Prepping a F250 and Hawk Camper for a Year on the Road

Love the setup Jkron. I 'm getting my Ford F250 delivered next month (March 10th)

2022 F250 SRW 4X4 SUPERCAB
XLT 148" WB
7.3L DEVCT NA PFI V8 ENGINE
10-SPEED AUTOMATIC
ELECTRONIC LOCKERS

What size gas tank did you get with ours?

With the craziness of supply chain issues I've already order some of my unfitting gear:
- Chassis Unlimited Octane Bumper
- Smittybilt X2O GEN3 12K Winch with Synthetic Rope
- Factor 55 FlatLink
- Baja Designs 3" Cube lights for bumper
- Method Standard 315 Matte Black 17x8.5, 8x170
- Nitto 35x12.50R17LT Tire, Ridge Grappler
- CARLI 2017+ FORD Super Duty Signature Series 2.5/3.5 Level System

Thanks for the walk-through on the "gray water" tanks. Very helpful.
 
UncleDougie said:
Love the setup Jkron. I 'm getting my Ford F250 delivered next month (March 10th)

2022 F250 SRW 4X4 SUPERCAB
XLT 148" WB
7.3L DEVCT NA PFI V8 ENGINE
10-SPEED AUTOMATIC
ELECTRONIC LOCKERS

What size gas tank did you get with ours?

With the craziness of supply chain issues I've already order some of my unfitting gear:
- Chassis Unlimited Octane Bumper
- Smittybilt X2O GEN3 12K Winch with Synthetic Rope
- Factor 55 FlatLink
- Baja Designs 3" Cube lights for bumper
- Method Standard 315 Matte Black 17x8.5, 8x170
- Nitto 35x12.50R17LT Tire, Ridge Grappler
- CARLI 2017+ FORD Super Duty Signature Series 2.5/3.5 Level System

Thanks for the walk-through on the "gray water" tanks. Very helpful.
My truck was equipped with the 34 gallon fuel tank. I wanted the largest one Ford offered, but the next size up tank was only available on the long bed model. I have trying to find a solid solution for more fuel, and my plan is to retrofit one of those aftermarket large capacity diesel tanks to work with the gas truck. I am just needing to calculate the EVAP system capacity, to see if the system can handle the additional vapors from a larger fuel tank..

Looks like a nice parts list you have outlined. What are you planning for the rear suspension on the truck to deal with the weight of the camper? I had a set of leaf springs made after I got the camper on. And if you want to run 35's you can clear those with no lift. I run a set of 35x11 with no issues on OEM suspension.
 
I believe the CARLI kit comes with rear leafs. But I was planning to address that once I get the flatbed and camper installed and loaded with fuel, gear and equipment we'll get axle weights and go from there.

As for fuel tank, I think I'm getting their 40-gallon tanks. It was more difficult than I thought it would be. In researching additional tank options "gravity feed" is out as its only good for non-combustible fuel (diesel) lame.... I was thinking of adding a tank to my flatbed with once of those pump systems that draws 5-gal per cycle into the main tank.

I'll post some photos as I go. Thanks for sharing your build thus far. Its been helpful.
 
UncleDougie said:
I believe the CARLI kit comes with rear leafs. But I was planning to address that once I get the flatbed and camper installed and loaded with fuel, gear and equipment we'll get axle weights and go from there.

As for fuel tank, I think I'm getting their 40-gallon tanks. It was more difficult than I thought it would be. In researching additional tank options "gravity feed" is out as its only good for non-combustible fuel (diesel) lame.... I was thinking of adding a tank to my flatbed with once of those pump systems that draws 5-gal per cycle into the main tank.

I'll post some photos as I go. Thanks for sharing your build thus far. Its been helpful.
Just a heads up on the Carli leaves, they have an XHD pack that they do not list on their site. The regular HD pack will be too light more than likely, and you will experience some sag in the rear.

For the fuel tank, I have seen the Titan 30 gallon tank that takes the spot of the spare tier under the van adapted for use with gasoline. Titan will not endorse it, but I have seen it. Then comes the questions of where do you put the spare, so you need a solution for that.
 
Jkron said:
Alright, so made some additions in the last few weeks.

First up was making a bracket for the maxtrax to be moved down lower on the rear rack, to free up space for the shower cube to be mounted higher to function better.

The maxtrax mount is made from aluminum, and mounts to the bottom of the factory rack, and then is bolted into the Norweld tray.

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Next up was a big one. Swapping out the propane furnace for a Planar diesel heater. After my last trip to Moab a few weekends ago, and the Dometic furnace failing again on me with no error codes, i decided to rip it out and replace it. Between it using a ton of gas and power, and being a complete pile of garbage, it was about time I ripped it out.

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I wanted the replacement heater to be OEM in apperance. This meant re-using the factory cover. I removed the plastic trim ring from the existing furnace, and made and adaptor plate and used a thru-hull exhaust fitting. this resulted in it looking factory.

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I mounted the ehater within the facotry cabinet. I heat wrapped the exhaust and muffler, and made a heat sheild for the side of th cabinet closest to the exhaust.

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I have added additional heat lagging to the muffler and pipe. The exhaust is attached to a bracket that is mounted to the floor, so it can not shift or move. I also used muffler cement to seal all the exhaust connections since they will be inside. I also installed a redundant CO detector as well.

Next up was getting the fuel supply figured out. Since the fuel pump needs to be within 1 meter of the tank, I ordered a tank to fit in the forward storage box. This will make it easy to fill from a standard fuel station. The tank is 5.5L. The heater will burn 5.76 liters at full output in 24hrs of constant running. So this should result in approx 3 days at 8 hours per day at max output. I will carry a small diesel rotopax can for additional capacity.

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The intake combustion air is pulled from the louvered panel behind the fridge. The same location is where the heater pulls in the air to run over the heat exchanger and supply into the camper.

I debated on pulling the air form inside the camper, but this will result in less condensation when pulling the air in from outside, but will use slightly more fuel since it needs to heat cold air now.

I made an interior panel from 3/4" AC ply that I had laying around, but I am going to use 1/2" birch and stain it to match the interior as close as possible.

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The factory thermostat will be removed, and some USB outlets installed in its place. The controller for the new heater is mounted up near the sink and cutlery drawer. I ran new power for the diesel heater, and capped off the existing power lines from the old furnace.

Since i was left with a gas line from the propane heater, I installed a quick disconnect for a BBQ or firepit in the future.

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I am just waiting for the fuel tank, which I should have today so i can mount it and test fire the heater and check for fuel leaks before I button everything up.

Overall I am excited to get rid of the crummy furnace that is in there. I wish I did not need to replace it, and FWC would install a higher quality unit, but that seems unlikely to change. But this should prove to be more reliable, with service and parts much more readily available. But time will tell.
what is the brand of your exhaust port / thru hull ??
 
Jkron said:
Just a heads up on the Carli leaves, they have an XHD pack that they do not list on their site. The regular HD pack will be too light more than likely, and you will experience some sag in the rear.

For the fuel tank, I have seen the Titan 30 gallon tank that takes the spot of the spare tier under the van adapted for use with gasoline. Titan will not endorse it, but I have seen it. Then comes the questions of where do you put the spare, so you need a solution for that.
Good to know. THANKS!! I have a status call with my up fitter next week and I will for sure get this resolved.
 
goinoregon said:
what is the brand of your exhaust port / thru hull ??
It’s sold by Planar on their website. They offer two sizes for the two different exhaust pipes, I believe all their air heaters use the smaller pipe. It’s a bit pricey at $125 bucks or so, but makes for a super clean side exit
 
Jkron said:
It’s sold by Planar on their website. They offer two sizes for the two different exhaust pipes, I believe all their air heaters use the smaller pipe. It’s a bit pricey at $125 bucks or so, but makes for a super clean side exit
thx jkron. looks like quality product. i could not follow how you plumbed the intake tube for your heater? does it also have a thru-hull?
 
goinoregon said:
thx jkron. looks like quality product. i could not follow how you plumbed the intake tube for your heater? does it also have a thru-hull?
The air intake for the combustion for the heater is routed through the side panel, and into the area behind the fridge. This is protected by the louvered panel from debris, and allows more than enough air flow. It is also where I pull the air to be heated over the heat exchanger as well.

I was planning to use a thru-hull as well, but in order to meet the minimum distances from exhaust to air intake to avoid having the heater inhale products from combustion, I could not find a spot on the old furnace cover that would work well.

I have attached a picture with a better view of the air intakes. Air for combustion is the smaller tube inside the larger tube. Its like a silencer I guess to help lower noise.

1.jpg
 
Jkron said:
The air intake for the combustion for the heater is routed through the side panel, and into the area behind the fridge. This is protected by the louvered panel from debris, and allows more than enough air flow. It is also where I pull the air to be heated over the heat exchanger as well.

I was planning to use a thru-hull as well, but in order to meet the minimum distances from exhaust to air intake to avoid having the heater inhale products from combustion, I could not find a spot on the old furnace cover that would work well.

I have attached a picture with a better view of the air intakes. Air for combustion is the smaller tube inside the larger tube. Its like a silencer I guess to help lower noise.

1.jpg
thx for your detailed explanation. i hope this my last question. looking at your pic of air intake, i wonder if i could just plumb the air intake to the rear turnbuckle area. its pretty big, and the door blocks it off from interior.
i am going to use the propane door, to vent exhaust. i decided to not use the propane tank storage, and will mount tank on jack brkts for the few times i winter camp.
 
goinoregon said:
thx for your detailed explanation. i hope this my last question. looking at your pic of air intake, i wonder if i could just plumb the air intake to the rear turnbuckle area. its pretty big, and the door blocks it off from interior.
i am going to use the propane door, to vent exhaust. i decided to not use the propane tank storage, and will mount tank on jack brkts for the few times i winter camp.

If you have a slide in, the turnbuckle area would work well.
 
Jkron said:
If you have a slide in, the turnbuckle area would work well.
yeah, i have an atc ocelot slide in shell.
thx for your generous time and info. much appreciated. unfortunately my camper upgrade knowledge seems to be way lower than yours, so wont be able to help u with anything !
good luck with your project.
 
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