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Wander the west initial listing exclusive for a day!
Tons of pictures below I tried to picture everything and also note anything not in tip top. Its got some random scuffs/dents as you see but its quite functional (I like to think I added on intelligently to what this era offered as well).
Quick feature summary:
2000 FWC Hawk (59 .75” rear width, 48” between wheel wells, 80” long, 20.5” side rail height, 45” cabover height).
48” Extended cabover (with king size slideout)
Fantastic fan with 6 speed resistor conversion
Fluorescent lights
Forced air furnace with digital thermostat
3way (propane/ac/dc) fridge with relighter
Smev flush mount sink and stove
Shurflo electric faucet and pump
Both AC and DC-DC stage chargers
Opening cab pass through window
Awning
Screen door
Rear flood lights and amber porch light
Rear steps
Roof rack
Priced $7000
I’ve got some wire coming in the mail, if here in time I’ll toss in 20’ea of 10ga positive/negative to make your truck battery connection and either a 16 or 18ga (forget what I have on hand) wire to control the DC-DC charger. If the 30amp Anderson powerpole connectors are of interest for camper to truck connection I’ll install them on both the camper wires and wires I throw in as well. I’d make up a harness in wire loom for you but I don’t readily have any on hand unfortunately. Note: with the DC-DC charge remote wire connected to an ignition hot source on your truck a battery separator/isolating is not needed.
Onto the long winded details:
This is a 2000 (I was told 99 when I bought it but Stan ran my numbers and said it was a 2000) around 2003 the roof and sidewalls were replaced as the previous owner bent it or something. The good news is that means there is no oozing glue from the Velcro that this age camper would otherwise have and it also has the newer vinyl headliner rather than cloth which would also be in this age camper. There was also a gouge in the front wall during the previous owner's era which FWC patched up with a good caulk of sorts, its blocked by the front of the bed so I can't get a picture of it.
Here's how it fit my Dodge 2500 prior to my flatbed conversion (I pulled the rusty brackets off and cleaned them up/repainted but they're rusting a little again, unfortunately an issue with the jacks/brackets on this era FWC. A little unsightly but functional so I didn't change it.):
Current views on my rig (catalina awning):
I put about 3 coats of glidden oil based floor/porch on it a few years back that seem to be holding up well, including against a little rubbing when going on/off the truck (its a tight fit even on the dodge, not much wiggle room in the tailgate opening). I snagged that one piece of trim a couple times on my the tailgate catch and it ticked me off so I used some 3M 5200 I had around and stuck it on, I doubt it'll pull off again... All this is normally out of view in the bed of the truck.
The back: Steps, porch light and floods. I just noticed the other day the rear window seal was leaking, luckily to door is just aluminum and foam so nothing to rot in there, I pulled it out, cleaned it up and just reinstalled it with new caulk and shot some expanding foam in there also.
Jacks I got with it, rust issues with this era as mentioned but they get the job done.
Shot of the top w/ rack.
All pop'd up, this has both the exterior and interior storm flaps, again no oozing glue on the Velcro. I 303'd the vinyl a few months ago and its been closed up since.
Propane Hatch:
3way fridge, with a relighter mod detailed by PVSTOY. The relighter has gotten a little finicky, I think the probe got jostled out of position a tad, so that needs work. When working well it'll relight the pilot whenever it goes out and worked great (ie I drove a 10day 3000mi road trip with it running like that just fine).
Florescent lighting (two), fantastic fan (one) with a 6 speed conversion done, and the newer headliner material.
Its got a 4' cabover bed and I built a king sized slide out. I store the other two pieces behind the couch. When solo I'll leave one or both behind as I don't need a kingsize. The mattress's are done in sunbrella outdoor fabric.
Looking under the shelf in the lower right: This age camper does not have a power converter so I wired in a prosport 6amp unit, when you plug shore power into the camper the batteries start charging. Its a stage charger, 6amp isn't huge for rapid charging but over night will have most battery banks fully charged so that was good enough for me. Also there is a 7.5amp DC-DC stage charger which will boost/condition the connection from your truck. Again a little lower amp rate but it never caused me issue (it also makes up for voltage drop in wiring or if your alternator doesn't put out a high enough voltage). It has a remote signal wire that you can wire into an ignition hot source to control it.
SMEV flush mount units on a counter top I built. Note the fridge latch is poor, but some duct tape over it works. I never got around to reconfiguring it.
Smev stove has push button sparker built in. Shurflow faucet installed that controls the pumps speed on the valve open/close. Pivots up/down and the shaft rotates so it has good spray range to wash/fill what you want. Water tank is 12gal I believe.
I put in a battery operated digital thermostat for the furnace. Only issue with it is under a certain temp (mid 20s?) it reads "lo" and won't fire up the furnace. I put in a jumper switch (right above the propane line) which if switched on will fire up the furnace regardless until the camper has warmed and you can switch it off to let the thermostat take over. There is a hole drilled in the monitor panel, I had a digital voltmeter there but it burnt out. Also in photo: 110 breaker, fuses, and propane valve. There is a hole in that panel from an abandoned plumbing routing. The couple bolts you see are the shurflo nautilus pump mounts, its on an angle and will free drain back to the tank when the faucet is opened with the pump off. Makes it easy to get all the water out.
Wander the west initial listing exclusive for a day!
Tons of pictures below I tried to picture everything and also note anything not in tip top. Its got some random scuffs/dents as you see but its quite functional (I like to think I added on intelligently to what this era offered as well).
Quick feature summary:
2000 FWC Hawk (59 .75” rear width, 48” between wheel wells, 80” long, 20.5” side rail height, 45” cabover height).
48” Extended cabover (with king size slideout)
Fantastic fan with 6 speed resistor conversion
Fluorescent lights
Forced air furnace with digital thermostat
3way (propane/ac/dc) fridge with relighter
Smev flush mount sink and stove
Shurflo electric faucet and pump
Both AC and DC-DC stage chargers
Opening cab pass through window
Awning
Screen door
Rear flood lights and amber porch light
Rear steps
Roof rack
Priced $7000
I’ve got some wire coming in the mail, if here in time I’ll toss in 20’ea of 10ga positive/negative to make your truck battery connection and either a 16 or 18ga (forget what I have on hand) wire to control the DC-DC charger. If the 30amp Anderson powerpole connectors are of interest for camper to truck connection I’ll install them on both the camper wires and wires I throw in as well. I’d make up a harness in wire loom for you but I don’t readily have any on hand unfortunately. Note: with the DC-DC charge remote wire connected to an ignition hot source on your truck a battery separator/isolating is not needed.
Onto the long winded details:
This is a 2000 (I was told 99 when I bought it but Stan ran my numbers and said it was a 2000) around 2003 the roof and sidewalls were replaced as the previous owner bent it or something. The good news is that means there is no oozing glue from the Velcro that this age camper would otherwise have and it also has the newer vinyl headliner rather than cloth which would also be in this age camper. There was also a gouge in the front wall during the previous owner's era which FWC patched up with a good caulk of sorts, its blocked by the front of the bed so I can't get a picture of it.
Here's how it fit my Dodge 2500 prior to my flatbed conversion (I pulled the rusty brackets off and cleaned them up/repainted but they're rusting a little again, unfortunately an issue with the jacks/brackets on this era FWC. A little unsightly but functional so I didn't change it.):
Current views on my rig (catalina awning):
I put about 3 coats of glidden oil based floor/porch on it a few years back that seem to be holding up well, including against a little rubbing when going on/off the truck (its a tight fit even on the dodge, not much wiggle room in the tailgate opening). I snagged that one piece of trim a couple times on my the tailgate catch and it ticked me off so I used some 3M 5200 I had around and stuck it on, I doubt it'll pull off again...
All this is normally out of view in the bed of the truck.
The back: Steps, porch light and floods. I just noticed the other day the rear window seal was leaking, luckily to door is just aluminum and foam so nothing to rot in there, I pulled it out, cleaned it up and just reinstalled it with new caulk and shot some expanding foam in there also.
Jacks I got with it, rust issues with this era as mentioned but they get the job done.
Shot of the top w/ rack.
All pop'd up, this has both the exterior and interior storm flaps, again no oozing glue on the Velcro. I 303'd the vinyl a few months ago and its been closed up since.
Propane Hatch:
3way fridge, with a relighter mod detailed by PVSTOY. The relighter has gotten a little finicky, I think the probe got jostled out of position a tad, so that needs work. When working well it'll relight the pilot whenever it goes out and worked great (ie I drove a 10day 3000mi road trip with it running like that just fine).
Florescent lighting (two), fantastic fan (one) with a 6 speed conversion done, and the newer headliner material.
Its got a 4' cabover bed and I built a king sized slide out. I store the other two pieces behind the couch. When solo I'll leave one or both behind as I don't need a kingsize. The mattress's are done in sunbrella outdoor fabric.
Looking under the shelf in the lower right: This age camper does not have a power converter so I wired in a prosport 6amp unit, when you plug shore power into the camper the batteries start charging. Its a stage charger, 6amp isn't huge for rapid charging but over night will have most battery banks fully charged so that was good enough for me. Also there is a 7.5amp DC-DC stage charger which will boost/condition the connection from your truck. Again a little lower amp rate but it never caused me issue (it also makes up for voltage drop in wiring or if your alternator doesn't put out a high enough voltage). It has a remote signal wire that you can wire into an ignition hot source to control it.
SMEV flush mount units on a counter top I built. Note the fridge latch is poor, but some duct tape over it works. I never got around to reconfiguring it.
Smev stove has push button sparker built in. Shurflow faucet installed that controls the pumps speed on the valve open/close. Pivots up/down and the shaft rotates so it has good spray range to wash/fill what you want. Water tank is 12gal I believe.
I put in a battery operated digital thermostat for the furnace. Only issue with it is under a certain temp (mid 20s?) it reads "lo" and won't fire up the furnace. I put in a jumper switch (right above the propane line) which if switched on will fire up the furnace regardless until the camper has warmed and you can switch it off to let the thermostat take over. There is a hole drilled in the monitor panel, I had a digital voltmeter there but it burnt out. Also in photo: 110 breaker, fuses, and propane valve. There is a hole in that panel from an abandoned plumbing routing. The couple bolts you see are the shurflo nautilus pump mounts, its on an angle and will free drain back to the tank when the faucet is opened with the pump off. Makes it easy to get all the water out.
