Rotopax gas tank mount

buckland

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2011 Eagle and wanted to mount a rotopax gas tank on the rear wall. I have no LP fridge (I do have an Engel) so have access to inside wall. The photos show the approximate spot and also the aluminum plate which would go on the inside wall with through bolts. I have a neoprene gasket and would use a sealer.
Advice from those that have done this type of mount? Terry suggested going through a support piece but I think I might only hit with one bolt as it is a 6" circle plate.

I also wanted to mount 2 other tanks on a wire shelf (like a restaurant wire shelf) secured across the roof, attached to Yakima track slots using "T" slot bolts which would secure the shelf (like a basket). It would be below the racks so it won't get in the way of canoe. Any advice on this?
 

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One note of caution. When I did the mount on our All Terrain Camper, I soon found that the rotopax can rubbed the paint off of the aluminum siding. Road dust only made matters worse. The can expands as the gasoline expands in heat so more clearance is needed than you may initially think. I added a .25" thick aluminum plate under the mount and four stick on plastic spacers as pictured. This has solved the problem for me.

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Those are great ideas! Are those chair leg casters? Did you have hard material (i.e. plywood) or insulation only in the wall?
Great to have this forum to plumb the deep well of knowledge.
 
I believe those are table leg casters, 1.25" in diameter. They came in a pack of four with screws at True Value. I did not plan on using the screws and did not. When All Terrain Campers built our camper, I discussed with them the best re-enforcement to the frame to support the weight. Jeff placed a cross piece of the same channel that goes around the top of the camper. A piece of plywood is fitted inside the channel. It is a very solid mount that was designed as the camper was built.

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Great shot. "I wish I knew then what I know now" I would have done same but I did not know of the gas tanks when I got the camper... Not sure what's in the wall exactly. I really don't want to have to remove the inside wall to inspect but it seems like the only way to know for sure....that is ...unless someone out there took a photo of their FWC Eagle as it was being built (are they the same year to year?). Mine being a 2011. Thanks for the photo.
 
Does anyone have a photo of the rear wall frame of the Eagle (2011)? I do not want to remove the interior wall if possible. As I want to mount a through wall gas tank mount...I need an aluminum plate on the inside or within the wall. Do not want to jump ahead on this until I am sure.
 
Buckland,

This might give you a head start (http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/7050-stan-question-about-fwc-frame-weldment/) but I'd contact Brenda at FWC for more details. I have no idea what year those are or how things might have changed.

FYI even on a shell you may have wires on that side (even if you don't have a porch light over there) so it's worth at least peeking behind the wall to see what you can see. You don't necessarily have to take the wall off, although of course that'd be safer - you just need to remove the trim and a few wall screws and have a fair amount of patience...

Edited to add: looks like those pictures show a Hawk not Eagle. If you ask nicely, somebody at FWC might be able to snap a photo of an Eagle-in-progress, but I can't speak for them.
 
Thanks for your reply... Think your right..just gotta take some time and gently pry the panel off and see whats what, My nephew drilled into a wall last week to hit a stud and clipped a wire... his drill bit got fried but luckily not him. I did send a request to Terry... I'll try Brenda next.
 
I wonder if a third party makes larger gas tanks or will add a gas tank to the new trucks ???

I had dual 20 gallon saddle tanks with a cross-over pipe (fill both tanks from either side)in my old 1977 Chev Silverado crew cab - 454 V8. Boy 40 gallons at 8 mpg...'course gas was 75 cents a gallon back in the day. :oops:

And yes I'm "older than dirt"
 
The rotopax mount, albeit more expensive, will keep the cans off the wall a few millimeters and avoid any rubbing on your siding. Check the look out online or in my gallery. They have a built-in lip on the mount.
 
Bingo... Thanks so much for the link...clear as a bell! Why didn't I think of that!!?? Great solution and I sent the link on to Brenda so she could visualize what I was trying to do.
I have the Kolpin mount for the Rotopax 2 gallon tank. Was wondering where you got the square mount plate? Also I see the 2 tanks on extended lock. That's 4 gallons = about 35 lbs? How is that holding up on rough road banging around? Did you put an aluminum plate on the inside wall?
It sure looks good...I sure hope this is the solution as I almost never use that step...mostly the 2 lower ones. BTW I have an Eagle and I assume they are equally strong in that area.
 

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Well, on the weight question I'm 225 or so and the step never even flexed when I stood on it. Couple that with being mounted for several months without any issues and my bet is you're going to be alright. I can't speak for the kolpin mount option however.

The steps are mounted through a stud on both bolt holes from the factory. I hope this helps.

Edit: not sure who you're addressing, but my cans are 3.5 gallon each. 7 gallons is 44 pounds total on the back wall.
 
Oh, mine are 2 gallon rotopax. ...so I guess a 3 stack would work weight-wise..... alas the Hawk is different than the Eagle as to where they put the steps but there is the chance I can put the mount on if I drill through above the bottom step. I feel it wouldn't hurt to put a plate in on the inside as well.
 
Remember, the principle of leverage will be a consideration with a three stack.
 
Back again. After a lot of thought I decided on a new plan. Up until now I have carried a 5 gallon gas can on a shelf mounted on the back wall step on the right of the door. Worked well for a couple years and I will probably do so when the need exceeds my now 6 gallon set up. I wanted to mount on rear wall to left of door and still might go that way for addition fuel one day. My solar set up handles all the electric I need. The extra fuel is needed to get me out of where I go. Last year in the North Maine Woods we had traveled down 75 miles of logging road only to be faced with our road vanishing into a beaver dammed pond. It was choice of turning around and hoping I had enough fuel to get 'out' (using up 150 miles of fuel to get back to the place we were camping which was 60 miles in!
So I took down the wife's light weight canoe and set off down the 'road'... where I thought it was. I used a stick to measure the depth of water and 300 yards later came out on the other side. Seemed maybe doable. I was looking at 2 ½ feet of depth most of the way. I was also glad I had put a hose on the differential breather and tied it to the truck bed. I looked at my wife in that way that says "trust me" and got a look which said.... this might not be a great idea. At that point the flask comes out of the box and after we each took a bracer. we let'er rip. Well...the wave we created crossed the door windows ½ way up. We made it through and I think the finger dents in the steering wheel will come out. This only was the first crossing of the day. We ended up driving on top of a beaver dam in the next mile.
All this has made me realize I had better rethink the fuel supply. And here we are. The pictures are of the roof mounted set up. It is attached to the Yakima tracks with their hardware. Very secure and the rack could be used for other stuff without the boats up there. The tanks are ½" below the bar and don't interfere with the boats. The straps hold them in the 1 ½" high perimeter. I posted an album "need for extra fuel" in the gallery Gallery.
 

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buckland said:
Back again. After a lot of thought I decided on a new plan. Up until now I have carried a 5 gallon gas can on a shelf mounted on the back wall step on the right of the door. Worked well for a couple years and I will probably do so when the need exceeds my now 6 gallon set up. I wanted to mount on rear wall to left of door and still might go that way for addition fuel one day. My solar set up handles all the electric I need. The extra fuel is needed to get me out of where I go. Last year in the North Maine Woods we had traveled down 75 miles of logging road only to be faced with our road vanishing into a beaver dammed pond. It was choice of turning around and hoping I had enough fuel to get 'out' (using up 150 miles of fuel to get back to the place we were camping which was 60 miles in!
So I took down the wife's light weight canoe and set off down the 'road'... where I thought it was. I used a stick to measure the depth of water and 300 yards later came out on the other side. Seemed maybe doable. I was looking at 2 ½ feet of depth most of the way. I was also glad I had put a hose on the differential breather and tied it to the truck bed. I looked at my wife in that way that says "trust me" and got a look which said.... this might not be a great idea. At that point the flask comes out of the box and after we each took a bracer. we let'er rip. Well...the wave we created crossed the door windows ½ way up. We made it through and I think the finger dents in the steering wheel will come out. This only was the first crossing of the day. We ended up driving on top of a beaver dam in the next mile.
All this has made me realize I had better rethink the fuel supply. And here we are. The pictures are of the roof mounted set up. It is attached to the Yakima tracks with their hardware. Very secure and the rack could be used for other stuff without the boats up there. The tanks are ½" below the bar and don't interfere with the boats. The straps hold them in the 1 ½" high perimeter. I posted an album "need for extra fuel" in the gallery Gallery.
How much harder is it to raise the roof with the added weight? I am looking at options and do not know if I want to mess with drilling into the side of the camper and the added weight hanging off of it.
 
This is where, after this summer's 12,00 mile AK YK trip, I now know what is needed when. The tanks sit up there empty. When I get to a crossroads where I know fuel is iffy, they are filled. So not an issue at all with lifting roof. That said I was in the Yukon and had no other choice (even with diesel and getting 22 mpg with a 21 gallon tank) we knew we could get in but not out with a safety margin. The the tanks were filled and yup I removed them before pop up... took 2 minutes. I think with the top down the weight is best distributed, and I am now leery of weight on a vertical aluminum 1" frame when bouncing down a rough road for miles. Can't be good.
 

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