proper sealant caulk for exterior screw replacement

[RHarries]

I have a 2009 HAWK, and want/need to replace some of the exterior sheet metal screws. The existing sealant caulk is white in color and remains "gummy" after 10+ years. what is this stuff? i would like to replace with similar and durable material.

 

[bajaphile]

On horizontal surfaces, you should use self leveling sealant either from Dicor or LaSalle Bristol . Not sure what FWC actually uses.

I'd like to hear best option for vertical surfaces.

I just replaced my non powered vent with a fantastic fan and used butyl tape and the LaSalle Bristol self leveling sealant. Easy to work with, 3 days after doing it I was surprised to see the stuff was skinned over but still soft to the touch. Might take up to 30 days to fully cure apparently.

 

[longhorn1]

I have a 2009 HAWK, and want/need to replace some of the exterior sheet metal screws. The existing sealant caulk is white in color and remains "gummy" after 10+ years. what is this stuff? i would like to replace with similar and durable material.

You want to use a polyurethane sealant. FWC has a sealant they use and I would check with them. I believe it is Silaprene, but not sure. You can't go wrong with polyurethane.

I spent 40 years involved with sealants in the construction industry. Whatever you do, DO NOT use Silicone sealant. Over the years I have posted on sealant use. Once you use Silicone, you can never clean the surface free of contaminates. The proper sealants will never bond to the surface.

Make sure you thoroughly clean the surface before caulking. Grab a Solo cups, add a little dish soap and water. Caulk, dip your finger in the cup and tool the sealant around the fastener, repeat the process.

Good luck. jd

 

[veryactivelife]

Good advice from longhorn1. I would add, be sure to use zinc coated screws as other metals will eat away at the aluminum through galvanic reaction. The FWC screws are zinc coated.

Here is an article on caulking tests from Practical Sailor magazine. I believe anyone can access it. https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/marine-sealant-adhesion-tests

Dean

 

[Beach]

As Longhorn said, use a polyurethane sealant for screws and small bedding applications. I use 3M 4000, 4200, or 5200 depending on the application. It is very important to properly clean and prep your surfaces, remove any rust from screws or replace with new. The sealant also acts like thread locker, I've had no screws back out since redoing the roof and roof side flange on my Hawk 5 years ago.

 

[longhorn1]

Good comments from all. Dicor is the sealant used by FWC for re-setting a fan base. You can use Polyurethane on both vertical and horizontal surfaces without concern for sag.

 

[craig333]

The gummy stuff is probably some form of butyl tape, not a liquid sealant.

 

[RHarries]

Thanks all for your guidance. I wish that I had posted this sooner, as I added silicon sealant this winter to plug a roof vent leak. I am hoping that with enough cleansing I will be able to remove this application and properly seal the roof vent. FWIW, Rocky Mountain FWC recommended: "[SIZE=11pt]Just use a white, polyurethane sealant. That caulk is only there for aesthetics though. The real sealant is the butyl tape under the flange of the vent housing."[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]Ride on and on and on and on and....[/SIZE]

 

[craig333]

Glad we could help. I don't mind using silicone inside a screw hole. Outside yeah, use a polyurethane.

 

[REDROCK]

Hello to all.
I have a 2009 Hawk and we are dealing with a roof leak. I am the 3rd owner and we've had the Hawk since 2016. My husband re-calked the area around the fan last year but in April during a heavy rainstorm I noticed a steady drip inside-- on one corner of the fan. The happened with the roof elevated. After driving on the interstate recently in a rainstorm I found the leaking was occurring in the same location. So it would seem the leak is coming from somewhere else.

Currently it is raining steadily (but not heavy) and no leaks are coming through. However I imagine it is getting into the roof somewhere. We live in UT and MT so mold is not an issue.

We are going to address the problem. After a review on this forum , question is:
What is the consensus, replacing screws or adding a sealant to the roof. I read that one person has done both... .

I have contacted the Four Wheel companies in our area and both options have been suggested without any strong opinion as to which is the best way to proceed.

Thanks!

 

[Jack]

On our previous Eagle, we dealt with leaks. First, where the water comes in may be nowhere near where you see it inside.

The problems ended when every two years I recaulked all of the roof screws. Not sure I needed to do it that often but I was gun shy by then. I used 3M 5200, a marine grade caulk which is also adhesive. I would use Siliprene now. It has worked well for the past 5 years on out Fleet to seal the forward fan that I added.

If a screw did not tighten firmly, I replaced it with a slightly larger screw. Be especially alert for screws that are offset - at an angle. Replace then with a new screw and make sure it seats properly.

 

[Vic Harder]

Super easy to remove the screws, clean off the old sealant, and insert the screws again with a healthy blob of sealant in the screw hole, and around the screw head. Dicor Lap seal works well, as does 3m 4200.

 

[ClimberRob]

I used 3M 4200 and haven't had an issue with them since.

 

[JaSAn]

OK you caulk experts -- A previous owner used silicon caulk around the outside edge of the Grandby roof. It is old and starting to peel, detach, and leak. What can I use to patch or do I have to clean everything off and hope something else sticks? Right now I have a duct tape patch over the leaky places, but that is not a permanent solution.

 

[REDROCK]

Thanks for the help!

 

[Vic Harder]

OK you caulk experts -- A previous owner used silicon caulk around the outside edge of the Grandby roof. It is old and starting to peel, detach, and leak. What can I use to patch or do I have to clean everything off and hope something else sticks? Right now I have a duct tape patch over the leaky places, but that is not a permanent solution.

not an expert, but... Last year I redid most of the screws on the roof (except for the ones under my solar panel). Some of those I had to redo last month when I moved my solar panel and added supports for a canoe rack. The screws from last year (sealed with 3m 4200) were very solidly sealed at this time.

I cleaned the old sealant off with Brake Cleaner, two applications, light scrubbing with a cloth in between applications.