Spare tire mount options with FWC

[DesertDave]

Pardon my ignorance—but do tires like this typically get shredded beyond normal temporary repair procedures (i.e. Plugging, sealants)?

I wouldn't say typically, unless you are doing racing or serious rock crawling. Sidewall cuts do happen due to rocks and other sharp objects, but tires are amazingly resilient.

I once drove half the Rubicon trail on a tire with five plugs in the sidewall to seal it. My fifth tire was torn up worse. Personal record was 13 plugs needed to seal a sidewall. I would never road drive on such a repair - this was just to get the FJ40 back to the trailer. I don't expect to get into such situations with my pickup and Grandby, but never go anywhere without a spare tire.
I picked this up on a highway work commute.

 

[Ace!]

Good idea PaulT. I've since purchased a stainless steel shaker (Stanley) that comes with two double-walled stainless steel cups that nest inside. I should be all set

 

[Durango1]

You mentioned putting a receiver hitch up front for a Warn winch when needed either front or back. (Good idea, I have the same set up with a 10,000# winch and synthetic rope).

So why not look at a front hitch tire carrier? While the tire would be hanging out front my guess is that would be better than the typically overloaded rear of the camper. And IF you need to use your winch just remove the tire rack while you get unstuck.

 

[Wallowa]

Sorta of what we plan...I recently installed a Curt front receiver hitch [very neat and functional item] on our Tundra to compliment the rear OEM receiver hitch, both 2".

The current plan is to purchase a Warn Zeon 8-S hitch already mounted to a plate which will attach to either front or rear hitch. The winch and plate are about 100lbs. No good place to "store" the winch so we plan to carry it in the front receiver with a cover to protect it.

Any wheel/tire mount in front will block some of the cooling air from the motor and trans radiators; the winch will have minimal effect on incoming cooling air but will provide for some impact protection for radiators. Expensive protection, but protection never the less.

Back to spare wheel. The optimal place for us to mount a spare is in the original location under the bed of the truck. Hopefully I can mount a full size wheel/tire there, even if it means modifying the mounting system. My axiom is usually: "1 = 0 and 2 =1" but I plan to only carry a single spare wheel/tire. And I am trying at all cost not to stick any weight aft of rear or forward of the front bumpers. Winch fits tight against bumper and low.

Trying to envision a clean and secure mounting system to the top of the truck bed rails for the high-lift jack and shovel. Due to the 17" side wall of the '05 Tundra AC we have open space under the Hawk and above the bed rails.

Tough part is not adding and adding to my GVW while keeping what I do add as close to the CG as possible. Space and weight are very big issues for us; but getting home is even more important .

 

[M1010 Mike]

I have been using the Wilco TireGate HitchGate model for a number of years now. Very well built, no rattling and no problems at all.

 

[CALIcamperdad]

I have been using the Wilco TireGate HitchGate model for a number of years now. Very well built, no rattling and no problems at all.

I have a Willco tiregate also. Picked it up in LA direct purchase saved about $180. I like it given I can easily put it on the truck when a trip is happening vs locally I leave it off the truck. The front reciever idea would just add options and pending your trip and gear you could mount it up front or on the tail end. It has a really beefy compression mount system which locks it tight no wobble, then the standard compression pin to retain it. It aint going no place, it also retains a rated reciever so you still have the ability to use a trailer or step etc. For the price there really isnt anything else like it. Trust me I looked for several months tryingbto find an affordable way to get my 34inch spare out of my Landcruiser. Sold the LC and kept the hitchgate for my new SUV. Or future truck;-)

I used simple sheet metal self tapping screws to hold the license plate on the tire carrier. They also have add on items like fuel jug holder, jack holder etc. But I wonder about that extra weight hung off the back so didnt bother with that stuff.

 

[elmo_4_vt]

With a flat bed, it was harder to figure out a location for my over-sized tire because I wouldn't be able to let it hang off the back. I've decided on putting it in front of my camper in a storage box. Here is the drawing I used to get quotes and purchase from AlumLine:

 

[cherbinger@frontiernet.net]

I went with some Aluminess products. Front and rear bumpers with dual rear boxes. Lots of extra storage for 2000 watt gen, tools,etc. They also offer rear bumper with spare tire mount and a front bumper spare tire mount.

 

[BellaFWC]

Old tread I know, I'll add my Tiregate pics here for anyone searching. Tiregate VT (newest Ver) on a Superduty Shortbed/Hawk FWC.

 

[eyemgh]

Sorta of what we plan...I recently installed a Curt front receiver hitch [very neat and functional item] on our Tundra to compliment the rear OEM receiver hitch, both 2".

The current plan is to purchase a Warn Zeon 8-S hitch already mounted to a plate which will attach to either front or rear hitch. The winch and plate are about 100lbs. No good place to "store" the winch so we plan to carry it in the front receiver with a cover to protect it.

Any wheel/tire mount in front will block some of the cooling air from the motor and trans radiators; the winch will have minimal effect on incoming cooling air but will provide for some impact protection for radiators. Expensive protection, but protection never the less.

Back to spare wheel. The optimal place for us to mount a spare is in the original location under the bed of the truck. Hopefully I can mount a full size wheel/tire there, even if it means modifying the mounting system. My axiom is usually: "1 = 0 and 2 =1" but I plan to only carry a single spare wheel/tire. And I am trying at all cost not to stick any weight aft of rear or forward of the front bumpers. Winch fits tight against bumper and low.

Trying to envision a clean and secure mounting system to the top of the truck bed rails for the high-lift jack and shovel. Due to the 17" side wall of the '05 Tundra AC we have open space under the Hawk and above the bed rails.

Tough part is not adding and adding to my GVW while keeping what I do add as close to the CG as possible. Space and weight are very big issues for us; but getting home is even more important .

We installed a front Curt receiver and use the Curt mount @Durango1 referenced the rare times when we want two spares (we can fit a full size in the original under mount). That said, if we’re loaded to the gills with both spares, 4 wheel chains, and extra water like we’d do for a winter trip into DVNP, it does put us over the GVWR. With Helwigs it isn’t squatty at all and it handles well. We are always well below the axle ratings, far below the tire ratings and it’s balanced. Still I struggle with whether or not the second spare is worth the 150 lbs. the whole contraption costs.

 

[Wallowa]

We installed a front Curt receiver and use the Curt mount @Durango1 referenced the rare times when we want two spares (we can fit a full size in the original under mount). That said, if we’re loaded to the gills with both spares, 4 wheel chains, and extra water like we’d do for a winter trip into DVNP, it does put us over the GVWR. With Helwigs it isn’t squatty at all and it handles well. We are always well below the axle ratings, far below the tire ratings and it’s balanced. Still I struggle with whether or not the second spare is worth the 150 lbs. the whole contraption costs.

In final version we have the winch with plate for fore or aft use...Our Hellwig rear bar really does help....went with pizza cutter sized Cooper AT3 E rated tires...firestone air bags...recently full Li system; along with second Zamp panel [now a 160 & 170w]...I built a thin roof rack for 'permanent' stuff, still with 1.5" clearance beneath Hawk overhang..added insulation on outside of Hawk on overhang and vertical walls above bed rail...all good! I dropped the high-lift carry and added one set of chains.

GVWR....when has anyone documented a vehicle failure or accident caused by exceeding the GVWR when carrying a FWC? Lots of talk but I have yet to see actual documentation; forget the smoke concerning insurance and LEO issues, more chatter...sure add any weight and stopping distance increases, but keep the CG low and centered and drive on!

Phil