New Hawk Quirks

[pvstoy]

Not sure if the bedboard was from a manufacturer or FWC applies the finish to it. Sounds like there was something on the surface that did not get cleaned preparatory wise before it was adhered to. If it was a supplied product to FWC they trust that they are getting the best product.

Sometimes wood just has some water or stuff still there to cause some grief.

Glad you got some compensation that put a smile on your face.

 

[craig333]

I do believe they get it that way from the supplier.

 

[Wallowa]

I do believe they get it that way from the supplier.

The outside skin comes installed from a supplier? FWC does not attach the outside surface to the camper?

 

[Jon R]

I don’t think I updated that. Not enough glue during installation which happened to a few campers. They are fixing them by replacing it with diamond plating. It’s purely aesthetic. being tucked away like it is and out of sight I was fine with the thermal pack compensation instead of a long trip for a days worth of repair.

Diamond plate? If you ever make a mistake removing or installing the camper and tilt it forward and touch it to the top of the truck cab, it will do a lot ot paint damage.

 

[Jon R]

Thanks...adhesive failed. Not good advertisement for FWC.

Not steel diamond plating? Way heavy.

Aluminum diamond plate is pretty light. I have some bed rail caps made out of it on my old truck.

 

[Wallowa]

Aluminum diamond plate is pretty light. I have some bed rail caps made out of it on my old truck.

OK...to confirm it is aluminum diamond plate...I had never seen this on a FWC; thanks Jon.

 

[Jon R]

OK...to confirm it is aluminum diamond plate...I had never seen this on a FWC; thanks Jon.

I don’t know that they used aluminum diamond plate - I was just pointing out it is available. I assume that’s what they would use versus steel. Perhaps they are using the stuff they put on the outside of the Project M?

 

[Jzack605]

Yes i assumed it was the same diamond plate you see on the project M

 

[Jzack605]

Look, things happen. They were willing to make everything right as they should per the warranty.

The challenge for me, and many, is distance from their support. So they adjusted for that and made it right. But in hindsight for me, the warranty would not be a factor in buying new or not due to that distance.

 

[CPT Davenport]

I ran a furniture restoration business for years and have dealt with my fair share of loose veneers. I would suggest injecting some adhesive into the bubbles and wedging a block between cab and platform acting as a clamp.

 

[Jzack605]

I ran a furniture restoration business for years and have dealt with my fair share of loose veneers. I would suggest injecting some adhesive into the bubbles and wedging a block between cab and platform acting as a clamp.

That was my first thought but they said they tried that and it failed?

I’m willing to give it a go still. Any product recommendations?

 

[CPT Davenport]

That was my first thought but they said they tried that and it failed?

I’m willing to give it a go still. Any product recommendations?

Being a boat guy, my go to is a marine epoxy resin. You can gently warm the epoxy and hardener separately before mixing. This will lower the viscosity allowing it to flow better. I would ask FWC what adhesive they used and make sure that an epoxy product wont melt the laminate. You can also slice the bubble with a razor to gain better access for applying the adhesive. Make sure to use some plastic between the "clamp block" and the repair, as you don't want to glue the block to your roof. Proceed with caution as working with epoxy requires some knowledge and experience of the product its companion cleaners (lacquer thinner) You don't want to make the situation worse.

A more "user friendly" product would be using Titebond 3 as the adhesive. It is water based and clean up can be done with good old H20.