Ranger Notch on FWC Eagle

BeachRanger

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2015
Messages
12
Hi all,

First off, I've been a lurker here for a few months, and finally pulled the trigger on a 2006 FWC Eagle for my 2002 Ford Ranger. I love it!

Only problem is the back end sits on the false fuel filler in the bed. I know out of the factory these would come with a "ranger notch", and I'd like to cut my own but I'm worried about cutting into the furnace or something else behind that wall.

Does anyone have this or a similar camper with the notch cut in? And if so, could you take a picture and post some dimensions?

I appreciate all the help, thanks all!
 
Welcome to WTW!

First off you probably joined up because there is a lot of information on this forum. The best way to find stuff is to use google and add wanderthewest.com

example - ranger notch wanderthewest.com - found this result -

FWC Eagle and Ford Ranger

Best of luck
 
Thanks ski. I did see that thread, but couldn't find on there the dimensions of the cut that needs to be made

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BeachRanger said:
Thanks ski. I did see that thread, but couldn't find on there the dimensions of the cut that needs to be made

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
Welcome to the site.
You do have the option of taking a hammer and pounding that filler area so the camper fits.
I have a ATC Bobcat that I had originally on an 06 Ranger it has the "notch" but since the camper in on the truck full time I can't send a picture,but there are some shots of the notch in posts.
Maybe search under the All Terrain threads.
Another member had the same questions about a month ago.So it should be easy to find.
Frank

PS I did a quick search and had no luck finding it.
 
I'll see what I can find, thanks Frank.

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BeachRanger, this is how our All Terrain Camper was built for the notch. If your furnace is in that area, I'd unhook it and pull it out prior to cutting to be on the safe side. I pulled the furnace out prior to cutting the ranger notch on our first camper. Simplest way and what I'd seriously consider doing is Alley-Kat's mod of the bed with a 3 lb. sledge.
Bobcat-Ranger-002-copy.jpg


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Bobcat-Ranger-007-copy.jpg
 
The one caveat on the sledge approach is the following: It there is nothing behind the wedge, then the likeliest reason for its existence is to provide strength, stiffness and support to the pickup bed in lieu of increased steel thickness to reduce overall weight of the pickup.

Think of it as a corner brace you might add diagonally between two boards that meet at 90 degrees; like the metal diagonal brace someone here used to strengthen their camper where the turnbuckle attaches to the camper.

Removal of the wedge might have no immediate impact but may have some unintended result after months or years due to increased flexing of the pickup bed.

Paul
 
Ski, thank you so much, that's a huge help!

My bed has line x, and I'm not a fan of pounding it out. My buddy is a carpenter, so this should be a breeze with his help.

Again, thanks a ton for this!

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PaulT said:
The one caveat on the sledge approach is the following: It there is nothing behind the wedge, then the likeliest reason for its existence is to provide strength, stiffness and support to the pickup bed in lieu of increased steel thickness to reduce overall weight of the pickup.

Think of it as a corner brace you might add diagonally between two boards that meet at 90 degrees; like the metal diagonal brace someone here used to strengthen their camper where the turnbuckle attaches to the camper.

Removal of the wedge might have no immediate impact but may have some unintended result after months or years due to increased flexing of the pickup bed.

Paul
Being a former Manufacturing Engineer having worked on a consulting basis for all of the major U.S. truck makers (Ford, GM & Dodge), I got to know a lot of mechanical design engineers and I got to ask a lot of questions. I continue to remain in contact with many of them.

On the night in Fall, 2010, between visiting ATC on a Friday and the next day when I placed my order, I emailed a friend at Ford.

The answer to what that feature was for...

"That the rear gas tank filler clearance stamped into the bed was for a rear (dual) gas tank. However, the marketing guys reversed an earlier decision and now didn't want to have an option of removing the spare tire, and instead supplying a rear gas tank in that place. BTW, the gas tank was the one being used in the Bronco II. Unfortunately, that marketing reversal decision was made after we had already approved the design and the stampings were created. We were not going to go back and make a new stamping just to remove that feature. There is no structural component to the rear gas tank filler clearance, if there was we would have done the same on the passenger side of the truck bed. So, you are free to pound it out, have fun hammering and camping."

After receiving that reply, I decided to order my Bobcat without the ranger notch in the camper (I did want that space on the inside to be flat) and the day I placed my order Marty drilled the eye bolt locations in my Ranger truck bed and Marty and I pounded out the rear gas tank filler clearance until we were happy.
 
And that, Alley, is why superior knowledge (and, perhaps, good connections) is better than supposition as to why the shape was as it was. I suspected that additional work would not be put in the design without justification and you discovered that additional work would not be expended to remove a no longer required design feature that caused no harm and would impact schedule.. Both ideas based on not incurring any more NRE costs. Glad you knew the real facts.

Paul
 
A few more pics for you.

Just in case this might help when you go to make the cuts.

Happy Camping !

:)




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Ok guys, new question on this. And yes, I tried the search with no luck.

Any hints in removing the furnace? I have the back plate and inside vents off, but can't figure how the sucker comes out

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From my memory with our old Ranger II, you need to disconnect the copper propane line. Is it screwed to the floor pack? I don't remember. I'd suggest you pull off the paneling on the inside with the air vents to get a good view. That should just have a few screws holding it to the cabinetry and a block behind it on the bottom.
 
After more digging, I've decided to go with what y'all said and just pound out the bed. Seems easier and I can get out some stress.

Next time, I'll listen to everyone's wisdom ;)


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BeachRanger said:
.................................... I've decided to go with what y'all said and just pound out the bed. Seems easier and I can get out some stress.
Nothing like a big hammer to help with stress, just don't go bffi.
 
BeachRanger said:
After more digging, I've decided to go with what y'all said and just pound out the bed. Seems easier and I can get out some stress.
Next time, I'll listen to everyone's wisdom ;)
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Any chance a local body shop could do that with less trauma?
 
Probably... but it's past the point of no return now. I'm gonna clean it up and cover it with Bedliner when I'm done

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BeachRanger said:
Probably... but it's past the point of no return now. I'm gonna clean it up and cover it with Bedliner when I'm done

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You might spray the filler bulge area with a can of spray undercoat.
Hammering down the filler bulge was probably the easiest way to solve the issue.
Glad it all worked out.
Frank
 
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