roof lifting helper shocks thingys

[pvstoy]

Hawk owners or even Grandby. I'm planning on two 180 watt ridge solar panels on the roof mounted between the two vents in the middle of the roof. Weight will be around 55 pounds.

Who has done similar and what pound weight struts are you using?

Right now there is 20 pounders front and back and the few times I have poped up it seems that is not enough to assist. What experience do you have having the weight in the center of the roof?

Thanks....

 

[Outnabout]

I have a 160 watt panel between the vents but more close to the forward vent on my Grandby. I use 40lbs in the front and 30lbs in the back. It still takes some umpf to get the front up. Easier when I raise slower.

 

[pvstoy]

Factory tells me that I should have 20 rear and 40 front from factory. Need to check front again but the paint is wearing off to make sure it was 20 or? They suggested with 55 pounds for solar in the middle of the roof between roof vents to have 40 rear and 60 front.

 

[Vic Harder]

I have a 265W panel on the very front of my Hawk (no vent). 40# front, 30# rear. This makes for a "balanced" roof, meaning it requires a slight tug to get down, and still needs a push to get started, but will not "lift" on it's own either.

 

[pvstoy]

Thanks Vic. I will be at factory next week and will discuss my set up.

 

[Advmoto18]

I have a 265W panel on the very front of my Hawk (no vent). 40# front, 30# rear. This makes for a "balanced" roof, meaning it requires a slight tug to get down, and still needs a push to get started, but will not "lift" on it's own either.

Vic

Do you have the P/N for the rear 30# strut?
Thanks!

Bill

 

[Vic Harder]

Vic

Do you have the P/N for the rear 30# strut?
Thanks!

Bill

Front and rear are same size/lenght.

30# - C16-22241

40# - C16-15952

Note, this does not include the brackets. I got Stainless Steel ones from West Marine, part number 1891.

 

[Advmoto18]

Front and rear are same size/lenght.

30# - C16-22241

40# - C16-15952

Note, this does not include the brackets. I got Stainless Steel ones from West Marine, part number 1891.

Thanks!

Did you use self tapping screws through the skin directly into the camper's frame tubing?

Thx again!

 

[Vic Harder]

These are the instructions I used:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/12729-lift-strutsgas-spring-install-on-1982-grandby-keep-rain-gutter-too/?p=148007

I used existing holes from the rain gutter I had on my Hawk, and drilled a couple of small pilot holes. Then just used galvanized 3/4" #8 wood/metal screws to attach the plates. And Dicor sealant in the holes and on the screw once I was happy with the installation/operation of the lift.

Pilot hole

Mount like so

Mounted

Installed

 

[Advmoto18]

Thanks Vic!

I just ordered the C16-22241 from Suspa. 3-4 week lead time. Not an issue.

I have the factory inside struts at the forward bulkhead which easily lift the front of the camper. The wife is having great difficulty (impossible really) raising the rear. I was leaning towards the 40# for the rear, but that seems to be a bit much even with the solar panel on the roof. 30# in the rear seems perfect as you and others have stated.

Thanks for the "how to" pics!

Bill

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Thanks Vic!

I just ordered the C16-22241 from Suspa. 3-4 week lead time. Not an issue.

I have the factory inside struts at the forward bulkhead which easily lift the front of the camper. The wife is having great difficulty (impossible really) raising the rear. I was leaning towards the 40# for the rear, but that seems to be a bit much even with the solar panel on the roof. 30# in the rear seems perfect as you and others have stated.

Thanks for the "how to" pics!

Bill

Bill, the speaker lift does a good job raising the roof if you don't want to go with gas struts. They are a bit clumsy, but effective.

Steve

 

[Advmoto18]

Bill, the speaker lift does a good job raising the roof if you don't want to go with gas struts. They are a bit clumsy, but effective.

Steve

Thanks for the suggestion Steve!

I'm only installing the gas struts/springs on the rear. The wife can not lift the rear into place. It is a bit heavy and you have to use your legs to push the roof up into place. Not sure where I'd stow the speaker lift as we are already tight on space.

We have the inside struts and they work well lifting the front of the roof into place. I opted to not have exterior struts installed when I placed the order. Saw them as a corrosion point and I have no trouble raising the roof. I didn't consider the wife camping with her friends and not being able to raise the roof!

 

[john cotterman]

I just replaced all four 30 pounders with 40 pounders on my 2016 Fleet. I have a solar panel as well as a small storage box on top. It makes up and down much easier. I got them from Gemini in Canada, $25 ea. What I am not seeing much of in this discussion, however, is the technique of closing the camper door and using the roof fan to assist the raising and lowering. Exhaust the air out when lowering the roof, direct the fan in when raising (like inflating a balloon). I find, with a little added patience, that this help greatly...maybe even the equivalent of 10 pounds of lift. Lowering while having the fan sucking the air out also pulls in the vinyl sides and practically eliminates having any vinyl sticking out that needs to be tucked in once the roof is down.

 

[nikonron]

I just replaced all four 30 pounders with 40 pounders on my 2016 Fleet. I have a solar panel as well as a small storage box on top. It makes up and down much easier. I got them from Gemini in Canada, $25 ea. What I am not seeing much of in this discussion, however, is the technique of closing the camper door and using the roof fan to assist the raising and lowering. Exhaust the air out when lowering the roof, direct the fan in when raising (like inflating a balloon). I find, with a little added patience, that this help greatly...maybe even the equivalent of 10 pounds of lift. Lowering while having the fan sucking the air out also pulls in the vinyl sides and practically eliminates having any vinyl sticking out that needs to be tucked in once the roof is down.

I always close the door and put the fan on high exhaust when closing, pulls the canvas in perfectly. Ron

 

[Outnabout]

The exhaust fan is worth it if only used for popping down. [emoji106]

 

[boxturtle]

John Cotterman do you know the part #s for ordering the 40# struts from Gemini? sounds like the way to go. thanks

 

[a8ksh4]

Does anyone know the limit for lift height if we want to be able to use the helper shocks? I need to make a new canvas for the top I'm rebuilding and would like to know at which point I'm making it impossible to use the s shocks. I don't expect I can get 42"lift that is needed to be able to sit up in bed and still use them. [emoji14]

 

[The R1G Master]

Wow what a thread...... Did not have time to read it all but it seems dead now. Here's what I got. I have purchased the lift system from FWC. It is going on a 2007 Eagle. I need some clarification on the install process. I there anyone here that has done this successfully DIY???

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Did you read pages 4 and on?
The Saints and myself posted the way we mounted our struts.
This thread has a lot of info on doing the job your self.
It's not very hard as long as you have the parts.

My post has the part #s for the Supsa lifters and the brackets.

Frank

 

[joez3]

I think I read every thread on mounting the struts but I feel like I missed something. I hope someone can fill me in. I have a Grandby camper I order the 40lbs struts, I assume these are a good size.
More important where did you mount the pivot points. Does anyone have a measurement off center of the camper? Or is everyone mounting the lower pivot an 'inch' off the center of the camper. Then lift the roof and extend the strut and 'eye ball' the location for the upper mount point.
Thanks