tie down strap versus turnbuckle

[4byr]

I am new to the site and tried to search for the topic of turnbuckles and tiedowns and see that there are many that have broken attach points and that turnbuckles fall or come off and I want to see who has used straps versus turnbuckles at attach points. If anyone has some pictures of such that would be great. I recently bought my Hawk and the turnbuckles have all but fallen off of the rings. I don't like the fact that they can loosen and fall off altogether so I have used a piece of chain and d ring clips with a ubolt to attach the camper at the front points. Yes it is not as tight as a tightened turnbuckle but vibration will loosen a turnbuckle certainly not my chain and marine u bolt. I was thinking of mounting a 10k lb shortened snatch strap to the camper base where the present eyelet is with say a piece of u channel and fasten the snatch strap to the truck bed eyelet. I like this option as it is much easier to manipulate. I am not sure if I have enough room for the strap mechanism.

Any thoughts on this? Anyone have pictures of their installation or ideas where we can offer options to others? Forums such as this are amazing in that there are so many differing opinions. Let's stay on point and see if we can figure out an easy way to attach the camper to the truck using a strap versus a turnbuckle that can fall off. I was thinking strap with a locking clip like those of a boat tie down strap?

Thanks,

 

[craig333]

Its been on mind to add a strap as a last resort mechanism should everything else fail. Unfortunately I forgot the last time I had the camper off.

 

[RicoV]

I'm fairly positive there was a good thread on this very subject within the last year or so, but my WTW search just now couldn't exhume it. Maybe someone else can locate?
Rico

 

[ntsqd]

There was such a thread. I wouldn't want the give of the strap, I want the camper to move with the bed. Inertia can magnify the loads exponentially. The turnbuckles working loose is a common topic, should be easy to turn up lots of threads on that. Simple fix is to install a jam nut on the RH threaded hook. I used safety wire, but I also used turnbuckles with clevis' on both ends so that made it work.

 

[4byr]

With all of the brains in this world we have yet to figure out how to get away from the simple fact that it is a pain in the arse to use these turnbuckles? It seems like such a flintstone approach! using a jam nut? Don't we all want to just put this camper on, attach the camper to the truck and have some fun without having to worry that the camper will float and move on the bed and the turnbuckle will loosten and fall off?
Lets really put the engineering degrees into this simple issue. I am thinking of a constant spring type of load binder or even a ratchet strap of some sort with constant load pull or even a small/short ratchet binder type mechanism that will take this turnbuckle to the garbage. I know the kiss method is sometimes best but come on. There are so many incredible brains out there and I am sure there is a device already in place on some piece of equipment or farm implement that is easy and adjustable for our application that would revolutionize our industry. How many campers are out there in the world and their owners are engineers in manufacturing technologies... I know this is a challenge but, really? a turnbuckle? What a pain in the butt.

 

[ntsqd]

Just need to think outside of the norm to find a possible solution. Set your eyebolts/nuts at the correct height and use something like these: http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Flatbed-Trailer-Products/Chain-Binders/Lever-Binder-5-16-x-3-8

 

[Bill D]

With all of the brains in this world we have yet to figure out how to get away from the simple fact that it is a pain in the arse to use these turnbuckles? It seems like such a flintstone approach! using a jam nut? Don't we all want to just put this camper on, attach the camper to the truck and have some fun without having to worry that the camper will float and move on the bed and the turnbuckle will loosten and fall off?
Lets really put the engineering degrees into this simple issue. I am thinking of a constant spring type of load binder or even a ratchet strap of some sort with constant load pull or even a small/short ratchet binder type mechanism that will take this turnbuckle to the garbage. I know the kiss method is sometimes best but come on. There are so many incredible brains out there and I am sure there is a device already in place on some piece of equipment or farm implement that is easy and adjustable for our application that would revolutionize our industry. How many campers are out there in the world and their owners are engineers in manufacturing technologies... I know this is a challenge but, really? a turnbuckle? What a pain in the butt.

It only takes me about 5 minutes to install all 4 turnbuckles. To aid in quick installation I mark where they go. DF, DR, PF, PR and which end is the top and the bottom so I know which way to turn them to tighten them. I don't need to turn them more than a few turns to get them hand tight because I marked them and only loosened them enough to remove them the last time I took them off. I haven't had to use a "jam nut", they seem to stay torqued well enough for me.

I'm quite satisfied with the engineering that makes up a turnbuckle. In fact, i feel simplicity is the best part of their design. Sorry if you don't feel that way. Happy engineering, I hope you come up with something great!

 

[4byr]

The handle may be too long on this type of load binder for the area between the wheel wells and could be shortened but the bigger problem is the load strength of the smaller unit as shown is only 300 or so pounds. A ratcheting type with a shorter handle may work. I was thinking of shortening the handle and maybe turning down the eyelet or receiver to shorten its length and not having an effect on capacity. The next thought is a small boat winch using stranded wire going from truck mounting eye to camper mounting eye as a continuous length going down and up and across and down to the back eye. The winch would require a single hole for the winch handle is all... With the down force provided I wouldn't expect it to slip but come one with the strength of the stranded wire it should do it. The webbing straps have to much stretch (possibly). Ok time to get on with the day.... More thoughts to come from others I hope. Don't think its crazy to imaginer. There are always better or different mousetraps!

 

[smlobx]

I have always wondered why FWC chose to go this route when there are better options out there...

On our Hallmark we have the Torquelift Fastguns which literally take 2 minutes to attach and have never loosened.

 

[ntsqd]

Link got wonked-up, should be: http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Flatbed-Trailer-Products/Chain-Binders/Lever-Binder-5-16-x-3-8 which has this Working Load Limit: 5,400 lbs

I do not trust any of the spring loaded designs. I have no doubt that they can hold the load, I don't want any compliance in the binding system. Ever seen anything heavy on a flatbed truck trailer held down with anything other than chain and binders? Lower density loads get lots of 3" straps, but never anything heavy.

You asked for something different and I gave it to you. Don't like it then let's see what you come up with.

 

[smlobx]

Ntsqd if you are interested in some sort of binders let me suggest you look at something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Ratchet-Type-Chain-Load-Binder/dp/B003XS7SEW

The benefit of this over the one you showed is that this will allow almost infinite adjustment and given the very short distance between connection points his will give you a more secure mounting (if it will fit).
This system is what most of the guys who haul heavy equipment for us use (on a larger scale of course).

 

[ntsqd]

Some of the over-center type of binders have threaded adjustments too. I just didn't go looking long enough to find them. I didn't link those because of the their space claim.

Personally I don't mind the turn-buckles, but our camper is full time.

 

[SCUD]

I can't give personal experience with tying down the FWC (since mine is not here yet) but my plan is to use turnbuckles with lock nuts and CargoBuckle IMF18800 tie downs as back-up. Belt & suspenders approach. These tie-downs ratchet, manually lock, and will fit in tight confines.

Four of these have been used to transport a 950# Harley in a cargo trailer and in a pick-up bed for thousands of miles with no problems. Mine have the bolt-on second hook, but the stock ones can be bolted to your camper or the bed of your truck.

 

[longhorn1]

Haven't had any problems with our turnbuckles. Now that I have angle wedges in the front corners of the camper the front of the camper locks in like linking with the space station. I have 1-1/2" extruded insulation spacers wedged in each rear side. My camper is centered and I really don't have to make any adjustments with the turnbuckles. My camper can't move and I haven't noticed more than one that needs to be adjusted. Hardside campers are larger and designed to be secured outside with fast guns and other devises. I would be very careful using straps. If it was a safe consideration it would be an option. I want my camper secure for off road. Any bounce with straps would probably increase of damage to your camper. The truck (factory installed) tie-down doesn't have the weight capability that the bolts installed by FWC does. The problem with damaged eye bolts is related to older FWC. My 2 cents. jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app

 

[97grandby]

I've looked into adding these as I know drj runs them, but so far mine have never moved. But still a good idea as mine never comes on and off the truck. 316 Stainless Steel Marine 3/8'' x 6'' Turnbuckle JAW JAW Pulley Swivel Hoist https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGD8BLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SRQ3xbKPARWX6


1990 Ford F-250
1997 fwc grandby

 

[SCUD]

longhorn1,

"angle wedges in the front corners of the camper" pictures?

 

[4byr]

Thank you all for your ideas and the presentations. I agree the straps have some give and may not be the best but they sure are quick and easy. The fast guns are a bit too long for our internal application but I like them. The positive lock angle wedges appear to be an idea but initial alignment may be difficult. The ratcheting type hooks are a good idea but too long and need a lathe to turn them down but I like the ease of just locking them in and ratcheting them tight if space is open enough ( I am going to buy one to see if I can modify it). And the stainless turnbuckle with the cotter pin approach is interesting so they don't fall off and I am leaning towards that option with a quick release pin on one side so they can be disconnected easily.
The camper goes on and off regularly and I would like it quick without too much work. Some of you are quick in getting this done with turnbuckles and all with hooks and nut stops but I don't like too much work on my knees. Time and ease are subjective to each of us I know and as we age we can become more critical of others and what they believe is easy or a hassle. I am just one guy with my own ideas and enjoy discussing the way things can be done. There is always another mousetrap or way to do things and it is with that respect we should always enjoy our life and the differences.
With respect...
Thank you all

 

[DSD277]

Late to chime in here, but I used the Fastgun derringers on my Kestrel (Hawk) and Silverado last year[SIZE=12pt], and have recently change to a ’16 Colorado short bed and a Fleet. I have used the same basic Fastguns and Derringer setup. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]I am trying to do a write up on my Colorado/Fleet setup and the forkliftable riser and custom folding rear steps I made for it, but have been busy with other things. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]These are a couple pics of the Fastguns on the Colorado. The front left is very tight compared to the room on the full size trucks. The Hawk on a full size was super easy and quick to go on or off. I highly recommend them because I too have issues laying down to anchor the camper to the truck[/SIZE]

 

[longhorn1]

Here is a sketch of the 2 x 6 wedges that I place in the front bed of the truck, once I have the camper centered. The front 2x legs are longer. The ends of the legs and the face of the 2x that the camper slides into have Firestone roofing material glued to provide a cushion. I used Firestone 80-mil fleece back roofing.

Once the camper is centered I back in and the camper slides right in with the wedges. I think there is approximately 1/4"-1/2"+/- gap at the start of the wedge between the wedge and camper.

Before lowering the camper completely into the bed, I place a 12" x 12" piece of 1-1/2" extruded insulation as a spacer on both sides at the rear of the camper. The camper is locked in and can't move and I don't have to adjust my turnbuckles from the previous trip. The camper is also centered within 1/8".



I will try and get a photo when the camper is back off the truck.

jd

 

[jonb96150]

I've only had my FWC Grandby for a few weeks and have had turnbuckle issues. After an hour of rough dirt road I checked them and they had all come completely loose, one lost on the road somewhere, and one lying on the truck bed. Camper drifted 4" backward and 4' sideways. This was with jam nuts and lockwashers on the RH thread of the turnbuckles.

Ordered a rubber bed mat hoping it will help. And I think I'm going to safety wire them so they can't rotate loose. I may end up using the exterior Happijac mount points that came with the truck in addition to the typical internal turnbuckles that seem to be on every FWC I see around here. I can't recall seeing an FWC with the external tiedowns. Is there a reason for that?