Shore power not working

[Swamp Creature]

Proud new owner of a used FWC (an 04 Grandby). When I plug it in to shore power nothing happens. Everything works fine on the dc auxiliary battery. The extension cord and house socket I’m using work fine. No blown fuses, no tripped circuits, all wiring seems to be connected. The previous owner said shore power worked fine last time he tried it. Am I missing something? The main reason I want to use shore power is to pre cool the fridge.

 

[pvstoy]

On the face of the sink/stove cabinet is there a door that has the fuses and circuit breakers? If you find the 120 volt breakers try flipping them on and of a few times. Might check the outside plug and wiggle your input plug around to see if it makes a better contact.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I think Patrick has the answer...

 

[XJINTX]

GPF reset?

 

[Swamp Creature]

Thanks for the reply. I tried flipping the breaker switches multiple times and wiggled / re-attached the exterior plug. Still nothing.

 

[Swamp Creature]

If you mean pushing the “test” and “reset” buttons, yes I have tried that.

 

[knoxswift]

Is there an LED on the IOTA Converter?

https://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/dls_troubleshoot.pdf

 

[ClimberRob]

To clarify, you are getting power to the 120v outlet, but nothing to the 12v system, correct? If so, it's a problem with the IOTA unit. Mine died and I replaced it with a Victron charger.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

To clarify, you are getting power to the 120v outlet, but nothing to the 12v system, correct? If so, it's a problem with the IOTA unit. Mine died and I replaced it with a Victron charger.

If that’s the case, I believe there is an onboard fuse (hidden?) in the IOTA. There was a thread on this last year or so.

 

[pvstoy]

I think Swamp Creature is trying to plug into shore power and run the refg on 120 volt ac power. If that is the case then the IOTA is not needed for this. The 120 volt power comes in and goes to the circuit breakers. Then a leg is fed to the IOTA and there is a direct line to the AC outlet, that should have a GFI. Open the outside access to the refrigerator and you will see the 120 Volt cord that runs the refrigerator, follow that to a 120 volt plug in. It could be seen from outside or you have to look behind the inside cabinet for the plug. If you do find the plug end then you can unplug it and directly plug it to a know working source to meet your goal, To pre- cool the refrigerator on 120 volt ac before the trip.

As to why the stuff in the middle is not working, I can't say without tracing every lead.

 

[Swamp Creature]

Thanks ClimberRob. I think we are onto something. I do in fact have power at my 120v socket inside the camper when I’m connected to shore power. It appears to be the only thing in the camper that works with shore power. I’ll take a look for the “hidden” onboard fuse inside the iota. Also, if it needs replacing, which victron unit did you go with? Was it an easy job an ambitious amateur could attempt?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Here’s a link to the thread I was thinking of... check around posts 11-12.

 

[Old Crow]

-snip-
I do in fact have power at my 120v socket inside the camper when I’m connected to shore power. It appears to be the only thing in the camper that works with shore power. I’ll take a look for the “hidden” onboard fuse inside the iota.
-snip-

Just a note: An 04 Grandby may have two Iotas--- an Iota IDP-30 'load center' (AC and DC distribution panel) and an Iota DLS-30 charger/converter.

I'm not sure that's the case here but I believe FWC was using IDP-30 load centers around that time.

If we take a look at wuck's photos in post 7 of the where's the converter thread, I think we're seeing an IDP-30 pulled out for access to the DLS-30 behind it. That's an 04 Hawk so it may be the same for an 04 Grandby.

As pvstoy says above, the DLS-30 charger/converter would not be involved in a no-AC-to-fridge problem.

.

 

[Swamp Creature]

Thanks Old Crow. That’s exactly what I have. I was thinking the idp-30 was the converter. I’ll investigate further and let you know what I find. I really appreciate the support.

 

[Swamp Creature]

Sweet. 30 amp fuse located! I’m not sure if it was blown cause it broke when I removed it. I’ll find a replacement and see what happens.

 

[wuck]

Ah, Old Crow beat me to it

The DLS-30 converter in my '04 Hawk was behind the LP/CO monitor/alarms I had the load center out to trace the wires around.

One thing I learned the hard way is the "Reverse Protection Fuse" on the converter is held in place by two small screws - not the standard slip in socket.

Whoops, swamp creature was typing while I was - I see he found it and broke the fuse. Did you find the small screws holding it in place?

 

[Swamp Creature]

Wuck, yep, now I see the screws. I reached in and loosened them a touch. I’m hoping I don’t need to fully remove them to insert the new fuse. Hopefully the only thing I damaged is the old fuse!

 

[Swamp Creature]

Woot woot! New 30 amp fuse (83 cents!) installed and everything works again! Stoked to get this sorted out and couldn’t have done it without your help!

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Woot woot! New 30 amp fuse (83 cents!) installed and everything works again! Stoked to get this sorted out and couldn’t have done it without your help!

Cool beans! Did you get spares? For all circuits?

 

[ski3pin]

Cool beans!

x2!