OSUFlyers Slow Keystone Remodel / Rebuild

[OSUFlyer]

I recently found a mid-80's FWC Keystone for sale locally at a great price. I was #2 in line and fortunately the camper wouldn't fit the first buyers truck. I drive an OBS Ford so luckily the camper fit just fine. I have owned a FWC Ranger II in the past, was working on a Roamin' Chariot project, but it was hard to pass up a ready to go camper for a deal.

In the tradition of many great WTW builds I started this thread to document my progress. I will mostly keep the camper stock for the short term so I don't miss out on the summer camping season; then dive into heavy remodeling this winter.

Short Term Projects

Get solar hooked up.
Move batteries to the right side to even out weight distribution
Replace jacks with mechanical Reico-Titans from my Roamin Chariot
LED Lights
Replace rubber propane lines and regulator
Make sure everything is camping ready
Truck Tie Downs

Long Term Projects

Interior- partial gut and rebuild with new cabinets, storage etc.
Exterior- paint/seal
Repair/Replace side liner
Replace the amazing plaid with newer cushions
Upgrade wiring to a Blues Seas fuse box and the usual modern electrical features
Replace 3-way with compressor fridge.
Replace or repair furnace: since I plan on using it for hunting / ski missions I would like a forced air system to help with humidity.

The camper itself is in great shape with no rot or funky smells that I have found. For being 25+ years old it is amazing how well it has held up. Even the stickers from the FWC Colorado days have held up.

It is pre pull-out bed, instead the bed flips up. I had never seen that before.

 

[OSUFlyer]

The camper came equipped with a set of very nice older 6V AGMS. It turns out one of them appears not to be holding a charge. It seems the old charger wasn't charging correctly for years. Any ideas on how to rejuvenate an old AGM before I decide to go spend the $$ on replacements?

I purchased a nice used set-up that included a Trimetric and a 15-amp MPPT solar controller from Harv (photohc). I will install them with the 2-100W Renogy panels I bought through the Renogy group buy. The 200W should be fine for me most of the year. However I am located in Western Wa. I am a little concerned they won't be able to keep up during the rainy season; but adding another panel would overload the controller I believe..

 

[Squatch]

Looks like a sweet find! Congrats.

My take on the batteries is to figure out the charging problem 1st with whatever old working 12 v battery you can come up with. Once that is done replace the batteries with new ones and enjoy the piece of mind. Old batteries of unknown origin are not worth the effort. You will regret the decision to save money when they fail at a very bad time. And that is ALWAYS when they fail. I'm cheap but try to pick non essential places to exercise that option. Just my .02.

 

[Woogybugger]

I am in a similar situation. Recently bought an early 1990s Keystone. In need of some electrical repairs but otherwise functional. It is truly in need of some esthetic work. The interior was painted super ugly. I will follow your threads. Maybe we could swap ideas.



Sent from my iPhone using Wander The West

 

[OSUFlyer]

Ordered a MaxxAir for one of my vents that I should hopefully get installed over the weekend along with starting on my solar. Has anyone had an issue from smoke color vents letting in too much light/heating the camper vs a white vent cover?

I am in a similar situation. Recently bought an early 1990s Keystone. In need of some electrical repairs but otherwise functional. It is truly in need of some esthetic work. The interior was painted super ugly. I will follow your threads. Maybe we could swap ideas.



Sent from my iPhone using Wander The West

Sounds great, these Keystones are great campers, the extra 1' of length seems to make a big difference.

 

[WyoIDI]

Sweet Keystone, and truck! I scored my grandby in a similar fashion, several people tried to shoehorn it into their newer trucks and I showed up with my OBS f350 and drove off like a bandit haha.

I've had no issues with my smoke colored vent. No noticeable heat and a nice mellow skylight. Look forward to see your build

On a side note, I installed my fantastic fan and solar at the same time and I was able to sneak the wires from my Renogy panel thru the fan opening. I was able to gently tighten the fan mounting screws on each side of the wire and apply a bunch of silicone. It has worked great and i didn't have to drill my camper roof.

 

[WyoIDI]

isn't the prettiest, but it doesn't leak at all and was simple to do

 

[MuleHawk]

That plaid is amazing! I would sport that with pride!


www.mulehawk.com

 

[OSUFlyer]

Did a little more work on the camper as I am anxiously awaiting UPS to drop off my Maxxfans. Replaced the dying 6volts with 2 Group 24 Exide AGMs, cheap at Bi-Mart! (FYI if anyone needs new batteries Exide has a $20 rebate right now) Started wiring up the solar controller and trimetric in a temporary location.

Also got a chance to inspect my roof. A little sagging but no obvious defects so will leave it alone until the winter when it will get fresh paint. Its hurting my brain to figure out where to place the Yakima tracks and the 2x100w Renogy panels to prevent shading from the roof vents. Adult tetris! Most of the solar threads have newer FWC's with more roof real estate.

Regarding the factory roof rack.. Do people actually use them? Thinking about possibly attaching one of the panels to the rack but I don't want to lose the rack if folks find them handy. It would be a great spot for a larger panel if I would have jumped on the cheap Solar Blvd 160w!

Sweet Keystone, and truck! I scored my grandby in a similar fashion, several people tried to shoehorn it into their newer trucks and I showed up with my OBS f350 and drove off like a bandit haha.

I've had no issues with my smoke colored vent. No noticeable heat and a nice mellow skylight. Look forward to see your build

On a side note, I installed my fantastic fan and solar at the same time and I was able to sneak the wires from my Renogy panel thru the fan opening. I was able to gently tighten the fan mounting screws on each side of the wire and apply a bunch of silicone. It has worked great and i didn't have to drill my camper roof.

I am planning on stealing your wiring install idea , at least for the short term. Then in the winter when i do more of a full refurbish I will probably drill holes when I repaint the roof.

Putting a Dana 60 under my OBS right now as it was the dreaded F250 TTB. Looked long and hard to find a crew cab like yours; but trying to find one if my neck of the woods that doesn't cost more than a Super Duty or was abused as a logging crummy is tough.

That plaid is amazing! I would sport that with pride!


www.mulehawk.com

Ha thanks! In order to keep things authentic I would like to re-upholster with new plaid, but I don't think that will win spousal approval.

 

[OSUFlyer]

Over the last week I had a chance to install the solar. I had difficulty figuring out the best way to fit the two Renogy 100w panels between the roof vents and factory roof rack. Since I didn't have access to any aluminum angle bars to mount the panels on traditionally mounted Yakima tracks I decided to mount the tracks width-wise between the two vents. Since I don't plan on carrying any cargo boxes or mount any other roof racks this should work for now.

I connected the two panels to a Morningstar 15amp Sunsaver MPPT solar controller using 10 gauge marine duplex wire. I had a tough time sourcing 8 gauge wire. The remote monitor seems to be always showing 19-20 volts coming off the panels. I still need to connect my Trimetric to get a good idea of what sort of amperage I am getting.

I also replaced the rear factory vent with a Maxxair 10-speed vent. I am really happy with end result. It does a great job moving air and I am happy I can use the vent during the PNW rainy winters. Unfortunately I found out the solar panels keep me from mounting another Maxxair due to the 8 inch rear overhang.

 

[WyomingJames]

Over the last week I had a chance to install the solar. I had difficulty figuring out the best way to fit the two Renogy 100w panels between the roof vents and factory roof rack. Since I didn't have access to any aluminum angle bars to mount the panels on traditionally mounted Yakima tracks I decided to mount the tracks width-wise between the two vents. Since I don't plan on carrying any cargo boxes or mount any other roof racks this should work for now.
I connected the two panels to a Morningstar 15amp Sunsaver MPPT solar controller using 10 gauge marine duplex wire. I had a tough time sourcing 8 gauge wire. The remote monitor seems to be always showing 19-20 volts coming off the panels. I still need to connect my Trimetric to get a good idea of what sort of amperage I am getting.
I also replaced the rear factory vent with a Maxxair 10-speed vent. I am really happy with end result. It does a great job moving air and I am happy I can use the vent during the PNW rainy winters. Unfortunately I found out the solar panels keep me from mounting another Maxxair due to the 8 inch rear overhang.

OSU, you may want to verify the required amperage for the Morningstar controller. I just installed a Renogy 200W (2- 100 watt) and they supplied a 30 amp controller. If you calculate the amps (200 divided by 12 is 16.66 amps.) it indicates it is right off going to be over 15 amps and no cushion for any spike increases from the solar panels. Just a suggestion.

 

[cannuk]

That plaid is amazing! I would sport that with pride!


www.mulehawk.com

I came here to say the same thing. I wish there was a plaid option now I have the plain blue. To bad the dimensions are not the same or I would take those plaid covers off your hands

 

[OSUFlyer]

OSU, you may want to verify the required amperage for the Morningstar controller. I just installed a Renogy 200W (2- 100 watt) and they supplied a 30 amp controller. If you calculate the amps (200 divided by 12 is 16.66 amps.) it indicates it is right off going to be over 15 amps and no cushion for any spike increases from the solar panels. Just a suggestion.

James I was worried about that also. However the Sunsaver instructions stated the controller can handle 200W. I called Morningstar to double check and they stated the 200W should be no problem either as the controller is designed to handle voltage spikes. I would like to add a portable panel at some point down the road; I will definitely will have to upgrade the controller then.

Last weekend myself and Mrs. OSU took the camper on its maiden voyage. I have to say the plaid is growing on me. We took several days to make a loop through North Central WA via the North Cascades Highway with a few nights in WInthrop area, Twisp River, over Blewett Pass at back home. After a night at home we met some friends at Yale Reservoir near Mt. St. Helens for some boating and camping.

We are headed out again soon for some bear hunting in NE Oregon. The trip allowed us to discover a few things that need improvement before we leave.

1. Mattress: I am fairly certain the 80's factory mattress is actually filled with concrete or some type of aggregate product. We are fairly young and I have to say it was tough to get decent sleep. We were surprised the mattress survived without being ripped out this long.

2. I have lift struts in hand, I need to install them soon. Roof was a little heavy once panels were added.

3. Remove the barely functional 3-way fridge and capture the space for storage.