The New Steed

Marc

Fire Proof
Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
1,121
Location
South Shores California
Here are a couple pics of the new to me Dodge in anticipation for the next project. :unsure:
 

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looking good Marc. I have the same tires and when tall and skinny as well. I just love the way they run and they seem to be wearing pretty good.

looking forward to hearing about your next project,

Cort
 
Well I drove them in some thunderstorms in Montana and Idaho this summer and I have been driving them in the rain for the last few weeks and they seem fine. I had the camper on so that helps. They wander more than an AT tread does on dry pavement but so far they seem to hydroplane less in standing water....I am assuming this is due to the open lug design?? I think like everything these type of tires are a trade off....I tend to spend a lot time on wet dirt roads so they work great for me....I am absolutely amazed at the grip these tires have off road. I have put about 3,000 mi on them in the dirt and they just stay connected. I went tall and skinny as far as a Tacoma goes and I am very happy with the way they air down. My next test is going to see how they do at cutting track in fresh snow...going to get a tree in the next few weeks.

Cort
 
Thanks Cort. I don't tend to get into it as much these days so I'm slightly leaning towards the tread on these being overkill for me but I find the fact they are available in a 255 width appealing. I had E rated BFG AT K/O's on my 1500 I just traded and I really liked those, esp. cause on my 20" rims I could get a 34" tire at a reasonable width. On the 17s the 2500 I got has I'd have to go to a 285 width to get a 33" tire which isn't horrible but it'd be nicer to run a little more narrow.
 
I am a huge fan of narrow and tall. For most of what we do out there that's the way to go.....well at least in my opinion. I have heard some folks talk about how tall narrow tires don't air down well but that's just not the case from what I have seen. for most common tires....you get more increase in contact patch through longitudinal spreading and not lateral spreading. I do have to say though that a tall narrow tire is far less environmentally friendly to trails since they cut down through the fluff in order to get to good hard ground.

Cort
 
That's a great looking rig! I ran tall and skinnies for a lot of years and really liked them, and that's a great tire choice.
 
Even on my Jeep I've gone tall and skinny. 9:50-33 15s. Depends on usage but I agree, for most of us its the way to go.
 
Marc, did you look into the revised T linkage steering upgrade at all? I'm giving that some consideration because it should hold its alignment regardless of the suspension (whether that's messing around with coil height, sagging suspension, suspension travel, etc.) and would just need the link to the pitman arm adjusted to recenter the steering wheel. Plus it would put fresh tie rod ends all around on the front end.
 
Marc, did you look into the revised T linkage steering upgrade at all? I'm giving that some consideration because it should hold its alignment regardless of the suspension (whether that's messing around with coil height, sagging suspension, suspension travel, etc.) and would just need the link to the pitman arm adjusted to recenter the steering wheel. Plus it would put fresh tie rod ends all around on the front end.


Pods, didn't check that out. Sounds like an alternative. Guess it depends on what your after.

marc
 
Pods, didn't check that out. Sounds like an alternative. Guess it depends on what your after.

marc


Not really an alternate just another piece of the puzzle. :LOL:

(Note: I did TOO much reading on this stuff this weekend :oops: ).
Main players on the front end are springs, trac bar, sway bar and end links, steering linkage, shocks & stablizer, control arms.

You've previous identified the trac bar as an issue (its actually shitty bushings rather than the bar itself). You swapped coils and shocks as well as extended end links for the lift, for a 2" lift control arms should be fine unless a bushing has worn out.

In my case with the hemi (different spring rates than the diesel) I'm not sure if there is as much issue with the stock coils but I'm considering getting some power wagon coils which are softer than stock coils, they are 2" lift over stock which would keep the height about where it is now. The trac bar, links, and shocks are on my candidate list.

Anyways steering linkage is the last part of the puzzle, prior to mid 2008 has "Y" linkage and after that is "T" linkage, see picture below. The T linkage should hold alignment during suspension movement, the Y linkage the toe in/out can move as the suspension goes up/down.
Part numbers if you're interested:
52122362AG T Type Linkage
6505623AA Tie Rod Nuts X 3
68039930AA Pitman Arm If Built Before March 1st 2008
Also need a steering stabilizer, I don't have the number handy for the factory one since I'd consider an aftermarket one.
EDIT: I think the right blisten 5100 to use is Part Number: 33-170794 (Old Part Number: F4-BE5-H079-H0).

030920tie20rod20upgrade.jpg
 
Not really an alternate just another piece of the puzzle. :LOL:

(Note: I did TOO much reading on this stuff this weekend :oops: ).
Main players on the front end are springs, trac bar, sway bar and end links, steering linkage, shocks & stablizer, control arms.

You've previous identified the trac bar as an issue (its actually shitty bushings rather than the bar itself). You swapped coils and shocks as well as extended end links for the lift, for a 2" lift control arms should be fine unless a bushing has worn out.

In my case with the hemi (different spring rates than the diesel) I'm not sure if there is as much issue with the stock coils but I'm considering getting some power wagon coils which are softer than stock coils, they are 2" lift over stock which would keep the height about where it is now. The trac bar, links, and shocks are on my candidate list.

Anyways steering linkage is the last part of the puzzle, prior to mid 2008 has "Y" linkage and after that is "T" linkage, see picture below. The T linkage should hold alignment during suspension movement, the Y linkage the toe in/out can move as the suspension goes up/down.
Part numbers if you're interested:
52122362AG T Type Linkage
6505623AA Tie Rod Nuts X 3
68039930AA Pitman Arm If Built Before March 1st 2008
Also need a steering stabilizer, I don't have the number handy for the factory one since I'd consider an aftermarket one.

030920tie20rod20upgrade.jpg



I JUST did this upgrade on my new to me 2003 2500. I installed it a week ago and just had it aligned a few days ago. WOW. Its amazing. My old 'y' steering wasn't too bad but I figured since the truck was new to me, i'd just take the hit and spend a few bucks up front. The steering is so much tighter and responsive. I want to say that the ride is a little less choppy too. I'm not sure how to describe it but I think having the two front wheels pretty much locked together takes away the little bumps and smooths things out - as much as a dodge can get mind you!!! You can do this swap in your driveway and they take it for an alignment.

I got a new pitman arm, steering stabilizer too. I have read you can get away with the older stabilizer but it was only $100 so I got it too. I just wanted to keep it all the same and not mix vintages and styles of steering components.
 
I got a new pitman arm, steering stabilizer too. I have read you can get away with the older stabilizer but it was only $100 so I got it too. I just wanted to keep it all the same and not mix vintages and styles of steering components.


Factory dampener or aftermarket? I think this is the right blisten 5100 http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/33-170794 for about the same price as the factory unit. There is the Carli blisten 7100 kit if you want that, probably not really needed for our no to low lift rigs: http://www.thecarlisuspension.com/dodge-ram/components/lower7100stabilizer.html
 
Factory dampener or aftermarket? I think this is the right blisten 5100 http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/33-170794 for about the same price as the factory unit. There is the Carli blisten 7100 kit if you want that, probably not really needed for our no to low lift rigs: http://www.thecarlisuspension.com/dodge-ram/components/lower7100stabilizer.html


I went with factory. It was in a packaged kit for a slight discount. Changing the stabilizer at a later point would be super easy if needed. I figure I can get at least 3-4 years out of the stock one. I like it for now but I'm ignorant to the likely better quality aftermarket stabilizer. It was night and day with the new steering set-up as is!!
 
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