Removed the head banging push bar

Lobster

Advanced Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2016
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64
Location
Santa Barbara .
At the rally last week one owner removed his push bar over the bed and substituted a broom handle he kept elseware.
Got me thinking about a way to stop banging my head on the push bar and I came up with this.
A 1” square aluminum piece with a stainless steel cable attached to the aluminum frame on the lift panel.
I secured a piece of hard plastic through the holes left from removing the original bar.
When pushing up the roof, the end of the aluminum fits over the center nut.
When the roof is up, the aluminum is held against the roof with Velcro.
I added a snap as well which secures it better.
Could be sexier but works well and not banging my head.
Saved nearly 3 pounds as well
 

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Thanks Russ, I made a video that shows it working but alas, I can’t get it to post.
I’m sure some improvements could be made but it’s a good start.
Jim
 
Um. Looks like a good solution but I have some concerns. I'm not sure how it'll do in wind. Won't the panels collapse at the hinged portion a bit easier now since the support is higher? Ideally I think they'd rather have the push bar even lower to get a larger triangle support system but that'd be really a problem.
 
kmcintyre said:
Um. Looks like a good solution but I have some concerns. I'm not sure how it'll do in wind. Won't the panels collapse at the hinged portion a bit easier now since the support is higher? Ideally I think they'd rather have the push bar even lower to get a larger triangle support system but that'd be really a problem.
I was also wondering this - I would love to get rid of the head banging bar, but it seems that it is designed to prevent the hinge between the two parts of the lift panel from moving inwards, collapsing the roof. I wonder if you could something like the strap used on the other end to reduce the risk of the roof coming down with a strong wind from the front of the camper? Or does the cable serve this purpose?
 
Slomo, I used 1/16 stainless cable. I’m a salmon troller and have a mile or so laying around. It’s 600 Lb test.
The stops I used are brass that we crimp on. Not attractive but work well. I put one above and below to prevent the wire from migrating
out of place. I also crimped on either side of the aluminum tube to keep it centered as well. I think any flexible would work and they’re are probably more attractive stops available somewhere.

KM and Rando..at the rally Stan thought the New composite lift panels ‘should’ work without a brace. I have those. I don’t know if the spring loaded piano hinges are the reason he thought this or if they’ve been used all along. The guy with the broomstick put his aside after lifting and didn’t report having any problems.

I just went down and attempted to collapse the panel with my bar in place. The first move the lift panels make when coming down is toward the back of the camper. The cable is pulled taught almost immediately and the snap at the other end prevents the bar from moving aft. Tried it 7-8 times and half the time the snap held. On the times the snap came undone, the Velcro held the aluminum bar up and the rearward motion caused the bar to impact the plywood cross section used in first lifting the roof. It held very well no matter how hard I pulled. I don’t see a weak point here especially if the aluminum length is cut to fit close to the front panel and plywood.

I’ll try to post a video on you tube, I’ve never done that before so be patient.
If only I were a 12 year old...this would be easy
 
Really clean work and well documented.
I've always thought the "head banger" bar was a dangerous item, and have a very ugly wrap of pipe insulation on ours.

We've got old ply lift panels with photo-finish interior on our 2008 Hawk.
I'm not sure they are as flexible and tough as the newer composite panels.
 
Lobster and Bill...send your idea to Stan. Maybe they will incorporate the idea going forward.
I'm tired of hitting my head too.
 
If you don’t mind I am going to give this a shot on my 2011 Fleet tonight. I have the non composite panels so I may be able to provide pointers to those in that category. I am thinking of adding some 3M dual lock to the panels to add some “stay open” security. Don’t see why you couldn’t add a knob and strap like the rear if you are really worried about it closing on you at night.
 
What a great idea! Well done Lobster!

Last May, camping at the hot springs at the Alvord in SE Oregon, we experienced a late season snow storm with winds approaching 70 MPH. Was NOT fun!

I'm wondering if we remove the factory head banger push bar, will the front push panels be more likely to collapse during a high wind event?

I'm also wonder it is possible to latch the front push panel (like the rear) to prevent unwanted collapsing?
 
With how catastrophic a collapsing roof could be when sleeping and how easy it is to put up (takes me ~5 seconds), I am surprised more don't use a vertical support post. I like fail-safe.
 
After some trials I’ve modified some aspects of the new bar.
My 2 75lb. Labs are supposed to sleep in the lower bunk yet at 5:30 each morning they seem to be in the upper bed with us.
They were knocking the bar loose with their wagging tails as the front was only held up with Velcro, the rear with Velcro and a snap.
I built a new bar with a small lip and routed out a small gap in the lifting panel.
I also added a strap with a snap in the back.
This has really worked out well as far as locking the bar in place.AC333A88-1E6B-44CB-AFBE-C155CA34B0F8.jpeg2B107EF2-C73B-454D-AD1E-FFDFE2E67014.jpeg
 

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