Questions regarding "So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper?"

[mobilelists]

A component source I like to use for "true" Anderson connectors is Powerwerks. For the 120 connectors they have a list of cable gauge options:

Anderson Power Products SB120 SB Series 120 Amp Connector Kit

 

[Gumbus]

Thanks Tacoma, that is the sort of thing that would mount the Anderson SB120 cleanly.

Where do the rest of you adventurers insert the CB on the house battery side of the DC2DC power line. Meaning do you sequence DC/DC charger - CB - Battery or CB - DC/DC charger - battery?

 

[Vic Harder]

There are mounts for an Anderson SB120, such as the one below:

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Vision-Anderson-Mounting-Connector/dp/B09FKC2KBL/ref=asc_df_B09FKC2KBL/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598351409759&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9356945545529454844&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028320&hvtargid=pla-1660155551245&psc=1

The description calls it a "Trailer Vision 120A Battery Quick Connector Protective Cover Mount Fits SB 120 Gauge 6-2 AWG 120 Amp Anderson Plug Assembly"

I like this, but it still does not address getting the wires through the sheet metal of the truck box.

I used a pair of these for the bulkhead connection - Amazon.com: Moroso 74144 Red Thru Panel Connector : Automotive

 

[Vic Harder]

Thank you Vic for this very informative thread. With respect to running 4awg from the truck batt to the Victron Orion Tr Smart 30A and 100AH LiFe battery:

2. So many differing opinions where to put the CB near the camper battery (LiFe). Do you recommend the CB (80A) between the Batt and the DC/DC charger?

My DCDC charger is quite close, about 3' of 6g wire. I do not protect that wire with a fuse or circuit breaker. My wires are quite visible to me, and there are no metal bits where it could easily wear through and short. YMMV.

 

[craig333]

I like this, but it still does not address getting the wires through the sheet metal of the truck box.

I used a pair of these for the bulkhead connection - Amazon.com: Moroso 74144 Red Thru Panel Connector : Automotive

I thought a simple grommet was adequate. Now I need to upgrade. Someday

 

[Vic Harder]

I thought a simple grommet was adequate. Now I need to upgrade. Someday

LOL, I used a simple grommet for years.

 

[ntsqd]

I met a guy back in '96 (!) at the NESEA Tour del Sol who was using Lithium based batteries in his company's EV's then. He had gotten into the gas cloud created when one of those battery packs over-heated and he spent months in the hospital. I met him nearly a year after he got out of the hospital and he looked and walked like a Polio survivor.

If a Lithium battery over-heats you do not want to breathe those gasses. Lithium is a heavy metal, something that the human body has no good method of getting out of it's system. Look at the whole lead paint debacle, and the origin behind the "Mad Hatter" stories from Mercury ingestion.

Vent the box.

 

[Wallowa]

I met a guy back in '96 (!) at the NESEA Tour del Sol who was using Lithium based batteries in his company's EV's then. He had gotten into the gas cloud created when one of those battery packs over-heated and he spent months in the hospital. I met him nearly a year after he got out of the hospital and he looked and walked like a Polio survivor.

If a Lithium battery over-heats you do not want to breathe those gasses. Lithium is a heavy metal, something that the human body has no good method of getting out of it's system. Look at the whole lead paint debacle, and the origin behind the "Mad Hatter" stories from Mercury ingestion.

Vent the box.

Not all Li battery chemistry is the same...from what I read the LiFePO4 batteries do not suffer from ignition or gas loss...of course I could be wrong...

 

[ntsqd]

It's not worth the risk. He was seriously screwed up and would be for the rest of his life.

Let's look at it differently; what do you gain from not sealing and venting the battery box? They still need to be somewhere accessible. That puts them at or near an outer wall somewhere. Even if you're not accessing them from the outside the higher priority needs of the floor plan will still have them around the edges somewhere.

 

[Wallowa]

It's not worth the risk. He was seriously screwed up and would be for the rest of his life.

Let's look at it differently; what do you gain from not sealing and venting the battery box? They still need to be somewhere accessible. That puts them at or near an outer wall somewhere. Even if you're not accessing them from the outside the higher priority needs of the floor plan will still have them around the edges somewhere.

I concur...it always comes down to % of assumption of risk by the individual ..and as stated at least my '16 Hawk is vented by FWC; which in the world of lead/acid batteries is sufficient but un-needed for my BB LiFePO4 battery....I take exception to any government entity telling me I must seal and vent the battery box and I have yet to see the Oregon statute that declares that I must seal and vent a Li battery box...in my world it is about the individual deciding...

In the end we all make our own choices; or a least we should.

 

[ntsqd]

Oh yeah, I'd do it for me and not because the gumberment told me that I had to!

 

[Jon R]

The recent Oregon law change (Jan 2020) requires new RVs titled in Oregon to meet NFPA 1192 or a similar ANSI standard, which contains some sort of battery compartment venting requirement. I couldn’t find a free view of NFPA 1192. Compliance has to be shown by manufacturer statement at the time the new RV is titled. It appears that once you buy it you can alter it without violating the law. As always, altering a regulated aspect of a vehicle carries some risk of denial of an insurance claim.

 

[Wallowa]

The recent Oregon law change (Jan 2020) requires new RVs titled in Oregon to meet NFPA 1192 or a similar ANSI standard, which contains some sort of battery compartment venting requirement. I couldn’t find a free view of NFPA 1192. Compliance has to be shown by manufacturer statement at the time the new RV is titled. It appears that once you buy it you can alter it without violating the law. As always, altering a regulated aspect of a vehicle carries some risk of denial of an insurance claim.

Thanks Jon..I assume NFPA 1192 is a federal statute but what is the Oregon statute changed Jan 2020?

Found this. Not Federal but RV Industry generated: "As announced this past summer, the RV Industry Association Board of Directors approved the 2021 edition of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 1192 RV Standard with an effective date of January 1, 2021 and a mandatory enforcement date of July 1, 2021." https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=1192

And yes I would expect Oregon to glom onto any opportunity exercise regulatory controls in any form.

Would love to read the Oregon statute codifying and stipulating enforcement of RV industry standards.

Phil

 

[Jon R]

NFPA is an industry group that issues standards they hope to be picked up by government regulatory agencies. One thing I find frustrating is that these “private codes” are incorporated by reference in the laws and regulations the public is required to meet, but the groups do their best to charge fees to obtain the codes. A lawyer several years ago filed suits in 50 states to require the codes to be made available for free and he won, but now what the groups do is manipulate the search engines so the free web sites are pushed so far down you can’t find them. That lawyer runs a web site with all 50 states’ electrical, mechanical, and building codes and some other standards. I’m having trouble finding it due to the search engine shenanigans, but I have the address in an email I should be able to track down. If I find it I’ll post it.

 

[Jon R]

Here’s the article I found:
https://www.rvnews.com/new-oregon-rv-laws-take-effect-jan-1/

I do not know the Oregon code system like I do the WA system, but I’ll poke around and see if I can find the new regulation. It’s just going to point at those industry standards, though, and won’t directly say “vent your battery compartment, even if it’s LiFePO.”

 

[Wallowa]

Yup...lots of behind the scenes string pulling...by pseudo or appointed or elected powers that be..and no end in sight.

 

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

That begs the question…I use a Renogy LifePo4 encased in an ArkPak battery box. It lives in the bed of my truck, under a topper next to my cot when I’m camping. Am I playing with matches?

 

[Wallowa]

That begs the question…I use a Renogy LifePo4 encased in an ArkPak battery box. It lives in the bed of my truck, under a topper next to my cot when I’m camping. Am I playing with matches?

What exactly are your concerns? Ignition/fire? Fumes? So far that I can discern BB LiFeP04 batteries do not off gas nor ignite...if in doubt check with Renogy...hey, life is a crap shoot!

 

[ntsqd]

Ever really looked under the bed? The amount of wasted space under there is amazing. If you're concerned about the battery I'd look at moving it to under the bed.

 

[FreezingMan]

Only in Oregon?

Wow...where is the statute specifying that the battery box must be sealed? Must be a new mandate since our 2016 Hawk [bought new here in Oregon] did not have a sealed battery box; screwed on lid with gasket was definitely not gas tight. Where was silicon sealant you removed?

Don't doubt it happening here in the Peoples Republic of Oregon and assume then that California would have had such directive first.

In the for what it’s worth column. In 2014 I purchased Fleet with FD with two AGM batteries. There is not a vent in the battery compartment. We lived in Oregon when we purchased it new.