No more turnbuckles.

[bobva]

Go with your comfort level how you will mount your camper.

WOW comfort level, mount,camper,

well why not just use some glue drop the camper and call it good.

motorhomes and travel trailers,buses, cars, truck cabs, beds are BOLTED TO THE FRAME NOT TIN

 

[chnlisle]

Not a Ford!!!

 

[pvstoy]

Not a Ford!!!

Sorry Jay,

Did I cross the line into the Dodge / Ford territory.

I apologize and will watch my step in the future.

 

[John D]

ScottBailey, Your method of bolting the camper is probably fine. Alaskan campers does it that way. Their floor is similar to yours and their campers are quite a bit heavier. I would suggest you give Alaskan a call and ask them about their experience with bolting their campers. I think they would endorse what you are doing. But you could check to be sure.

I had not given the washboard road problem any thought and all. On our last trip, just this winter, we went over a lot of washboard road. Your comments make me paranoid and I want to run outside and check my turn buckles!

I have never thought turn buckles are the best way to tie in my camper. There are some very good systems that hold much heavier campers than ours in place which allow for quite a bit of flex between the camper and truck. I still think the best system for our light weight popup campers is to use appropriate synthetic rope looped through the eye bolts twice and finished by passing the tail through a well fared hole to a cleat inside where it can be easily tightented or loosened as desired. John D

 

[bobva]

I sleep overnight and rethought about this and I came up with the best answer I can think of.
Take you truck and camper to

a good body shop for the bed strength (metal fatigue and stress)

you insurance company

and the state patrol

 

[John D]

ScottBailey, Out of curiosity, I talked to a guy at Alaskan Camper about the method you are using to secure a camper to your pickup bed. They use a large fender washer under the bed. He said the only time there was any noticable problem such as cracking from fatigue is when people go off road and even then it did not represent a risky situation.

I sould suggest you watch the attachment points and reinforce things if it becomes necessary. You have four attachment points. Most likely, all will not fail at once. It will become self evident if the through bolt method you are using needs beefing up.

In addition to what has been written in this thread, I think FWC has used a similar method of attachment. I acknowledge the concerns of some people. Nevertheless, I would be satisfied if my camper were fastened as you have done. John D

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Almost all of the older FWC's I have ever seen come through here (1970's - 1990 or so FWC's) were bolted to the floor.

Back in those days they didn't have access ports or use the turn buckles we do today.

They usuailly only put 4 elevator bolts through the floor with no extra reinforcement plates (just washers).

No problems, seemed to work great. I'm sure there are hundreds and hundreds of old FWC's still running around out there today with those same bolts holding the camper on the truck.

Even today when a customer wants their new camper bolted down, we are using the elevator bolts.

Pretty good system, but a bit more difficult to take the camper on & off (especially getting the bolt in the same holes when putting the camper back on).

The way Scott did it looks really good. I can't see the camper going anywhere unless the entire camper floor comes off

(BTW: I have never seen this happen)








.

 

[ScottBailey]

All:

Thank you for your responses.

It is my intent to err on the side of caution. Of all our trucks, mine's cargo/load capacity -- 3400 pounds, no kidding -- may be highest. When I bough the truck, I knew some camper was in the future and I wanted my truck well within CYA loading. This mounting is a vast improvement over factory. As such I believe I meet the minimum safety requirement for paved travel.

Based on Pat's (pvstoy) pictures and mounting, I expect this system to work fine for my uses; however, I will keep my mind on safety and an eye on my mounting. If this doesn't work, I'll move to C-channel or go larger on the bottom plates.

I am freeway testing it this week and will return to the aforementioned campground soon for a trail test. I will check the mounting every few initial trail miles and before transitioning on/off pavement.

I will keep you posted regarding my findings and experience.

Bobva:

I appreciate your concern. I emailed Happijac and never got a response. I read the HJ instructions and was not compelled. I had a choice: wait until I had $550 saved for Happijac mounts or spend $40 and go camping.

If needed, I'll improve my mounting to spread the load and/or catch the cross members. You'll notice from the picture I'm only an inch or so away from the frame bolted bed cross member. This is the same for all 4 plates.

As far as my insurance and the state: an installation stronger than factory is all they'll like use as a data point. Now, a good body shop... That's a good idea. Next time it's convenient, I'll do this.

Yes, Pat should have used different wording than "comfort level", since safety is involved. That said, he's wheeled his camper hard and believes bed mount is sufficient. So, the safety issue is probably moot to him.

JohnD:

LAWNMOWERMAN has a story of dropping his camper out the back of his truck on a trail. My takeaway: you should check your turnbuckles regularly. Especially on washboard roads. Make it part of your checklist...

One reason for going to direct mount is quick, easy visible mount verification: just look under the truck. I couldn't easily/quickly do that with hidden turnbuckles! Checking this is part of my travel checklist.

Thanks for checking with Alaskan!

BTW, I'm of the opinion that your rope mount -- or shoelace mount! -- is an improvement over the turnbuckles.

Pat:

I love the truck: you're a fool to sell it!!! Ah, sorry. Thanks for the data points. How sturdy is your Toyota bed?

Jay:

Yes, it's a Ford. I'm not really a Ford guy so much as an American Full Size Solid Axle Guy. So Ford, Dodge, older GM is all the same to me...

Stan:

Thanks for chiming in. I haven't tested it yet, but I'm sure the camper comes off almost as fast. Furthermore, I suspect the camper will center faster using drift pins. It takes me forever -- or at minimum, 30 minutes -- to center right now...

 

[bobva]

Scott

thank you

Im the guy that always thinks, there is a better way when it comes to safety

When it comes to road safety ITS do it the best way or stay off the hiway

 

[bobva]

by the way guys Im a sheet metal worker by trade so I know metal
during layoffs sometimes I drive tow truck Ive seen alot of stupid stuff on vehicles (somebody tryin to save a buck you cant take it with you)

 

[LAWNMOWERMAN]

I indeed have had the ultimate tiedown failure.The camper falling out of my truck was a result of the corners of my bed ripping the pinch welds and not the turnbuckles coming loose.I have rectified that situation with 1/4" gusseted plates secured to the bed floor and front wall. After doing this I have had no problems with the turnbuckles.If you own a T-100 I suggest that you make a similar modification.I agree with Scott and check my turnbuckles frequently.

 

[ScottBailey]

Just got back from the test trip. The road was in slightly better shape, but the test was still good. I'm happy with bolt through. I will probably eventually replace the bottom plates with a larger size (e.g. 6x6 or 8x8) to catch the supports. I still need to go take a real close look...

 

[pvstoy]

Just got back from the test trip. The road was in slightly better shape, but the test was still good. I'm happy with bolt through. I will probably eventually replace the bottom plates with a larger size (e.g. 6x6 or 8x8) to catch the supports. I still need to go take a real close look...

Thanks for the update….

That would be up to you for larger plates. Stock set up with eye bolts have a smaller washer under the truck bed. The turnbuckle set up can apply more torque to the bolt and washer when the camper moves and drags the anchor for that eyebolt.

Your case the camper has clamping force and the camper is not moving to pull. You should be fine with what you have. I have less on the under side than you and have been through the ringer. Also airborne and landing all twisted up at different rates driving over the 500 pound cow elk. Took the camper off last month to get the front bumper back on and I have found no problems. Just the same as it was first mounted early 2001.

 

[BSS]

I like it so much I bolted mine down the same way yesterday. Right down to the off-white paint. Thanks for the inspiration.

I haven't taken her for a drive yet, but I already think I'm going to replace the plates under the bed with either bar stock or angle iron to tie the bolt points together in pairs. I think it will pretty much eliminate any chance of the bolts ever pulling through the bed or developing stress cracks.

Am I overthinking things? Probably. I just have this harrowing fear of slamming on the brakes in 50 mile an hour freeway traffic and watching my camper tear out and fly overhead into the back seat of the Kia in front of me.