Stuck & Un-stuck -- Safely

My Kit

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+ 2 - 3/4" x 12 x 12 7 - ply SYP pads
+ 1 D - handle spade
+ 1 Maasdam "3 ton" power pull (3/16 cable)
+ 16' X 3/8" Grade 70 chain
+ 1 12 - ton hydraulic jack
+ 48" hi - lift

Everything except the plywood and shovel are leftovers from my dairy farming / woodsman days. Back then, I didn't think much about how dangerous the situation was -- we just did what we "had to" to make a buck.

Not shown are my 12V air compressor and tire deflators.

Up until this recent discussion I thought I was "OK", since I've used the winch, chain, hi-lift on tractors and bigger trucks.

Wishful thinking?

What else should I carry (do you think)?
 
I suggest only using slings/straps/chains rated with a "Working Load Limit" and not a "Rated Capacity." The Working Load Limit is what the manufacturer has rated a strap, etc. to be able to safely withstand. The Rated Capacity is also known as the Breaking Capacity - something I don't want to test. I think all new straps, clevises, etc. are rated with their WLL.

When using devices with hooks (i.e. winches and come-a-longs) the hooks should be "Positive Locking Hooks" which have some kind of gate to prevent a strap from falling off the hook. Also, the load on a hook should be applied to the crook of the hook (the bottom of the U-shape of the hook), and not the point of the hook, which may be 1/5th as stong as the crook of the hook. When a strap or chain is properly attached to a hook with a Positive Lock it is not possible to mistakenly put the load on the point of the hook.

When pulling at an angle to the direction the stuck vehicle will move, the actual load on the strap tow rigging will increase significantly. For example, if the stuck vehicle needs to move north, and the pulling point is located 45 degrees off of north, say north-west, then the force applied to the tow strap and all the tow points will be about 1.5 times the force needed to move the vehicle.

Finally, avoid using a trailer hitch ball as a location for pulling because the tow strap can easily slip up and off the trailer hitch.
 
Throw in a can of WD-40, CRC, or your favorite flavor of spray on lube in your stuff box. The pins on Hi-Lifts tend to get really dry regardless of how they're stored unless they're used real regularly. When dry they tend not to cycle correctly. A little lube works wonders on them. In a pinch I've even used water and snow on the pin mechanism. Made it work just fine.

If you don't have one get one, they really are a handy thing. Like a lot of time honored technology there is an art to using one, so if you're not familiar with one there are probably a dozen examples of how to use one, both good and bad on YouTube. Keep in mind they were designed to do a job, not be fool proof.

Happy un-stucking!!!...
 
To keep our tree hugger friends happy remember to use a tree-saver strap when using a tree as a winch anchor point.
 
"Static" and "Dynamic" may not be effective communicators, but they are the correct terms. In this application the difference is whether there is a difference in speed between the two vehicles. If you're towing then it's a "Static" pull. If you're using Inertia to unstuck someone then it's a "Dynamic" pull.

Hooks on straps are bad, bad, bad. Quality straps, of either type, do not have hooks on them. Use quality shackles for all rigging connections.
To avoid any confusion I think that the strap should be the dynamic unsticker, and a heavy rope or line should be the towing device. Then it's easy to ID which is which, whether in a "time-valued" situation or not. For years my tow line was a 30' double eyelet spliced 5/8" polypro mooring line, complete with old fire hose abrasion protection sleeves from it's previous life as a mooring line from an Islander 41. I recycled it when I sold the 'glass buggy as I didn't trust it with heavier rigs.

In a cable come-along there really doesn't seem to be anything between the Black Rat and the cheapie HF/Northern Tool units. If you happen to know someone in the CSU, Chico ME & Mfg College you might get them to make you a second Hoist/Winch during their ITEC 51 class. It's what I use.

I took apart my 60" HiLift and "blue-printed" it, then applied a dry film lube. Made it work better, but it's still wonky. I try to use motorcycle aerosol chain wax on such things since it doesn't gather grit and dirt.

Shepard's "Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide" has 14 pages of text and pictures just on this topic. There has been a lot written on the topic, but I would be wary of any magazine articles until cross-checked with other sources.
 
Finally, avoid using a trailer hitch ball as a location for pulling because the tow strap can easily slip up and off the trailer hitch.


And/or rip the ball off and create a perfect projectile to kill someone.

I use straps and big shackles almost exclusively. I avoid chains unless I need to create an anchor point on a vehicle to hook onto. And I avoid using my winch on another vehicle unless it is the last option.

Getting unstuck safely is one time where over thinking it, over engineering it, over preparing can really pay off. STOP, THINK, THINK, THINK, then act. Unless your vehicle is actively rolling over or sinking in quicksand, washing away in a river - taking 10 more minutes to do it safely usually isn't a big deal.
 
"Static" and "Dynamic" may not be effective communicators, but they are the correct terms.

I agree and I agree. I know what these terms mean. You are giving advice in a situation where someone will be doing an activity that could put their life at risk, do you feel comfortable using correct terms that may not be effective communicators?

In this application the difference is whether there is a difference in speed between the two vehicles. If you're towing then it's a "Static" pull. If you're using Inertia to unstuck someone then it's a "Dynamic" pull.

I like what you do here, we should expand it and include common vernacular:

Towing: static
Snatching: dynamic
Winching: static
Hoisting: static

For static use rigging that does not stretch (store energy) like chain or synthetic winch cable. For snatching use a strap that is design for it. Wire rope has no use anymore in these applications (although I concur that it is more abrasion resistant).

Use quality shackles for all rigging connections.
Doggone it. In my previous post I said clevis and I meant shackle. I totally agree with this. I don't even have a hook on my ATV winch.
 
I know what these terms mean. You are giving advice in a situation where someone will be doing an activity that could put their life at risk, do you feel comfortable using correct terms that may not be effective communicators?

These really aren't unusual words or technical jargon, are they?: Dynamic means "changing" and static means "not changing" in general English usage (in this case, applied to force or speed) -- they're not words specific to vehicle recovery/tools. What could be more 'effective communication' than using the correct words correctly?

Regarding "put their life at risk": I believe that people should take personal responsibility for their own safety.
It will be a said day for WTW if we have to fear that someone will misunderstand what we post and end up claiming, "Well, a guy on a forum told me to do it this way, and then it broke and my baby got hurt...and it's not my fault!"

Please, let's not go there.
 
Wow, okay...

These really aren't unusual words or technical jargon, are they?

They are very specific.

Dynamic means "changing" and static means "not changing" in general English usage (in this case, applied to force or speed) -- they're not words specific to vehicle recovery/tools.

But what is changing? We can't say force or speed because these change in the towing scenario. The tow vehicle applies force to the towed vehicle to affect its speed. Force and speed changed yet it is a static pull.

It comes to frame of reference and not everyone sees this.

What could be more 'effective communication' than using the correct words correctly?
Any semantic that expresses an idea completely. Incorrect words used incorrectly can be effective communication.

Regarding "put their life at risk": ...
Please, let's not go there.


I could give a rats azz about what someone would claim. I would die inside if I knew someone got hurt performing an activity I describe exactly and precisely with the correct words used correctly but was misunderstood.
 
It will be a said day for WTW if we have to fear that someone will misunderstand what we post."

If I had a nickle for every time .........
 
"Static" and "Dynamic" are also terms used to describe climbing/caving ropes.

I think we're applying the same terminology here. A static rope or strap is not designed to stretch. Dynamic ropes or straps use their stretch to help 'snatch' a stuck rig or cushion a climber taking a fall :eek:
 
JohnF has a point, the frame of reference is crucial when thinking about static vs. dynamic. It is why I went on to say that if there is no difference in speed between the towing vehicle and the towed vehicle then even though both are moving relative to the Earth it is a static situation.

Maybe put better: if both ends of the strap/rope are moving at the same speed then it is static. If the two ends are moving at different speeds, as would be the case when using inertia to snatch a stuck vehicle, then it is a dynamic situation.

We could delve into the nuances of how static pulls have dynamic fractions and how dynamic pulls have static fractions, but aside from us Engineer types who really cares? The point is that there be a general distinction between the two types of pulls and that that distinction be understood by the readers. If there are readers who are interested in learning more about those nuances that is up to them. The general reader wants to know what to use when and generally why. With that info a reasonably logical person can make deductions that apply to their particular instance. I'm reminded of the two ways that Geometry is taught. Either memorize 47,000 Identities and when each applies; Or memorize the core principles and learn how to arrive at the tool needed for the situation. Which makes better users of Geometry? Rote memorization or an actual understanding of the principles?
 
(Returning to the material of the OP)

I realized it would be difficult to drag myself out of a jam, unless there was a handy attachment point within twenty feet or so of my truck (and also located in the direction of escape). So, I began thinking about what might be most useful otherwise, like a hank of flat rope...

3312-yellow-polyester-web-2-x-300-6k-cargo-webbing_1_375.jpg

Yellow Polyester Web - 2" x 300' 6K Cargo Webbing
 
I am getting a little pedantic here so skip this or PM me nastygrams if this bothers you. Yes, I admit it but I keep coming to that part of the subtitle that says "without getting hurt" and I agree with ntsqd that understanding the basics of what is happening is important beyond the language we choose.

"Static" and "Dynamic" are also terms used to describe climbing/caving ropes.


Right, we are describing our operations by the type of rigging used. When we say static/dynamic pull we mean a pull with a static/dynamic rigging.

... The point is that there be a general distinction between the two types of pulls and that that distinction be understood by the readers. ... The general reader wants to know what to use when and generally why. ... an actual understanding of the principles?


Exactly. Let's examine the "why" (and we will ignore small fractions):

A static rigging is meant to not stretch and by virtue will not store energy (low values of potential energy).
A dynamic rigging is meant to stretch either to cushion shock or store energy but does store energy (high values of potential energy).

So, concentrating on only vehicle recovery methods:

The "snatch" method of recovery uses a dynamic rigging to increase force applied by the tow vehicle to the stuck vehicle by capturing kinetic energy from a moving tow vehicle. It requires a dynamic rigging.

None of the other methods require a dynamic rigging. (towing with small resistance from the towed vehicle could use a dynamic rigging to cushion the speed variance between vehicles.)

Potential energy in rigging can hurt/kill you if the operation fails due to some failure in the rigging. If your body is going to be next to the rigging then make sure it is static rigging. it is common in winching with steel rope to put blankets on the line to "take" the released energy. Do this if your choice is steel rope; it could save a hurt/death.

If the rigging is dynamic, don't you or anyone else be near it.

Back in my last post I included hoisting because I have seen it used in vehicle recovery.
 
And/or rip the ball off and create a perfect projectile to kill someone.

Excellent point.

I’m sorry if this reads as “(Un)Stuck 101,” because I'm sure I'm not the only one to figure this stuff out, but following are a few lessons I’ve learned the hard way, and I haven’t read else ware in this thread.

Regarding becoming unstuck:

Important #1: If you start spinning wheels and you aren’t going anywhere, STOP. You’ll only make the situation worse by digging holes with the spinning wheel(s).

Important #2: If you are on a hill, however slight, try unsticking yourself by going downhill.

I don’t know how many people I have pulled out because they got stuck a little, and then exacerbated their situation by spinning wheels, and/or by spinning their wheels while trying to go uphill.

Sometimes rocking the vehicle back and forth will help. Give it just enough gas to move it forward without spinning, then come back a little and try again. Hopefully with each attempt you’ll move forward a little more.

Air down your tires. If you don’t have a way to air them up again after getting unstuck, then you should travel at a slow, conservative speed until you can return them to the proper PSI.

On a 4X4 vehicle with open differentials, if you are spinning one wheel, then you are also spinning the wheel on the opposite corner. That is, if the left front wheel is spinning, then the right rear is also spinning. There are a few methods which may help.

1) Put some traction aids under one or both of the spinning wheels – sand ladders, mattraxx, rocks, logs, timber, etc. You may have to dig some of the muck out from under the wheel(s) in order to get things like rocks and logs under the wheel(s). Sand ladders and mattraxx require more digging to properly place them, but it’s often well worth it in the long run.

2) Set your parking brake slightly (or completely). This will direct some (or all) of the torque that was going to the wheel that was slipping on the rear axle, to the wheel that was not slipping on the front axle. Obviously, this is a bit of a balancing act because you are trying to stop some wheels from turning, while at the same time, turning all wheels.

If you have to winch or get a pull from another vehicle you may find that the wheels of your vehicle don’t roll up and over whatever material you’re stuck in, and may act like a bulldozer by pilling up debris in front of your tires, thus making the winch or pull more difficult. Watch all of your wheels, and if necessary, stop and remove any bulldozed debris.

One final note on parking brakes: If I have to back down a steep road, I set my parking brake a few notches. I do this because the normal brake biasing applies more braking force to the front brakes, which when backing downhill, may cause the front brakes to lockup while the rear brakes are providing little braking force. This in turn may cause my front wheels skid, slip and slide, while my back wheels are just coasting along, and not helping me to stop. By applying the parking brake a few notches, I find that I get better control while backing down a steep hill.
 
A not too great picture and story about flying metal objects on the end of a strap. Even though their rigging sounds like it was correct, the lack of solid attachment points caused this mishap.
http://www.southernhighrollers.com/tips/articles/a_near_miss_from.htm
 

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