Glenn
Advanced Member
Wow! So I really hate making a post this long but need the reader to know where I’m beginning, Some of this may be wrong. I have been researching and trying to get up to speed the best I can. I’ve done automotive and household electric- my late Father was a journeyman electrician and spent most of my growing up years holding a flashlight?
So just recently joined WTW and am hoping I can ask for some experienced help. I started a “New Build” thread for my truck and topper, but have no experience in “house batteries”, DC to DC, or Solar as I’ve always tent camped in the past
I know this is a little (a lot) long so bear with me please..?
I was looking at Renogy sites, and had a customer service person recommend their 50A DC to DC w/MPPT. But after reading forums there were a lot of folks who said it was better to separate the two into separate systems into a DC to DC and a PWM Solar charge controller that didn’t see each other.
Part of the reasoning as I recall was on a cloudy day with minimal solar input, it keeps the DC to DC from charging its full charging amperage as Renogy’s system is a 50/50 split.
I do have a 7.3PSD with a 110A alternator and it uses a Glow Plug Regulator and provides high amperage to the glow plugs for the first few minutes, before and after starting. and drops the voltage significantly , which was intended by FORD to protect the glow plugs from high voltage.
My plan is to use a 60A normally closed relay that will power the DC to DC charger, and using a (+) wire from the GPR to activate the coil, opening the circuit to the DC charger. Then when the glow plug relay shuts off, power is no longer supplied to the coil of the relay / DC to DC charger relay and it will close the circuit again allowing it to do its thing depending on the state of charge in my 280 AH Lithium LiFePo4 battery (that I have already purchased.) I mocked up a board of the batteries dimensions to make sure it would fit.
Mu truck (2002 F350) has two starting batteries, and after the initial voltage drop of the glow plugs and starter motor, the voltage quickly comes back to 13.7 to 14. Volts with no heavy loads being pulled.
Q. If I’m on the right track that leads me to which brand dc to dc charger and how how many amp charger to get, 20, 30, 40 ?
Then for solar panels on my topper roof I am currently looking at these:
offgridstores.com
They would fit nicely, staggering the raised rib down the middle of the topper roof. My plan would be to use aluminum T track and 3M 5200 marine adhesive to secure them to the roof, and an end cap on the front to stop air lift from underneath.
Q. Am I right to believe fixed panels are much better than flexable? I know recent improvements have been made on the flex panels.
I am open to suggestions, The dimensions of the above panels are my limit on size. I will be running two panels.. I also need advice on which PWM charge controller?
Q. I was thinking I would run the two panels in Parallel, keeping the voltage the same. Is this best for the occasional 3 to 5 day trips in planning or would wiring in Series be better?
I know my dc to dc charger needs to be close to the house battery. I have a good understanding of electrical and know how to size the appropriate wire given amperage load, fuse selection, length of run, and voltage drop.
All of my Electical hardware is going into the cabinet on the Left side of the truck bed and I am cutting holes and adding vents for ventilation, along with a heating pad for the battery in extremely cold temps.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read and for advice to set me in the right direction. It is much appreciated ?
Glenn
So just recently joined WTW and am hoping I can ask for some experienced help. I started a “New Build” thread for my truck and topper, but have no experience in “house batteries”, DC to DC, or Solar as I’ve always tent camped in the past
I know this is a little (a lot) long so bear with me please..?
I was looking at Renogy sites, and had a customer service person recommend their 50A DC to DC w/MPPT. But after reading forums there were a lot of folks who said it was better to separate the two into separate systems into a DC to DC and a PWM Solar charge controller that didn’t see each other.
Part of the reasoning as I recall was on a cloudy day with minimal solar input, it keeps the DC to DC from charging its full charging amperage as Renogy’s system is a 50/50 split.
I do have a 7.3PSD with a 110A alternator and it uses a Glow Plug Regulator and provides high amperage to the glow plugs for the first few minutes, before and after starting. and drops the voltage significantly , which was intended by FORD to protect the glow plugs from high voltage.
My plan is to use a 60A normally closed relay that will power the DC to DC charger, and using a (+) wire from the GPR to activate the coil, opening the circuit to the DC charger. Then when the glow plug relay shuts off, power is no longer supplied to the coil of the relay / DC to DC charger relay and it will close the circuit again allowing it to do its thing depending on the state of charge in my 280 AH Lithium LiFePo4 battery (that I have already purchased.) I mocked up a board of the batteries dimensions to make sure it would fit.
Mu truck (2002 F350) has two starting batteries, and after the initial voltage drop of the glow plugs and starter motor, the voltage quickly comes back to 13.7 to 14. Volts with no heavy loads being pulled.
Q. If I’m on the right track that leads me to which brand dc to dc charger and how how many amp charger to get, 20, 30, 40 ?
Then for solar panels on my topper roof I am currently looking at these:
![offgridstores.com](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Foffgridstores.com%2Fcdn%2Fshop%2Fproducts%2FRICHSOLARMEGA100SLIMSOLARPANEL1_625x625_5421c151-b134-4b6a-a5b4-649627b7f1a3-253656_1200x1200.webp%3Fv%3D1700106596&hash=babd7e09bc1e8d71820e4e30d176c263&return_error=1)
Rich Solar MEGA 100 Watt Slim Monocrystalline Solar Panel
Buy premium quality Rich Solar Mega 100 Slim Solar Panel RS-M100SL for only $129.99 at Off Grid Stores. Free Shipping!
![offgridstores.com](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Foffgridstores.com%2Fcdn%2Fshop%2Ffiles%2Ffavicon-32x32_5c79ba70-4b0b-4157-8a91-a0c7f0cde0b7_48x48.png%3Fv%3D1688749121&hash=6b3b5385eca7d2b344ff18f94afe74ab&return_error=1)
They would fit nicely, staggering the raised rib down the middle of the topper roof. My plan would be to use aluminum T track and 3M 5200 marine adhesive to secure them to the roof, and an end cap on the front to stop air lift from underneath.
Q. Am I right to believe fixed panels are much better than flexable? I know recent improvements have been made on the flex panels.
I am open to suggestions, The dimensions of the above panels are my limit on size. I will be running two panels.. I also need advice on which PWM charge controller?
Q. I was thinking I would run the two panels in Parallel, keeping the voltage the same. Is this best for the occasional 3 to 5 day trips in planning or would wiring in Series be better?
I know my dc to dc charger needs to be close to the house battery. I have a good understanding of electrical and know how to size the appropriate wire given amperage load, fuse selection, length of run, and voltage drop.
All of my Electical hardware is going into the cabinet on the Left side of the truck bed and I am cutting holes and adding vents for ventilation, along with a heating pad for the battery in extremely cold temps.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read and for advice to set me in the right direction. It is much appreciated ?
Glenn
Attachments
Last edited: