Rear flood light install questions

esimmers

esimmers

Senior Member
Joined
May 15, 2010
Messages
170
My 2009 Hawk came with the rear porch light but not the two flood lights that some people have. The factory told me where to drill a 1/2 hole in the aluminum siding to find the hole in the frame thru which I could fish out the wires that the factory installs even if you don't order the porch light.

I fished a green wire out of each hole. No ground wire; guess I'll ground to the frame.

Has anyone done this before? There's no power yet to the green wire and no switch inside the camper to turn on the floods. Guess I'll have to poke around to see if I can find the other end of the green wire inside the camper.

Any recommendations for flood lights?
 
I did this install on my 2013 Hawk.
I only found the green wire as well.
I only spent 2 hours of looking before I figured out there was nothing else to find!

I wasn't happy with the idea of grounding it to the frame. So on one side I spliced into the negative from the porch light. On the other side I spliced into another negative by the fridge and then ran it to the light.

It was prewired near the switch under my fridge. I then bought another switch panel and added it in. Works great. So now I have 1- LED down lights inside camper, 2- fridge fans, 3- exterior LEDs.

I used same LED lights FWC uses. I really like them as they are super bright. I've used them a lot and it was a very helpful upgrade for me.
 
It's a risk, but if the green wire isn't tightly secured somewhere in the wall you may be able to use it to pull in two replacement wires, a power and a ground.
 
I installed two lights on the rear of the camper as well. Grounding to frame seemed to work ok, I have not had any issues since the install. I ran my ground from the lamps to one mounting screw of the lamps into the frame. A second wire is not needed for a ground.
 
im doing this during the week myself. ordered 1 rear rv light from rigid. installing on drivers rear for unloading trailer at night. fuse, switch already installed. my inside panel has screws (2016 hawk shell) but the roof hindge panel blocks half of that panel. not sure if i want to remove hidge panel. so might make an access panel to the green wire. i heard of a pass though hole for flood light wire, but not sure where to drill. i have an idea, inches below and right of the roof latch it seems.
 
Related to this topic, is there any reason the factory floods on my 2011 Hawk couldn't be removed and LED lights installed in their place? Also considering just changing the bulbs to LED as a cheap alternative.
 
LED's are great. Just make sure you get the brightest you can find, as most tend to be not as bright as the original filament based power hogs.

Tree, when I replaced my interior siding, I took out one third of the screws holding the lifting panels at a time. The siding can be slid out from under and back in again without having to take off the panels themselves.
 
LED's are great. Just make sure you get the brightest you can find, as most tend to be not as bright as the original filament based power hogs.

Tree, when I replaced my interior siding, I took out one third of the screws holding the lifting panels at a time. The siding can be slid out from under and back in again without having to take off the panels themselves.
Click to expand...
ok,i was thinking that. I will try that tonight. weather permitted. thanx
 
done, pulling wall from under lift panel was no fun. green wire went into a panel. but was a dead end. way different than older models. i took pics. installed a rigid flood rv light where fwc puts the their floods. very nice install area on the inside with a good ground. hooked up to my basspro shops power panel and the fwc fuse block into the #1 flood position with 15a fuse. works perfect. lights up my trailer for loading and unloading at night.
 
Anyone have a close up picture of where the wires are located or how they installed theirs? I have a 2017 Fleet, should have just paid for that additional accessory. I have two decent LED lights and have them mounted just below the roof latches. I just need to decide how I want to feed in the power. Thanks for anything that can be shared.
 
Longbeard, as noted above, you will have to remove the interior siding material to get at the wires

pnce thats done you will see the wires in my case, the ground was just a short wire run to the frame, so that was obvious the other colored wire will be for the lamp positive
 
Thanks Vic. It sounded like from the other posts there were "coordinates/dimensions" for finding them without pulling a panel. I was confused. I will check it out. So if I read your earlier post correctly you could remove some of the lift mechanism / hinge and move a panel without having to take all those screws out and disassembling? I will check mine out tonight. Thanks for all the help.
 
Looks like the only panel I could move, without a major "tearout" would be the passenger side. Drivers side is pretty much covered up and glued to cabinetry and furnace. I am trying to contact FWC for some guidance as to wire locations I could access from the outside.
 
I only did the one floodlight on the passenger side, I think you'll find that it is all you need. It was no problem at all for me. Just tear into it, you'll get it done. Ron
 
I no longer have my camper. and I don't even have a good reason why I sold it. maybe needed a new truck, or more space. anyways, i did mine on the drivers side, only needed the one flood light. rigid rv light. worked perfect. I did drivers side because I knew the wire was already there, and the battery and switch is on that side. easy install. even easier than the ac power port I installed. that was rough due to trying to not hit the frame while drilling a 2 inch hole all the way through the rear wall. LOL
 
Passenger side was an easy one. I was able to pull enough panel out to verify before drilling. Now to tackle the drivers side. Where I thought to drill there is a structural piece so looking at my options.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

B
Are 80's FWC roofs prewired?
ckent323
C
B
FWC running lights issue
Vic Harder
Vic Harder
H
1996 hawk build thread
Vic Harder
Vic Harder
F
**SOLD** 2017 ATC Bobcat, shell model with light build. Original owner. SoCal.
farmtablemouthbutt
F
K7MDL
Installed Renogy One Core monitor and Battery Shunt 300
K7MDL
K7MDL

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom