't sell gas." Unreal. In an attempt at being discreet, I won't mention the name of the restaurant, I just took my McFleecing and got the McHell out of there
Obviously many of our west coast members are familiar with huge fires and what the smoke does to the sky. For the mid-west folks, the sky looks like a huge dust storm has just blown through and the east coasters would think it similar to when a big factory is on fire. Occaisionally a blood red dot will peak through the smoke. This is cool for about 10 minutes. After that you start to feel like you're driving on faith with a blindfold on. It also makes everywhere really, really hot which I'm not into
The postmaster in tiny Wisdom, MT has no arms below his elbows. This gave me reason to pause when I needed postcard stamps because it seemed like it was going to be an effort just to mail something. He did wear a unique looking set of prosthetic arms, including one that looked like it had a pintle hook on the end. He capably provided me with my 2 stamps and change, then as if reading my mind (or more likely, having seen the look on my face a hundred times before) he stated, "Yup, I can do anything with these that a normal man can do." He paused and then added under his breath with a snort, "Except spank the monkey like I used to!" I thought about asking how that worked out for him, but he was still grinning from his joke and I didn't want to kill the obvious highlight of his day, shocking a tourist. So I left, content with the thought that somewhere out in this vast country, there is at least one government employee who was actually working instead of jerking off
You have to love a western town like Ennis. They have a greeting sign when you arrive that reads, "Welcome to Ennis! Population 600 - Trout 11,000" This is a good place to spend some time
Why do campgrounds have Men & Women's vault toilets? Is there something special in the women's outhouse not offered to men? Seat liners, feminine products, gas masks? Before I finish this trip I'll work up the courage to ask a ranger or peek in one for myself

On the side of the road, near the town of West Yellowstone, I met Dan. Dan is a vagabond carpenter living out of his custom '84 Toyota truck and camper with his big *** German Sheppard, Rugun. He referred to himself as homeless (which I won't because I think it has a negative connotation) and has been living out of his truck for 6 years. I stopped because the camper and snorkel caught my eye as I passed but it had the hood up. The truck looked like a well outfitted old school rig. This was one interaction I was going to force. Two hours later I had completely checked out this truck and got an unintentional lesson on living life so close, or far depending on your perspective, to the edge.

Wired and wirey Dan had from a distance, this cobbled looking truck made of a homemade steel camper body, homemade bumpers and homemade snorkel. But in the ultimate proof of "it's what's underneath that counts", this thing had the most tricked out 22R and engine bay I've seen. Thousands and thousands of dollars of Downey and LC Engineering upgrades, a custom air and fuel system, I mean the thing was unbelievable! All the parts and ARB compressor were powdercoated black and complimented with red finishes, plus stainless steel lines and hoses. The suspension was all AOR springs & shackles, Bilstein 7100 remote resevoir shocks, u bolts flipped, diff cages, etc. Dan spends a lot of his off time in Moab, living and rolling. His truck and his dog are his life and he's not asking for anymore than that. Very interesting guy and after a two hour discussion left me with, "I'm 53, never been married, no kids and no home. I am spiritual and I do a good job for people. I don't have much and probably never will. I just think we should all go through life with grace."

I swear I can't make this **** up.

kcowyo · Feb 25, 2008

For this portion of the trip, I'm pasting in comments and thoughts from my journal at the time. This leg covers my journey south, from Glacier NP back Yellowstone NP. Random, real time thoughts as I reflected on my trip so far and my introduction to Dan. - KC

"The injustice of travel is having to chose to stay or go."
- read on an Outhouse wall in Polebridge

After my time in Polebridge, it seemed like it was time to move on and see what other unexpected gifts this trip had to offer. I didn't want to leave but I didn't want to miss out on another opportunity for a surreal experience.

On 8/20 I found a great campsite on Lake Koocanusa, north of Libby, MT. Clear, crisp water, the loons were calling (and I keep thinking Katherine Hepburn is right behind me. "It's me, you old poop!"), the trout were jumping at dusk and a warm breeze joined me for the evening. Don't get too excited, but after dark I even went for a quick naked swim in complete defiance of my inhibitions. As I splashed around, looking up at the stars, letting a lot of inner crappola float away and completely soaking up the experience (and dealing with shrinkage....freakin' glacier water...) I could only think how proud my new friends in Polebridge would be to see me so relaxed and not trying to make sense of everything
I paid $3.46 for a large chocolate milkshake in Sandpoint, Idaho. When I asked if I had been accidentally charged for 2 milkshakes, I was told the amount was correct. I asked if there was a milk shortage or a shake shortage or a foreign war with cows for milk, but all I received was a blank stare. When I explained that I could get a gallon of 91 octane gasoline next door for only $3.35, the hapless counter wench simply said, "Oh. But we don't sell gas." Unreal. In an attempt at being discreet, I won't mention the name of the restaurant, I just took my McFleecing and got the McHell out of there
The truck and camper are performing very well. I have 3 screws on the galley faceplate that shake loose after time on washboard roads. I have far more loose screws in my own head, so I tend not to worry about these too much
You could make a lot of money in Montana, if you sold Subaru Outback Wagons or fly fishing vests
The postmaster in tiny Wisdom, MT has no arms below his elbows. This gave me reason to pause when I needed postcard stamps because it seemed like it was going to be an effort just to mail something. He did wear a unique looking set of prosthetic arms, including one that looked like it had a pintle hook on the end. He capably provided me with my 2 stamps and change, then as if reading my mind (or more likely, having seen the look on my face a hundred times before) he stated, "Yup, I can do anything with these that a normal man can do." He paused and then added under his breath with a snort, "Except spank the monkey like I used to!" I thought about asking how that worked out for him, but he was still grinning from his joke and I didn't really want to know anyway. So I left, content with the thought that somewhere out in this vast country, there is at least one government employee who was actually working instead of jerking off
You have to love a western town like Ennis. They have a greeting sign when you arrive that reads, "Welcome to Ennis! Population 600 - Trout 11,000" This is a good place to spend some time
Why do campgrounds have Men & Women's vault toilets? Is there something special in the women's outhouse not offered to men? Seat liners, feminine products, gas masks? Before I finish this trip I'll work up the courage to ask a ranger or peek in one for myself

kcowyo · Feb 25, 2008

Part II -

On the side of the road, near the town of West Yellowstone, I met Dan. Dan is a vagabond carpenter living out of his custom '84 Toyota truck and camper with his big German Sheppard, Rugun. He referred to himself as homeless (which I won't because I think it has a negative connotation) and has been living out of his truck for 6 years. I stopped because the camper and snorkel caught my eye as I passed but it had the hood up. The truck looked like a well outfitted old school rig. This was one interaction I was going to force. Two hours later I had completely checked out this truck and got an unintentional lesson on living life so close, or far depending on your perspective, to the edge.

Wired and wirey Dan had from a distance, this cobbled looking truck made of a homemade steel camper body, homemade bumpers and homemade snorkel. But in the ultimate proof of "it's what's underneath that counts", this thing had the most tricked out 22R and engine bay I've seen. Thousands and thousands of dollars of top of the line Downey and LC Engineering upgrades, a custom air and fuel system, I mean the thing was unbelievable! All the parts and ARB compressor were powdercoated black and complimented with red finishes, plus stainless steel lines and hoses. The suspension was all AOR springs & shackles, Bilstein 7100 remote reservoir shocks, u bolts flipped, diff cages, etc.

Dan spends a lot of his off time in Moab, living and rolling. His truck and his dog are his life and he's not asking for anymore than that. Very interesting guy and after a two hour discussion left me with, "I'm 53, never been married, no kids and no home. I am spiritual and I do a good job for people. I don't have much and probably never will. I just think we should all go through life with grace."

I swear I can't make this stuff up.

Mark W. Ingalls · Feb 25, 2008

Awesome!

I apologize, KC...

I have been so wrapped up with enjoying your prose and photos that I forgot all about dropping a little note of appreciation.

But now, please continue! This is great stuff!

erod · Feb 26, 2008

kc, great updates! i love wisdom! i'll be there tomorrow briefly on our way to lost trail for the rest of the week, camping in the parking lot, hot springs, where ever! that is so ironic that you have met dan, him and i have crossed many paths, many times, most recently at the bozeman public library...he loves the fwc and i too get in long conversations with him every time we meet...his rig is sweet! well built, simple, stout. i actually gave him one of the atc business cards the last time i saw him, i thought he said he was thinking about getting rid of his topper and upgrading (whatever that means), interesting dude...anyway, great posts, thanks again!

kcowyo · Feb 26, 2008

...that is so ironic that you have meet dan, him and i have crossed many paths, many times, most recently at the bozeman public library...he loves the fwc and i too get in long conversations with him every time we meet...

You have got to be kidding me.... I guess I shouldn't be too surprised because he told me he spends some time in Bozeman. But that's really cool you've met him too. And yeah, he geeks out for the FWC. He is a real character. Certainly one of the more interesting people I've met on the road.

We actually bumped into him again last year near Big Sky, where he was repairing some fencing on some huge ranch. It was good to see him again and doing so well.

That's just too cool erod. Has Claire met him? I don't think Mia believed me when I told her about him until we met up with him a second time. Something else for you and I to discuss whenever we get to a campfire....

DirtyDog · Feb 28, 2008

Small world. I saw Dan at the watering hole just outside Moab in Spring of 06.

Fantastic report KC.

My Montana summer

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