Question: Bottom section strength

crumbs

Advanced Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Messages
90
Location
New York State
Does the integrity of the bottom section of these campers depend on the top being on it when traveling? Written another way, does the top locked down on the four walls add to the bottoms strength?

I have little doubt that the top needs to be down and locked for its own security.
 
FWC models have a welded aluminum frame which supports the bottom section very well, independent from the top. I think ATC does as well, but perhaps an owner will chip in. I have been known to move from one campsite to another with the top up going very slowly.

Note, however, the floor of the camper is not supported well enough to go inside while the camper is on corner jacks, if you did't already know this. That's why many of us who take ours off for the winter have built a platform dolly to support the camper from the bottom while off the truck.
 
crumbs said:
Does the integrity of the bottom section of these campers depend on the top being on it when traveling? Written another way, does the top locked down on the four walls add to the bottoms strength?

I have little doubt that the top needs to be down and locked for its own security.
There are lots of stories of people doing highway speeds with the top up, but no horror stories that I am aware of. That said, not a good practice. The aluminum frame is pretty strong.
 
Bosque Bill: No I had not realized that you couldn't use them while they were on the jacks without added support.

Wandering Sagebrush: I would think the canvas at the very least would begin to fail if that is done too often.


This has my wheels turning.

Bosque Bill said:
FWC models have a welded aluminum frame which supports the bottom section very well, independent from the top. I think ATC does as well, but perhaps an owner will chip in. I have been known to move from one campsite to another with the top up going very slowly.

Note, however, the floor of the camper is not supported well enough to go inside while the camper is on corner jacks, if you did't already know this. That's why many of us who take ours off for the winter have built a platform dolly to support the camper from the bottom while off the truck.

Wandering Sagebrush said:
There are lots of stories of people doing highway speeds with the top up, but no horror stories that I am aware of. That said, not a good practice. The aluminum frame is pretty strong.
 
Thanks for the link. I'm sure I'll repeat some errors along the way, along with a few new ones of my own.

I want to point out that the reason for questioning the strength is not as obvious as it would seem. I have some other ideas for the camper shell and I wanted to get a general impression from the crew here of its need to have a roof clamp down to keep the sides from undoing themselves while in motion..


I hope to visit the builders before the the end of March.

craig333 said:
 
crumbs said:
Bosque Bill: No I had not realized that you couldn't use them while they were on the jacks without added support.

Wandering Sagebrush: I would think the canvas at the very least would begin to fail if that is done too often.


This has my wheels turning.
It’s usually done accidentally, either forgetting to lower the top, or forgetting to latch it and having it pop up underway.
 
Here is an interesting take on driving with the camper top in the up position. Last October we were with a group of friends (including Tuff Guy and wife from this forum) gassing up in Torrey, Utah near Capital Reef NP when a truck with a FWC drove by with his top in the up position. Several of us ran out to toward the road waving and shouting to get his attention, but to no avail. A while later at the CR visitors center the same fellow came driving in with his top still popped. Thinking that we were being good Samaritans, we flagged him down and pointed to his upright camper top. He said, "Oh, I always travel with the top up as long as I am not exceeding 55 mph. The factory told me that that was fine, and I've been doing it for years!" We saw him twice more in the next few days, always with his top in the up position. I guess that speaks to the structural soundness of these campers, but it is certainly not something that I plan to practice.
 
Bosque Bill said:
Note, however, the floor of the camper is not supported well enough to go inside while the camper is on corner jacks, if you did't already know this. That's why many of us who take ours off for the winter have built a platform dolly to support the camper from the bottom while off the truck.
When I went to pick up my new Hawk from my FWC dealer a few years ago, it was supported on corner jacks with nothing under the floor. The dealer invited me to go inside the camper while they installed eyebolts in my truck bed. I was a bit surprised, having read here that wasn't a good idea, so I said, "I thought the floor won't support my weight." He said, "Oh, it'll support you, no problem." So I carefully went inside, and sure enough, I didn't feel anything give or move. Still, that's the only time I've ever been in it without the floor supported - when it's off the truck, I keep it on a dolly. Just in case I ever feel like doing jumping jacks in the camper. 8^)
 
Hi Crumbs

And welcome to WTW.

I can help but get the impression you are not gonna get the answer you want unless you ask the question you have.

The sidewall frame construction does not depend on the roof being clamped down but overall, these lightweight aluminum campers are designed to a very specific purpose.

One description is that they are much like an egg shell......very strong yet very fragile.

The factory used to have a frame "skeleton" they took to trade shows to display...if you could see that it might help you get the info your looking for.

Enjoy the search.

David Graves
 
crumbs said:
I want to point out that the reason for questioning the strength is not as obvious as it would seem. I have some other ideas for the camper shell and I wanted to get a general impression from the crew here of its need to have a roof clamp down to keep the sides from undoing themselves while in motion..

I hope to visit the builders before the the end of March.
One of the frustrations you'll see expressed here from many FWC owners it the lack of documentation on where exactly those aluminum channels are located under the skin. FWC refuses to say where exactly they are placed, claiming there are no specific fabrication drawings and they are simply welded together by eye. (As a former engineer I could not fathom how/why they'd do it that way, but there it is.)

Makes it extremely difficult if you want to mount anything to the outside later, such as gas can, traction ramps, etc. I "solved" the problem by mounting my MaxTrax using homebuilt brackets attached to the aluminum skin using 3M commercial grade double-sided tape (not the consumer stuff you find at Home Depot.) I did the same when I mounted a solar panel to the roof. Haven't had any problems with either installation.

So, if you want to mount something later, I'd suggest getting them to install a general purpose bracket at the time of assembly (assuming they'll agree to that.)
 
Missing Link said:
Here is an interesting take on driving with the camper top in the up position. Last October we were with a group of friends (including Tuff Guy and wife from this forum) gassing up in Torrey, Utah near Capital Reef NP when a truck with a FWC drove by with his top in the up position. Several of us ran out to toward the road waving and shouting to get his attention, but to no avail. A while later at the CR visitors center the same fellow came driving in with his top still popped. Thinking that we were being good Samaritans, we flagged him down and pointed to his upright camper top. He said, "Oh, I always travel with the top up as long as I am not exceeding 55 mph. The factory told me that that was fine, and I've been doing it for years!" We saw him twice more in the next few days, always with his top in the up position. I guess that speaks to the structural soundness of these campers, but it is certainly not something that I plan to practice.
Great story, tho I'm not sure how to process it ... either,

"I can. Therefore, I will. "

or

"There's nowt so queer as folk."
 
Hello DavidGraves: First off, thank you, but I do believe I'm satisfied with the strength question, and then some. I am still open to new anecdotes. They have been interesting so far.

Thanks to all. Crumbs

P.S. As to my unorthodox idea for my personalized camper shell, I doubt it's worth the space here. I will say that I'm probably going to need to learn how to weld aluminum as I don't imagine any of the manufacturers being open to my idea, or if they would, the lock on my wallet being loose enough. To be practical, I'll likely end up with a standard shell with maybe a small modification to the door size.


DavidGraves said:
Hi Crumbs

And welcome to WTW.

I can help but get the impression you are not gonna get the answer you want unless you ask the question you have.

The sidewall frame construction does not depend on the roof being clamped down but overall, these lightweight aluminum campers are designed to a very specific purpose.

One description is that they are much like an egg shell......very strong yet very fragile.

The factory used to have a frame "skeleton" they took to trade shows to display...if you could see that it might help you get the info your looking for.

Enjoy the search.

David Graves
 
Crumb

A barn door ! I knew it ! :) you want a barn door......!

Maybe not but anyway...

ATC have a better record of building customs than FWC which seem to have a long line of satisfied customers waiting to have their new campers completed.

There are a great many utility canopy bodies....with barn doors...and tall enough that are being converted for very nice campers....
particularly in Canada.....

Enjoy the search.

David Graves
 
My special request would be to have the camper sides tall enough to create a 57" interior height when closed. I assume the furnace can run in that configuration without a problem?

Yes Barn doors could be handy, but I think better than that would be flip-up door combo similar to the attached picture; but of course that would take to much from the strength I desire. Id easily settle for simply a wider than standard door.

I have a 1,960 pound payload with a 6 cyl 4.3liter gas eng. on a 1/2 chassis. It would be on full time.

wood_4.137155444_std.jpg


wood_5.137155510_std.jpg


DavidGraves said:
Crumb

A barn door ! I knew it ! :) you want a barn door......!

Maybe not but anyway...

ATC have a better record of building customs than FWC which seem to have a long line of satisfied customers waiting to have their new campers completed.

There are a great many utility canopy bodies....with barn doors...and tall enough that are being converted for very nice campers....
particularly in Canada.....

Enjoy the search.

David Graves
 
If you are thinking new pop up slide in like a FWC but with altered dimensions then I suggest you talk to ATC.

As for strength with out the roof I think the integrity of the wall enclosure could be improved with a more robust door header and sill. Like increased cabin height and bigger door ATC may be able to address this, or not.
 

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom