Some folks have been asking for more detail on the roof lifter I made. The first pictures didn't give much detail.
The lifter is made from 1" and 3/4" steel tubing. The stationary piece is a 46" long 3/4" tube with a 16" long 1" tube as a slide guide. The slider is 3/4" tube 46" long. The feet are 1 2/2" wide by 3 1/2 long. I bolted the slide guide on but it could be welded and have a cleaner look. Most of the materials I had around the shop so I just used what came to hand. I used a velcro band on the bottom of the slider to keep it aligned but a guide of some sort could be fabbed.
The u bolt at the bottom keeps the pulley block from binding against the side. The pulley blocks are hardware grade and I will use something like a couple of Harken dinghy micro blocks for a smoother action in the future. I may move the top pulley block out away from the slide guide as it tends to lay at an angle and binds the pulley slightly.
Weighs about eight pounds. I store it strapped to the floor next to the cabinet. Put something like the door mat under the foot when lifting heavy loads. What I like is I can sit on the couch, raise the roof section, lock it off with the cleat and set the end panel. It really helps when lowering with a load on the top as you use the cleat to add friction to the rope and can control the load as it comes down.
I had to move the front lift point back about five inches to allow a straight lift angle. The bumpers allow the top foot to clear the slide bolt on the rear section. I used sash pulls on the lifting plates to keep the top from shifting and going through the roof. I do have to lift slightly off center on the front to clear the panel setting rod but it works fine.
Desertrat
The lifter is made from 1" and 3/4" steel tubing. The stationary piece is a 46" long 3/4" tube with a 16" long 1" tube as a slide guide. The slider is 3/4" tube 46" long. The feet are 1 2/2" wide by 3 1/2 long. I bolted the slide guide on but it could be welded and have a cleaner look. Most of the materials I had around the shop so I just used what came to hand. I used a velcro band on the bottom of the slider to keep it aligned but a guide of some sort could be fabbed.
The u bolt at the bottom keeps the pulley block from binding against the side. The pulley blocks are hardware grade and I will use something like a couple of Harken dinghy micro blocks for a smoother action in the future. I may move the top pulley block out away from the slide guide as it tends to lay at an angle and binds the pulley slightly.
Weighs about eight pounds. I store it strapped to the floor next to the cabinet. Put something like the door mat under the foot when lifting heavy loads. What I like is I can sit on the couch, raise the roof section, lock it off with the cleat and set the end panel. It really helps when lowering with a load on the top as you use the cleat to add friction to the rope and can control the load as it comes down.
I had to move the front lift point back about five inches to allow a straight lift angle. The bumpers allow the top foot to clear the slide bolt on the rear section. I used sash pulls on the lifting plates to keep the top from shifting and going through the roof. I do have to lift slightly off center on the front to clear the panel setting rod but it works fine.
Desertrat