Tires- again

brett13

brett13

Lovecock
Joined
Dec 10, 2006
Messages
1,026
We haven't had a good tire thread in a while and I'll be needing a new set soon, soooo...

Here is my dilemma- I have the stock BFG Rugged Trails, D-rated, on my 07 Tundra. Nice on the highway, but terrible for everything else. I'd really like to upgrade to the BFG T/A KOs, but in the size I want they only come E-rated. Now, my rig fully loaded doesn't weigh more than 7,500#. Each D-rated tire hands 2,600# for over 10k total (evenly distributed). Even if somehow 2/3 of the weight hit the rear, they are still under the load limit (my rig carries the weight 50/50 loaded, I've weighed it).

I'm thinking E tires are overkill. Why would I need another 3000+lbs of carrying capacity? What am I missing?
 
Wow, that's pretty amazing. Have you checked the BFG web site, or just the local tire dealers (I'm betting on the former). What's the tire size?

At any rate, the E rated will have a little stiffer side wall, so you may want to run a little lower air pressure to get the same ride as the D rated. On the plus side, you'll have extra sidewall protection.:thumb:

I've been reading good things about the Nitto Terra Grappler and the Good Year Wrangler SilentArmore tires. I had terrible luck with the Wrangler tires that came stock on my '99 truck, but they weren't called "SilentArmore" back then.
 
max load with max air pressure the tire can handle. May not be what the rim can handle.

Adjust the pressure for the load you have at the time. Like what was said lower the pressure.
 
Rim rating question.

max load with max air pressure the tire can handle. May not be what the rim can handle.

Adjust the pressure for the load you have at the time. Like what was said lower the pressure.

I know there are different types of valve stems for D and E rated tires and that rims have a stamp for their size and some letters at the end (i.e. 16X7 JJ). Do the letter(s) at the end of the size indicate max tire pressure and/or max load the rim will safely handle? If so does someone know the codes or have a link explaining the codes?
 
(Example wheel size designation)
16x7JJ
16 — Rim diameter in inches.
7 — Rim width in inches.
JJ — Rim contour designation, normal shape of standard tires. (not a wierd shape or a split rim design)

You have a Toyota and it is a alloy rim. You will be fine with the BFG All-Terrian KO. Depends what width.

There is a new valve stem out that is a cross of rubber and metal...Looks pretty good.

Here is BFG spec page.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs/all-terrain-t-a-ko/44.html
 
Rim rating question part 2.

Okay, so the letters following the rim size indicate the contour of the bead?

You said in part
max load with max air pressure the tire can handle. May not be what the rim can handle.

What may limit what the rim can handle, (other than putting on too wide or too narrow a tire for a given rim width) and how may that be known?

The reason I ask this is that you seem to be VERY knowledgeable and I want to learn. Provided the rim size is appropriate for the tire size I don't see how a wheel rim could be the weak link in a wheel/tire combination unless it's related to the total weight the rim can carry.
 
Yes wheels have different design criteria just like tires. There is a safety range that a tire can have certain wheel width mounted to. Four wheelers push the limits to have a skinnier wheel width to help the tire from loosing air and popping a bead at low tire pressure. The tire specifications will give you that wheel width range.

Load capacity and pressure really comes into play on trailer tires. High loads and high pressure. Most of the time at the tires maximum pressure. You will see more wheels giving you max pressure specifications to properly match tire and wheel combinations.

Most all your tire stores have these charts and specifications and can help you. “Most” tire shops will not mount and balance combinations that is listed as unsafe.

There are some workers at these tire places that will put in the maximum pressure as stated on the sidewall and send you on your way. If you have factory size tires go by the door tag or glove box book for pressure recommendations.

If you are changing tire size then you should determine the proper air pressure for your load. Do this on a cool morning and when the tires are not hot. Sidewall reads ## PSI Cold. Vechical facing a flat straight surface, put a chalk line across the tires. Drive straight enough that the chalk is starting to wear off, couple hundred feet?

Look at the how the chalk is wearing off. Wearing off in the middle, too much pressure. Wearing off on the outside, too little pressure. Re adjust pressure, place new chalk line and try it again. Works best if you start with an over inflated tire and let air out as you go.

Once you have the pressure for empty and loaded camper, record them. These are the values for you new non stock wheel and tire combination.
 
I'm leaning towards the Michelin LTX AT2's. The the blocky shoulders of the BFG's are going to be really noisy when cruising at 75 with no load. Someone told me the Mich's are a tad softer too, which would be good since I'm going to have to get the E-rates ones for 33s. Anyone have experience with these Michelins? I have the LTX AT in a P tire on the Landcruiser and I like them a lot, but different application, different tire (AT vs AT2) and only 4 ply.
 
I Favor

Toyos, but decided to put BFG KOs on the new Toyota, but because of the down turn in the truck bis., nobody is making any parts, and I have to wait 5 wks. to get a set of wheels.
 
new shoes

Just an update-

I put E-rated Michelin LTX AT2's on the Tundra on Friday. I was afraid E tires would be way too stiff and feel like concrete, but I love these new shoes! Honestly, they don't feel like they make the ride any harder than the crappy stock rugged trails (P rated) and they look good.

Also traded up to 275/70/18 from 275/65. These tires are 1.3" taller than the stock tire and I expected about .6" of lift from them. Instead the truck is a full 7/8" taller. I suppose the stiffer tire doesn't flex as much as the soft stock ones, giving it more practical height. I like it!

Will be putting on shackles and Bilstein adjustable shocks on the front this week. That ought to lift her another 3/4" for a total lift of about 1.5"- which is almost exactly what I wanted.
 
I've put enough miles on my Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo's now to give them a review. I love them. I've taken two trips up to the snow and they feel like they're glued to the road even when driving on ice. We've had a very wet february and they've never come close to hydroplaning, and as some of you can attest, I don't drive very conservatively.

268/70 LT E

Not enough mileage on them yet to say how they'll wear but I'd buy them again in a heartbeat. I didnt' like my Michelins.
 
Brett,
I'm also running "E" rated tires (BFG A/T's) for the first time too and didn not notice much of a difference either. I like the extra sense of security although I'm not sure they are really necessary on my set up.
 
Brett,
What did you donate for the new kickers?

Way more than I expected. About $1250 out the door with road hazard at my local Discount Tire.
 
I'm 7K into a set of toyo Open Country A/T 265/75/16 6-plys and I can say that I really like these tires and what they did for the ride of my truck/Hawk combo compared to the softer 4-ply Michelins I was running previously. (bought before I knew I was buying a camper)

$750 for the set of 4 6- plys.

Far less "bounce"...both on those freeway sections of concrete and also when entering parking lots/washouts/dips/etc. I was having to CREEP over anything /everything with the Michelins or they would compress with the shocks and cause the Superspring front bolts to rack on the frame. (fully loaded FWC) With the Toyos I can still hear the bolt occasionally rack the frame...but this phenom usually only happens when the WIFE is driving...*Mario* that she is... (shhh...I didn't say that....)

Either way...@ 7K so far and no noticeable wear I suspect I'll get far more than the 18K I got out of the Mic's before trashing them before Winter because I KNEW I'd be in the ditch come the first icy snowfall. (DLN probably knows the gig...you DON'T drive on crap tires in Snow Country if you value your truck....even if you have to buy a new set EVERY YEAR...LOL)

And up har in thum hilz....I have run all sorts of tires and the most I've ever got out of a set was 35K.....and that was pushing it! Something about all them turns, i surspect......


happy motoring, all.....

mtn
 
I would have gone with a 6 ply if I could find it. In 275/70/R18 you only find E rated (10plies). Glad you like 'em!
 
Just an update-

Also traded up to 275/70/18 from 275/65. These tires are 1.3" taller than the stock tire and I expected about .6" of lift from them. Instead the truck is a full 7/8" taller. I suppose the stiffer tire doesn't flex as much as the soft stock ones, giving it more practical height. I like it!


I did about the same upsize on my Tundra. Even though it's not a lot,your speedometer is going to be off a couple of mph at 60-70 mph. Your odometer will also be off. I calculated about 6% on mine compared to mileage measured with GPS.
 
I did about the same upsize on my Tundra. Even though it's not a lot,your speedometer is going to be off a couple of mph at 60-70 mph. Your odometer will also be off. I calculated about 6% on mine compared to mileage measured with GPS.
While I'm aware of that, I didn't think to use the GPS to calibrate the difference. Very good idea! Thanks.
 
When I used my GPS to calibrate the MPH diff I remembered what my 1rst jump instructor (an old brown boot army MSgt) told me.
 
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