Switching Solar Off

[Desert Scruff]

Is there a reason FWC doesn't install a switch/circuit breaker so the solar panel can be disconnected from the camper electrical system? I've been covering the solar panel with cardboard to shut it down so I can work on the system.

Secondly, I'm on the verge of installing a second panel on the roof (a 2016 Fleet) and of course the panels all come with MC4 plugs and FWC installs the Zamp panel with a SAE plug. What's the easiest way around this plug incompatibility?

I'll be wiring the panels in parallel. Is there a reason that the two grounds and two positives can't be combined on the roof, as long as I can figure out how to do it with the two connections waterproof, and FWC's SAE plug run to the two connections?

And, as others have said, I certainly appreciate the help and information that this forum provides. Thanks.

 

[PaulT]

This should solve your problem.
https://www.renogy.com/renogy-mc4-to-sae-adaptor/
https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-MC4-to-SAE-Adaptor/dp/B01N1TALFY

Paul

 

[Desert Scruff]

Thanks, Paul. I don't know if it makes any difference but that is 12 gauge wire instead of 10 gauge. I do see such a connector from Chafon that is 10 guage, In any case, what do I do with two SAE plugs and one place to plug in?

 

[Vic Harder]

10 or 12 doesn't matter in this application. Hook the two panels together using MC4 connectors like the ones linked below, and then use the item Paul linked to above to connect to the existing roof SAE connector.

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-solar-mc4-branch-connectors-mmf-ffm-pair/

 

[Desert Scruff]

OK, Vic, I got that. I would then have to switch the Zamp panel over to a MC4 connector . Putting the two grounds in one branch connector and two positives in the other branch connector, then the MC4-to-SAE connector gives me two panels in parallel.

Thanks, Vic and Paul.

How about the issue of being able to disconnect the panels from the camper electrical system? A 30 amp breaker/switch just before the controller, or is there no need for this?

 

[Vic Harder]

Having a disconnect can be handy, but a breaker is not necessary. The idea of a breaker is to protect the wire carrying the power, right? So ideally that breaker should be on the roof, close to the source of the power. Nobody does this. That said, no harm in adding a disconnect near the batteries f that makes you feel better.

 

[ckent323]

I have read that in the event one needs to disconnect panels and then reconnect them a circuit breaker makes things safer for the Solar Controller.

The (usual) correct way to disconnect battery power for the panels+charge controller...
Turn off (breaker or switch) the solar array first,
then turn off the breaker from the + charger output to the + battery bank bus.

To reconnect (reverse the order),
turn on + to charge controller first (to the battery bank)
then turn on the + to the solar array.

Allegedly, some charge controllers "get confused" (damage to charge controller is possible in some rare cases) if you connect the solar panels (under sun) before you connect the battery bank.

I am not certain about this but I have read it on a couple of vendor sites now.

 

[ntsqd]

I've found that a heavy blanket "disconnects" our solar panel.

 

[Chrish]

It's been awhile since I wired my 5k watt home solar electric system, but typically panels wired in parallel go to what's known as a combiner box which contains the DC rated Breakers or fuses and then on to the charge controller.

It's important to use DC rated Breakers because DC current can struck an arc and the breaker has to be able to break any arc that forms.

My home system also has a DC rated breaker between the batt and charge controller.

Seems like a camper solar system should also follow the same wiring safety measures as a home system.

At least that's how I remember it.