Thermostat cycling too often!

[Kokopelli]

Just got back from our first weekend in the camper with temps in the low 20's. I had installed the hunter digital therostat per Stans post. Set it at 58. Woke up very hot and the reading said 62 and it had "reset" the temp to 64. Reset to 50 and back to bed. Woke up later thinking we were in the desert in the summer - temp of 64 and it had "reset" to 68. Did I set something up wrong, get a bad unit, or what? It was driving me crazy.

Luckily I had brought the old suburban thermostat. So in the middle of the night I changed it out so we could stay cool enough. It worked well but the temp swing seemed to much that night with it getting warm up top before shutting off even set at the lowest level. Moved the dial in the thermostat to a shorter span and it cycled perhaps more freq, but not as hot before shutoff. Definitely didn't run too much, but then we have the arctic pac.

What do you all do to limit that heat buildup in the top bunk before the unit shuts off? Crack just the windows up top and front, crack the fan, both? It almost get too "stuffy" feeling just before the heater shuts off even set at the lowest setting.

Also did I remember someone mentioning a way to reset the low on the suburbans to 45 from 50? Couldn't find anything in the owners manual.

Thanks!

 

[masterplumber]

FWIW..my heater works great and will run you out of the camper of you set it above 65. (We bought the Arctic Pac but have yet to use it)

The real issue I see here isn't whether the FWC is a 4 season camper...it's whether or not people want to hear the stock heater run long enough/often enough to do it's job.

So...has anybody looked into the Wiersbo radiant floor heat option?

Actually yes - being an old wet head. I haven't done it due to cost but here's what I have in mind: use an Esper Hydronic heater tied directly into my rear diesel tank & run the lines into a floor grid of tubing, I'd use one of the track panels that reflect the heat upward, The entire floor pack would have to be insulated as at least on mine there is no insulation until you reach the upper walls, then of course you have to build a subfloor over the tubing but it & the floor covering would need to be of the lowest R value possible to help spead up the heat transfer, Then to make the camper still removable I'd connect it in one of the cavities in front of the wheel wells using the proper size hydraulic quick connects - these are like air chucks so they have a shut off built in which limits antifreeze loss.

The 2 issues I haven't researched yet are whether the Esper built in pump has enough flow for that much tubing & whether there is enough floor space to actually produce enough BTUs to heat the volume in the camper.

Doug

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

a mystery for me

mine is working great

but I went ahead and deleted the original thread

I don't want to promote it, if it is not working for people with the FWC's



sorry



.