Jack
Senior Member
Our propane detector looks like this. When I read "T-Crimps" I immediately write
RE-CRIMP them with pliers.
We had a somewhat similar problem with our Atwood heater due to an intermittent T-Crimp connection. A few "hand-pounds" of force on the pliers was enough. T-Crimps have a less than stellar reputation.
We added the battery cut-out ourselves. It's a "Battery Brain" (http://www.batterybrain.net/gold.html - but I don't see the "Type IV RV" version which is designed for deep cycle batteries, and is what you want). The unit is essentially a solid state single-pole single-throw switch that is wired inline with the positive terminal of the battery. If the voltage falls below 11.5V the switch opens. A reset button closes the switch.
I'll post a picture of the wiring when I can. Tracy, Spike and Shelly (Herself, the Taco and the FWC) are up in Portland and I'm here in LA . I'm back in Portland Friday and we will be taking a four day trip back to LA, probably thru eastern Oregon and California
RE-CRIMP them with pliers.
We had a somewhat similar problem with our Atwood heater due to an intermittent T-Crimp connection. A few "hand-pounds" of force on the pliers was enough. T-Crimps have a less than stellar reputation.
We added the battery cut-out ourselves. It's a "Battery Brain" (http://www.batterybrain.net/gold.html - but I don't see the "Type IV RV" version which is designed for deep cycle batteries, and is what you want). The unit is essentially a solid state single-pole single-throw switch that is wired inline with the positive terminal of the battery. If the voltage falls below 11.5V the switch opens. A reset button closes the switch.
I'll post a picture of the wiring when I can. Tracy, Spike and Shelly (Herself, the Taco and the FWC) are up in Portland and I'm here in LA . I'm back in Portland Friday and we will be taking a four day trip back to LA, probably thru eastern Oregon and California