roof lifting helper shocks thingys

Awesome thread. I read through every page, but I never saw a picture of anybody who mounted their hardware on the side. I mainly would like to know if people mounted them with the cylinder facing towards the front or towards the back, or if this really matters. the door on my '84 fleet has a raingutter that makes mounting the hardware above the door impossible. In front, I can do the installation no problem, but alas, in back, no dice. Anybody have pictures or advice? Thanks!
 
I have a ATC bobcat and the inside dimension is 6'4". The owner had the height customized. Will the 900mm gas shocks be too short?
 
ski3pin said:
I think that could be handled with placement of the brackets to accommodate. We have higher lift panels on our ATC Bobcat
Click to expand...
Yeah, with the roof up, you can figure out where the roof and side mounts will go. As long as the shock is long enough you'd be good. Just to be safe, be sure to drop the roof and measure that your shock isn't too long (it needs to compress and fit between the roof mounting position and the side/wall mount). I'm assuming you'll mount on the interior by the way... If you're doing exterior, the process is probably similar.
 
OK, I read through this thread 3 times trying to ascertain what force shock thingies (they are actually air springs not shocks) to use on the front of my Grandby. Seems the majority is 40 lbf, but some use higher (up to 100 lbf?) force springs.

Today, I went out and cobbled together a test of how much I am lifting at the front. With the rear raised and locked, lifting 22" from the front (as close to the front as I can get with the lift panels), I am seeing ~100 lbf to lift the front :eek: Does this seem right? Has anyone else actually measured the force needed to raise the roof?

My camper:
1977 Grandby with 24" overhang, ceiling is 1/8" wood paneling, 200W solar on front of roof = ~35 lbf, Maxxfan in back.
I currently use a speaker stand jack to raise the roof, front and rear.

My setup:
Bathroom scale, scissors jack, wood blocks = 14.2 lbf.

The test:
With the rear raised, raised the front ~1/2 way so I could fit the jack on the overhang. Located the jack as close to the lift panels without touching and proceded to finish the lift with the scissors jack, while monitoring the scale. Took 5 readings on the way up (about every 3") and 4 going down. Readings varied from 95 lbf just before lock to 103 lbf at 1/2 way. Numbers were repeatable X2.

I am going to try to borrow a better system and re-do the measurements, as I was expecting 60 - 70 lbf, not 100. Maybe this explains why my roof bows so much when I raise the front (which is why I am considering adding the springs).

jim
 
Purchased my struts from strut-your-stuff-here on eBay. With 2 100 watt rigid panels mounted forward on the roof I wanted a bit of extra lift and they had 50# struts for the same price as 40# struts so I put the two 50's in front and two 40's in the back,. Used offset brackets on the bottom and flat brackets on the top.

While lifting isn't effortless it is much better than before and easier than it was in front before the solar panels. There is definitely a break-over point in lifting the front where all of a sudden things get MUCH easier. Lowering the roof comes down ever so slowly and stays down with no problems and if I need to lift it up a little on the outside to tuck in a bit of material that didn't fold in quite right it is much easier than before..

Edit to add: One other note the screws around the top are nowhere near symmetrical or even in their spacing so any hopes of having things even and using the same holes on both sides was quickly lost.
 
I have read all the forums about the roof struts for various applications. but do have a question. I really want to do the same as ETAV8R has done, however I have a 2001 Eagle and from what I am reading in the forums, my interior height is different (shorter) than that of the newer Eagles. My question is, on an older Eagle interior strut mount, can I use the Suspa C16-18869 as ETAV8R and just move the roof bracket to make of for the extra length, or is there a better length strut that I should be using?
 
MarkBC said:
OK, here's an issue/question that I didn't see asked/mentioned (though I only read the last 10 pages of this thread):
I see most pictures showing the two brackets that are closer together (could be on top or on the bottom) are usually mounted as close together as possible -- even when there's room to spread them wider, such as in this photo:

Maybe it's fine to do it this way....but is there an advantage to putting the close-together ends as close as possible -- if spacing isn't limited by the roof latches?
Click to expand...
I know this is an old post, but maybe this will help someone...
http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/news/tcm-exclusive-2015-four-wheel-camper-announcements/



Mike
 
BobM said:
I think the GC speaker stand is the only way to go. I bought a cheap 7.2 volt drill that has a small ac adapter and I can put up the roof in seconds. If I don't have hookups I just charge the drill with my stock Ram AC outlet.
Click to expand...
Here is my experience with my On Stage SS8800BPLUS Speaker Stand...

Bought 7/29/2012: used 89 nights since then, times 2 up/downs of speaker stand = 178... round up for the very few times we would use other than spending the night = 225 up/downs.

On our 11,555 mile bucket list trip (52 nights in camper), I noticed the cranking was getting MUCH harder. When we got home I opened up the speaker stand and it had ALOT of brass "dust" in the unit. It appears the steel gear eats the brass gear.

So, instead of buying another speaker stand (at AMZ for $59 back then), I will be doing the "roof lifting helper shocks thingys".

Mike

EDIT: the SUSPA company in Grand Rapids, MI is only 55 miles driving from my house. Hmm, many good breweries in GR. Of course, the shipping would be cheaper than the beer. :)
 
Lighthawk said:
I contacted Jeff at ATC ... with three sets of off-set brackets and one pair of flat brackets (front bottom location).
Click to expand...
I called Marty a few days ago, he said the only FLAT brackets were rear top.

I have an '08 ATC Cougar with two Fantastic 3 Speed Fans and the "Luggage and Boat Rack" option (about 16' of 1" square tubing).

Maybe ATC & FWC models have different setups?

Mike
 
Can someone tell me how the struts attach to the studs? Is there are bolt or clip? My 2015 Hawk came with tab/studs. I'm thinking about adding some exterior struts. Thanks.
 
I have a '12 Eagle and was going to do the relocation to the outside, however I didn't want to relocate the latches. The less holes the better... Anyways, I found that Suspa makes Quick Disconnects for the struts. I used the D68-01095 which has an M8 thread. The D68-01094 is an M6 thread. If you decide to go this route make sure you know what thread your struts have since Suspa has a no return policy. To get the original ends off I cut a piece of fuel line to protect the shaft and used a pair of Vice Grips and an open end wrench on the End Fitting. I the cylinder end I used the hose and a pair of Channel Locks along the very end of the cylinder.

Here's the link to the product page: https://shop.suspa.com/d68-01095-end-fitting-p4981.aspx
 
flinchlock said:
I called Marty a few days ago, he said the only FLAT brackets were rear top.

I have an '08 ATC Cougar with two Fantastic 3 Speed Fans and the "Luggage and Boat Rack" option (about 16' of 1" square tubing).

Maybe ATC & FWC models have different setups?

Mike
Click to expand...
Pretty weird replying to myself...

I talked with Jeff two days ago and he said they now ONLY use the offset brackets, and they first mount the roof brackets 10" in and let the bottom brackets end wherever.

Mike
 
Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents. I just got rid of my trashed plywood lift panels, built some EMT lift panels/tubes as others here have done and installed struts front and rear. I used 40lbs in the rear and 30lbs in the front both are 36 inch extended in length.
Also I used the offset brackets. I ordered mine on ebay from Mike at strut your stuff came in about 2 days.
I COULDN'T BE HAPPIER!!!

I have had this camper for 15 years and always had issues with the plywood panels warping rotting and the lifting.
It goes up with a slight push now, even had my 10 year old daughter do it today just because I couldn't believe how easy it lifted.
A little pressure to get it started and then it basically goes up on its own.
Unfortunately, now I have to fix the canvas where the rivets from the old style lift panels left holes/scrapes. I am convinced that unless you are using the newer composite panels they should be resting in the trashcan. Again, my opinion.
Happy to be popping up my camper with ease in a matter of minutes again and not wondering what leaks mold etc... may be behind the old wood panels.
 
Hi Guys,

I have the struts, and know that I need the offset mounting brackets from Suspa... but what size/type of screws did you use? I can't find this info anywhere, and don't want to destroy my camper!

Thanks so much,
Riley

'14 Raven
 
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