Rig Build with FWC Hawk

[Vic Harder]

Progress is so rewarding!

Jon R's comments are bang on too. The only suggestion I would make is to use 4AWG wire instead of 6AWG. Just doing the math the 6AWG might be borderline for a sustained 40A (worst case) draw. Will 6AWG be fine? Likely. Just sayin'

 

[Jon R]

My 6 awg recommendation is based on my assumption that my wire run is about as long as it could be for any slide-in FWC, with my cclb and the Grandby FD having the battery compartment and the Orion in the rear corner. My Orion 12/12-30 with 6 awg does not cycle to check engine running at any time (which is what you are trying to avoid). My truck has a smart alternator. The highest current I have seen the Orion draw is 35 amps. I think 6 awg is adequate, and it is the maximum size wire the Orion connectors will take. You can’t go wrong with 4 awg, but I don't think it’s necessary and has some additional installation hassles and cost. If the OP would like a careful measurement of my wire length and voltage loss I can do that given some notice.

 

[jclifb]

I am likely going to add the DC-DC charger at some point in a couple of months before we head out on our 8 week trip to Banff.

I'll plan on drawing out the system for some advice here before ordering/installing!

 

[Beach]

In responce to JonR's question. " I BELIEVE the solar wires coming from the solar charger, if you have one from the factory, are connected directly to the battery so the solar system can charge the battery even when the silver kill switch is off (can someone with factory solar please confirm this?)." This is how my 05 Hawk is wired with the factory panel.

 

[jclifb]

In responce to JonR's question. " I BELIEVE the solar wires coming from the solar charger, if you have one from the factory, are connected directly to the battery so the solar system can charge the battery even when the silver kill switch is off (can someone with factory solar please confirm this?)." This is how my 05 Hawk is wired with the factory panel.

Mine is pre-wired for solar but I am not sure if they are connected directly to the battery or not. I think FWC did a video that explained that there is a loom of wires in the cabinet you need to hook the solar controller to...

Will wait for a more seasoned response as well though.

 

[Vic Harder]

In either case, I can't imagine that the solar wiring is "connected directly to the battery" There has to be a Solar controller in there....

 

[Jon R]

In either case, I can't imagine that the solar wiring is "connected directly to the battery" There has to be a Solar controller in there....

Yes, sorry. That is what I meant - solar charger connected to the battery.

On my 2021 Grandby, for which I did not order factory solar panels or charger, the factory wires from the exterior panel connectors were routed to the battery compartment and coiled and secured. There was enough factory wire length I was able to route the factory panel wires directly to my Victron MPPT I installed in the battery compartment with no splice.

 

[jclifb]

Got the power all buttoned up I believe for now.

So I have it correctly, when I am unplugged I need the knob on the right side of the electrical cabinet to be pulled out so that I am running from battery power and pushed in when I am plugged in to run on shore power only?

 

[Jon R]

The knob needs to be pulled out to connect your battery to the fuse panel main bus for either drawing from the battery or for charging the battery from the IP22. If it’s pushed in, the IP22 will just serve as a power supply and the battery will be isolated from the fuse panel and charger.

 

[pvstoy]

The knob needs to be pulled out to connect your battery if you want the battery to be charging. If it’s pushed in, the IP22 will just serve as a power supply and the battery will be isolated from the fuse panel and charger.

Yes... concur

 

[jclifb]

The knob needs to be pulled out to connect your battery if you want the battery to be charging. If it’s pushed in, the IP22 will just serve as a power supply and the battery will be isolated from the fuse panel and charger.

Gotcha! Thank you! Any time I should push the knob in then?

 

[Jon R]

Note that I edited my previous response to be more precise - you might want to look at it again.

You normally have the battery switch off during storage to prevent battery discharge by the CO detector or anything you left on. Another time would be while doing minor, fuse-protected electrical work on the camper if you are not physically disconnecting the battery. When camping it’s on the whole time for me because I have a compressor fridge. This switch is also the first thing you go for if something is malfunctioning and you’re not sure what’s going on.

Edit: My battery itself has a shutoff switch and an SB175 connector (rather than terminals) that can’t be disconnected without moving the battery. So I use that battery switch as my method to disconnect the battery while doing electrical work. Unless you install a separate battery switch at the battery (like on a boat), I’d recommend disconnecting from the battery terminals when doing electrical work.

 

[jclifb]

Note that I edited my previous response to be more precise - you might want to look at it again.

You normally have the battery switch off during storage to prevent battery discharge by the CO detector or anything you left on. Another time would be while doing minor, fuse-protected electrical work on the camper if you are not physically disconnecting the battery. When camping it’s on the whole time for me because I have a compressor fridge. This switch is also the first thing you go for if something is malfunctioning and you’re not sure what’s going on.

Edit: My battery itself has a shutoff switch and an SB175 connector (rather than terminals) that can’t be disconnected without moving the battery. So I use that battery switch as my method to disconnect the battery while doing electrical work. Unless you install a separate battery switch at the battery (like on a boat), I’d recommend disconnecting from the battery terminals when doing electrical work.

Understood. Thanks for the insight. I thought I was disconnecting the battery from the system with the knob, but seems like it'd be a relatively simple solution to add a switch on the main line from the battery to truly disconnect the battery from the system.

I'll likely follow your example of having the knob out while camping and in while storing.

 

[jclifb]

The F-250 got new shoes this weekend! 35" Falken Wildpeak AT's. I have been a BFG guy for a good 20 years on my trucks, but figured I'd give these a shot this time around.

I only went 35" for two reasons: my wife is short and already has to climb in the truck with OEM 33" tires, and with 3.73 gearing, I didn't want to make the big truck any slower and affect MPG's more. Trade-offs indeed, but these will do nicely for the type of adventure we tend to go on!

 

[Beach]

You are correct Vic. Solar Panel to controller direct to the battery. I was asuming that JonR meant the charge output from the contoller when he used the term "charger"

 

[jclifb]

I have been busy getting the truck ready to better support the camper for long periods of time by adding an AirLift airbag system to the F-250. Install was time-consuming by myself, but overall doable with great directions from the company.

 

[jclifb]

I also noticed the table for the front dinette liked to wiggle down and lower as its swiveled to and fro. So I ordered a couple of metal collars to prevent the table from moving past the point the collar is set to. A simple hack, but I imagine will be nice to have when in the camper for weeks on end! I ordered two. One for the bottom post and one for the upper post.

 

[Jon R]

I also noticed the table for the front dinette liked to wiggle down and lower as its swiveled to and fro. So I ordered a couple of metal collars to prevent the table from moving past the point the collar is set to. A simple hack, but I imagine will be nice to have when in the camper for weeks on end! I ordered two. One for the bottom post and one for the upper post.

IMG_0134.jpg

Can you post a link to what you bought? Thanks

 

[jclifb]

Can you post a link to what you bought? Thanks

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00207ULIC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Notice that the price of two is much more than just buying two singles. Why? No idea.

 

[pvstoy]

Those seem cheap enough.

On my Hawk flatbed the table is in the rear and if table is too high it could swing around and shatter the rear window if it would hit to hard on a ruff road. I guess it could happen on a front table model also. There were pictures that someone posted that they broke their front window.

Mine also would shimmy down so I went ultra cheap and had some leftover 2" electrical conduit. Cut to length and set the table where we enjoy the height. The writeup and pictures were here somewhere but could not find it. Images attached.
.