roof lifter thingy strut strength with solar panel?

[hpcbmw]

I've got a 1997 Granby. A couple years ago ATC installed a set of 40 lb lift struts to help with lifting the roof. I've since installed a solar panel to the front section of the roof. I didn't weigh it, but I suspect it weighs about 35 lbs. Now, it's very hard to lift the front of the roof. I'm going to buy heavier lift struts, but wondering how heavy i should go? I called ATC and they didn't have any suggestions, saying the max they install is 40lb struts, but also saying that heavier struts should not be a problem with the frame of the roof.

Should I go to 60 lbs or 80 lbs up front? The back still lifts just fine, but the front is really difficult to lift, especially when the bed is slid out, and I can't get under the wooden cross brace on the ceiling that I'm told is where your shoulder should go to lift the front panel. Plus, I'm not too tall, so I don't have as much leverage as a 6 footer would have.

Thanks!

 

[W6USA]

Keep in mind the FWC factory recommends 40 lbs as a max.

Have you tried lifting the front section first?

I'd always push the bed slide in so I could get under the wooden cross brace before looking to add stronger than 40 struts. Another thing you might consider is a "speaker lift".

 

[395traveler]

I just recently bulged a disc in my back and now lifting the front of my camper can be painful. I have a solar panel and two 40lb lifters up front and I called the parts dept. at FWC to see about getting more powerful lifters. He explained to me that getting more powerful lifters would not solve my problem because the problem is when you first start the lift the lifters don't start helping till the top comes up a little bit and heavier lifters don't help with that. He recommended that I get speaker lifters to help with the first part of the lift.
I tested his theory and he was right, once I got the top up a little bit the lifters worked great. So I am going to get the speaker lifters to help with this.
Also on a side note, I have called FWC about several other things lately and have always been helped right away with very patient and thoughtful advice. I have never dealt with a manufacturer of a product so accessible and knowledgeable about there their product.
Peter K.

 

[Alley-Kat]

I have an ATC Bobcat originally installed with 30 lb. gas shocks.
After installing my 28 lb solar panel as far forward as possible on the roof I went with two 50 lb. front gas shocks.

Totally agree with W6USA...
Close the over cab bed to be in the correct spot to push the front up, there is no substitute for this.
However, I raise the rear section first.

When I put my kayaks on the roof I use the Guitar Center Speaker Stand crank up center section to raise the roof.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I have the 40# lifters front/rear.
Have no trouble lifting the roof,although have never been able to lift the front first.
Always lift the back than the front actually lifts itself.
I don't have any weight on the front.
But when I carried our canoe I was still able to lift both front and rear without any other style of lifter.
That said I made a "lever lifter device" as per member Les at "lqhikers" made. It's a very simple device.Haven't used it though but carry it. Stores out of the way. Actually hangs along the bottom of the small over the window cabinet.
Frank

 

[97grandby]

I added two flex panels for 240 watts on my roof for maybe 6-8 lbs on my 1997 grandby and can't even notice I added anything on. I don't have any roof lift assist and can't imagine I would add them now. I know DrJ added a really heavy panel on his and seemed like he went with 60 lb lift assist and hasn't had any issues. Good chance he will chime in.

 

[DrJ]

I did go with the higher lift assist - 50 lbs front and rear if I remember correctly.
I've had no issues so far with it.

I believe the reason that FWC doesn't want higher than 40 lbs is that it's challenging to get the roof down after that.

I close the door and turn on my fan when I take the roof down. It comes down perfectly down with almost no effort on my part.

If I didn't do that it would take some effort to pull the front lift bar down.

 

[hpcbmw]

Thanks for all the input. I'm hesitant to put on heavier struts, after calling FWC, plus I got a quote of $100 for the heavier struts-more than I want to spend if I'm not positive it will fix the problem.

I'm considering moving the solar panel to the middle of the roof, instead of the front. I also might take off the heavy 80w solar panel and instead install an old 15w harbor freight panel, which is MUCH smaller and lighter. I've posted in the tech forum to see if the 15w panel is enough to keep my battery charged when the camper is sitting outside for weeks at a time.

I've just pulled the camper into the garage to start working on replacing all my roof screws to try to fix a water leak. I plan to sort out the solar panel issue while doing the roof project.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

It would seem that the 15w would keep the battery up as long as there's no draw.
Frank

PS Rereading your first post,I don't understand why you are having that problem lifting the front.
When I carried the canoe I am sure there was at least your same weight over the front and I had no problem lifting the front with the 40# struts.
I could even lift the roof with the canoe before I had struts but it was heavy.
But I have a Bobcat ,but don't see where that would make a difference.
Frank

 

[hpcbmw]

I just took off the solar panel and it only weighs 20 lbs, so it doesn't seem like it would make a huge difference. When I roll the camper out of the garage I'll pop the top and see what difference it makes. I suspect the real problem is that I was trying to pop the top with the bed pulled out, and I didn't have enough leverage to start the top raising because I was pushing from too far back. I'll test this also when I get the camper out of the garage.

 

[Beach]

I found it was much harder to lift the roof if I didn't put the rear up first. After the rear is up I crouch on the seat over the water tank and put my shoulder against the lift panel and straighten up shoving the brace rod fwd at the same time. This method works better than any other way I've have tried. Don't think it will work well if your back isn't good though.

 

[rando]

I have a brand new Fleet flatbed, with 30lb (I think that is what the 'standard' is) gas struts and have been quite surprised how difficult it is to lift the front roof with a 30lb solar panel up there. I am a relatively fit and healthy 30 something, and it takes most of my effort to get the front part of my roof up. It wasn't exactly easy to lift without the panel on the roof, and now it is definitely difficult. I am wondering what the difference is that some people seem to have no issues, where as others are struggling? Do others have less horizontal gas struts for more initial help with the lift?

I am thinking about switching to one or two 120W semi-flexible panels (https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?products_id=3083) in order to lighten the load and maybe change out the gas shocks - although I understand vectors well enough to know that the shocks won't help much with the initial lift.

 

[Timothy McGowen]

I have a 160w panel on my roof with the stock struts. A couple of things I have noticed to make it easier are 1). make sure the rear door is open (maximum make up air flow) 2). Be patient while lifting. When pushing up the front push it up a few inches then go slow. If you go too fast you are fighting the piston. If you go slow you will soon notice the struts kick in and assist in the lift. Then you can push a little harder/faster. The first third or so of the strut is fighting a steep angle.