Solar panel adapter plug

You should have received an 18" or so pig tail with the mating connector to the solar plug in the camper. You will need to get some MC-4 connectors (one of each male and female for positive and negative) and attach these to the bare wire ends of this pig tail. Plug these into the matching connectors of the panel, plug the pig tail into the camper and then go down and make double sure you get the polarities correct before connecting the internal wire from the solar plug to your charge controller.

Alternatively, you can void the warranty on your panel by cutting off the MC 4 connectors on the panel and then butt-splice, wire nut or solder the bare wires together. Wrap them up to protect the joint from the elements and away you go. I have had some flakiness with my MC-4 connectors from vibration I suspect and am planning retrofitting along this path.

If you didn't receive the pig tail, then maybe a call to FWC will get one in your mailbox.

Alan
 
An alternative that some have done is to purchase an extension cable from Renogy With one male and one female end, cut it in half and connect the bare wires to the bare wires of the FWC supplied SAE pigtail. You can use water proof shrink tube butt connectors or some other type. This way you don't have to invest in tools or learn how to install the MC4 connectors if you haven't done that before.

Choose an extension cable length that allows you to position the panel where you want it.

Paul
 
First thing I did was hack those MC4 connectors off. Way too thick to poke through the camper.
 
I too could not find the mating RA SAE plug connector. I also wasn't excited about the installed roof SAE connector's ability to collect water around the two connector contacts.

So, I ditched the SAE connectorization and removed the existing roof flanged SAE jack connector. I installed an IP65 junction box in its place using the existing screw hole pattern. Heyco wiring glands were used for a waterproof wire entry into the junction box. The existing FWC roof wiring was long enough to be pulled out of the roof to terminate to the solar panel wiring in the junctuion box.

This junction box now supports two 100W Renogy flex solar panels. If we decide to add another panel to the roof, I will probably add another junction box to complete the wiring within the roof rather than routing the wiring on the ext roof surface.

The junction (or project) box measures 2.52Lx2.28Wx1.38H inch and is lower profile than the roof vents.
DSCF0441.jpgDSCF0446.jpgDSCF0445.jpg
 
SB_Surf said:
I too could not find the mating RA SAE plug connector. I also wasn't excited about the installed roof SAE connector's ability to collect water around the two connector contacts.

So, I ditched the SAE connectorization and removed the existing roof flanged SAE jack connector. I installed an IP65 junction box in its place using the existing screw hole pattern. Heyco wiring glands were used for a waterproof wire entry into the junction box. The existing FWC roof wiring was long enough to be pulled out of the roof to terminate to the solar panel wiring in the junctuion box.

This junction box now supports two 100W Renogy flex solar panels. If we decide to add another panel to the roof, I will probably add another junction box to complete the wiring within the roof rather than routing the wiring on the ext roof surface.

The junction (or project) box measures 2.52Lx2.28Wx1.38H inch and is lower profile than the roof vents.
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DSCF0441.jpg
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DSCF0446.jpg
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DSCF0445.jpg
Very nice job SB_Surf! Where can I find these parts?
 
I bought all at Amazon:
Junction box, Bud Industries #PN-1320
Wire gland, Heyco #M3444 with #3165 nut

I used chaulking, GE Supreme Silicon Extra Flex
 
SB_Surf said:
I too could not find the mating RA SAE plug connector. I also wasn't excited about the installed roof SAE connector's ability to collect water around the two connector contacts.
Here's a shot of my SAE connectors, I believe installed in July 2004 by FWC. They are quite corroded, and it's pretty obvious water has gotten into them. I've been thinking about what to do with them, I think SB_Surf hit the nail on the head here with his solution. If you have these connectors on your roof, I would at least remove the plugs and coat them with a silicon dielectric grease to keep the water out!

P1010750r.jpg

--
Pat
 
Has anyone used an SAE Y cable to add a second solar panel to the roof and use the existing roof plug? I have the FWC rooftop 100w and am thinking of adding another panel to the roof (probably Renology).
 
Charlie,

No reason why it shouldn't work. SB_Surf effectively did the same electrically with his combiner box. Harbor Freight sold a triple 15 watt solar panel kit with a three into one combiner. The key issue is that the voltages for the two panels be close in similar light conditions.
The issue is avoided when connecting two panels to the separate inputs on the Zamp controller.

You can verify it works in full sun by connecting one at a time and recording the Controller's amp reading for each panel alone, then plug both together and see that the controller reading for combined panels is close to the sum of the individual panel current reading. If it is, you should be fine.

Paul
 
deethe said:
removed the stock sae connector on the roof and replaced it with this right angle and mc4 connectors:http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/gallery/image/14120-right-angle-roof-solar-connector/http://www.mcmaster.com/#7008k77/=x0909t
i cut a epdm washer and sealed it to the roof between the connector
Thanks for the excellent suggestion. I am upgrading the solar panels on my Fwc and will use this roof pen upgrade in the process. The existing wires to the existing roof pen are a little tight, so I might make the hole in the roof bigger or make a ceiling access hole with cover plate to get to the wires and splice the 10 AWG extension wires on. I'm leaning toward the ceiling access hole, but somewhat apprehensive about messing with the ceiling.

RandyP
 

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