4-18 to 5-16 trip notes
On the first night at Wild Horse Reservoir, we got a big surprise: 3 feet of snow on ground and low of -4 F; ouch! Showers. Let me clarify the “showers” references; I can go years without a shower, but not my Bride and I am clever enough to understand the significance of providing shower and laundry opportunities for her. Prompts marital tranquility.
Cathedral Gorge CG; OK, but lots of people. Showers.
Drove past “Massacre Meadows’; not a direct connection to me but my GG grandmother was Lucy Ward of handcart fame. Sad historical location.
I carried the full 6+20 gal of water in Hawk plus a 7 gallon water jug. Bought a Wavian [sp?] Jerry can, put 4.5 gallons of fuel in it and secured it behind the passenger seat. No fuel odors or spills and fuel never needed; averaged 13 mpg. With 26 gallons in Tundra that gave me a conservative 285 mile range.
Stopped at St. George Costco for fuel [best price and easy in and out] and food; topped off propane bottle in Hurricane enroute to Pipe Springs CG. One propane bottle lasted us for 26 days.
Pipe Spring is first rate in every aspect. Showers
Drove out to Whitmore Canyon past Bar 10 Ranch. CR 109 from SR389; CR5 through Potato Valley [some mud and many deep ruts] down the 3 mile “dugway” to Mt. Trumbull School, originally Bundyville; rich history and photos inside. Then 1045 to the end of the road overlooking the river at the mouth of Whitmore Canyon. Beautiful lower desert flora and fauna BUT on second day the “Insects” arrive: ATVs, AKA hopped up Dune Buggies; that day 61 vehicles stormed into parking area and most of the occupants were obnoxious in a variety of ways. So much for peace and quiet.
Back out 1045 and up the dugway to Nampaweep; spent the night at trailhead. Petroglyphs are outstanding. Caution: ‘dugway’ just out of Trumbull school is very narrow, rough and will ruin your day if another vehicle is coming. We got there at 0730hrs to ‘beat the traffic’.
Had 7 days of reservations at Tuweep; campsite #2 has privacy, view and is level. Hiked everyday for 3-4 hours East of CG; do go to view the “charcoal oven” about 3.5 mi East of CG. I dislike, no abhor, government controls of backcountry but NP limiting the number of people at Tuweep and excluding “Insects” was a very positive experience there.
Coming out we took CR 5 all the way to SR389; much better way in or out unless wet; dusty but less crash and bang than CR109. Great views.
Kanab we stayed at Kanab RV Corral. Downtown and showers/laundry. Owner nice guy and well maintained.
Entered Smokey Mt. Road at Big Water Utah. We had previously driven Cottonwood Cyn and Skutumph roads and I wanted to see the top of Kaiparowits; with an option to drive down Left Hand Collet Cyn to HITR. Kelly Grade at the South end of the road is indeed spectacular and caused me no end of angst least we meet another vehicle; like sections of White Rim Trail only much longer and more dire, Kelly Grade and beyond to top of plateau is one vehicle wide, no turn outs, steep and with endless blind curves. Get the picture? Bad news indeed if you meet a vehicle going in the opposite direction, backing down [descending vehicles have right-of-way] on that road would have been at best ugly if not fatal. The road below, West of, Left Hand Collet Cyn was an endless series of steep blind curves, narrow road, rock ledges that needed pitons, and pan busting imbedded rocks. Passable but bone jarring.
Ranger Shawn at Interagency center in Escalante said a ‘professional off road guide’ had tried to go down Left Hand Collet the day before we got there at the request of BLM and the road damage from record snows and subsequent runoffs had destroyed the upper section of the canyon. The guide spent hours piling rocks to construct a path down the canyon. Nix LH Collet. In fact after seeing the hoard of person entering HITR road and the reports of more that usual washboard we wrote off HITR. Been there before and I do not suffer crowds.
Stayed at Escalante Cabins and RV; yup, showers and laundry. Well run outfit. Escalante Outfitters Café was outstanding. Great food and good people.
Next we stayed three nights on Spencer Flat Road only 20 feet from an endless overview East down into the canyons. Take second left on Spencer off of Hwy 12, go to end, BLM marker, about 8 miles East of Escalante. Pure solitude and magnificent sunrises over canyons.
Hells Backbone Rd was closed due to mud, ice and snow; Ranger Shawn got stuck there just before we got to Escalante; fellow ranger almost slid off road getting him out. Scratch that route.
Entered Wolverine Loop off Burr Trail, Rd 110, spent night at trailhead to Lower Death Hallow Canyon and hiked down to head of canyon.
Next the much-awaited dinner at Hells Backbone Grill. Treat yourself and eat there; need reservations. We are returnees and had a great meal before hitting the road to Upper Muley Twist Cyn. and the Strike Overlook TH. Spent the night there and hiked the canyon; another must see location. Very special views of the Fold.
Rolled out early to get a spot at Cedar Mesa CG on Notom Rd; only 6 spots. Hiked to Red Cyn and had great sunrises over Henry Mts.
Torrey and 1000 Lakes RV; showers and laundry. No real groceries in Torrey but West to Loa on SR24 there is a great food market; Royals. Worth the drive, 16 miles.
Out early to Cathedral Valley to beat any crowds. Crossed Freemont stream [10” water] and since we had been there before opted to spend a few hours hiking and photographing then driving North on Last Chance Ranch road to spend night on bluff overlooking ‘Solomon’s Temple’. Oh, oh; it rained during the night and wind howled. Not good with Bentonite clay roads ahead to Hwy 70. Some tense moments getting to Hwy 70 next morning.
Camped at upper Sacramento Pass CG [site #10] off Hwy 50; great CG and fabulous views of Wheeler Peak.
Stayed at Hickison Petroglyphs Rec Area off of Hwy 50 just before Austin; no real level sites and the few petroglyphs were in sad shape.
Last night at a favorite of mine; Page Spring CG at West base of Steen Mt. Well maintained, as it is a wildlife refuge, many different birds and mammals in area. Frenchglen Hotel is closed until further notice and Steen Loop was also closed.
With 100ah BB/heated battery, DC-DC charger and 340 w of Zamp panels we never needed 110v and lowest draw down was to 89.9%. Total propane used was about 2.0 gals. Cooper AT3 tires at 65psi never missed a beat; carried the load and always had traction no matter the surface. What would I change? Find places with fewer people [good luck!] and stock in more chocolate.
Phil
