Reico-tritan jacks - mounting and usage

[tcorfey]

I just bought a set of 4 used Reicon-Titan (2k model) for my 8' NCO.

I am replacing the two cable jacks I currently have.

My NCO is on a 1996 1ton Dodge Dually. My measurements indicated I needed ten inches of set back to avoid running over the tripod legs. I learned that these jacks lean in toward the cab quite a bit. So I think I can get by with an 8" setback and then mount the brackets on the outer 4 holes. Do I need to go further in with the brackets?

I know the box extensions from RT are only 6" but I was able to buy some 8"x8"x1/4" steel square stock which I will drill 4 holes in to become the extension for the forward jacks. (These were only $30.00 for the pair) I had them cut to 6" height.

Any suggestions on mounting the brackets to the camper? I have seen that people recommend backing plates. I assume plywood backing is okay?

Anybody else have the Dodge Dually and know what set back they used or have any other suggestions?

 

[Rusty]

Congratulations....good choice

Rieco makes extended brackets just for dually trucks,,,not having a dually I haven't got the experience on this one...but it would seem the forward jacks are all that would be needed...

the jacks themselves should not lean in at all...perpendicular.....straight up and down....the tripod bases will be with two legs arranged on the forward jacks so the outside wheels barely clip them when loading...

If you got the loops with the jacks you can store them on the camper while running and use the jacks for stability when camping...it makes a difference when climbing the stairs or entering the camper.....stops the wobbles

as far as the backing plates go...remember you're lifting about a ton and the weight distribution is on an old piece of 1/2" plywood. you dont want anything thick because your removable bench seat fits on top of the plywood....carriage bolts are well suited for this spot

thin fender washers work when drilled out to the diameter for the bolts....but if you connect all 4 bolts and back it with a piece of thick galvanized sheet metal or stainless you'll have a better distribution.

don't forget to use a serious amount of caulking adhesive between the bracket and the camper...water tends to wick in along the top of the bracket and soak the seating plywood you're bolting to....get it in the bolt holes as well

Again, good choice....

 

[Rusty]

Update....8-26-2017

So...when I first installed my jacks (Atwoods)...exact replicas of Reico Titans....I didn't apply the liberal adhesive caulking sealant I recommended in the last post...I installed them 25 years ago....young restless and hurried.....not without issues. Now I get to report on the reason for installing liberal amounts of adhesive caulking....the deck and frame on the drivers side front corner wicked water and it was trapped and rotted the ply. When I saw what had happened I immediately soaked the area with Smith's CPES several times till I got the gloss...let it dry and installed a SS plate over the plywood and under the seat. Well, the last trip we just returned from had indications that the jack was moving...ever so slightly but moving and the exterior seal had been broken....ugh

Took out the seat and voila....soft plywood under the SS backing plate...no more of an area damaged but the initial area had worsened. Difficult fix....seat out, wall apart...interior and exterior ply repairs...ugh. I'm on a camping schedule here and no time for this right now....so here's my fix...albeit temp....we'll see....

I'm resorting to a flood coat of west system epoxy with the jack bracket removed and the bolt holes taped over...so the flooded area continues under the seat ply and against the aluminum siding...then I'm having a SS corner bracket made to extend the weight transfer up the sides on the front plywood as well...all hidden by the foam seating and screwed into the ply from all angles...that should get me through the summer and fall...maybe even an Alaska trip....then we'll see...at 72 we'll see

Bottom line....use plenty of sealant....from what I know now...3M 4200....manageable after drying...if you're really serious about leaving everything in one place with no future mods....3M 5200....in the hole after drilling...all over the top of the bracket and when all that's dry...a final 1/2 inch bead against the siding to the bracket

Don't end up where I am...I have lots of little tricks but I don't like using them and feel a bit like a Clampert afterwards...

avoid Clampert ism's wherever possible....Do it right the first time